Hey guys,

 

I've run my MX5 with a welded diff for over a year now. I love it, it makes the car so much better handling in every area and situation in my opinion.

 

Now it comes to the 300... I've had it sideways a couple of times now, initiation is good, keeping it is less easy than I'd like, and exit is f**king diabolical.

 

Mine is the manual LWB TT, so it has the 3.7 VLSD as standard. When leaving a drift it acts like an open diff, which is every bit as dangerous as an open diff. I'm seriously considering welding it unless you insanely knowledgeable people can back up my fears.

 

The drivetrain can handle it effortlessly, as can the quality of my welder's work. I have no worries of tyres or parking or general driving as this is what I'm used to.

 

I have the HICAS system (obviously), I'm kinda getting used to it, it's handy when parking, and I don't like the idea of removing it or unplugging the fuse, or spending several hundred pounds on a delete kit.

 

TL;DR: THE POINT: Will the HICAS system, actuators, arms and bushes shit itself if I weld the diff. It obviously puts a lot of strain on this area, and the last thing I want is the rear wheels suddenly creating 5 unexpected degrees of Toe.

 

If you guys say it'll be fine, it will be welded as soon as I get it on the road. If the opinions suggest that HICAS (or something I've overlooked) will cause this to endanger the car or it's systems, then I shall wait and modify it accordingly prior to obtaining my beloved diffle-skiffle.

 

Thanks guys

 

- Alex

I should explain BACK on the road: I have taken it off the road to prep it while my MX5 is waiting to be sold.

Hicas would not even be active when parking it only activates over a certain speed for high speed manoeuvring. Hiscas is 4 wheel steering nothing to do with the diff.

As above, hicas isn't related to the diff. Unless it's faulty it shouldn't be operating out of a certain speed range.

 

The vicious diff may well be your problem and therefore ways round that. I would recommend you speak to sy-gt and cowpatmatt, the later is a semi pro drifter who drives a z32. If there's cosiderations to be made he's likely done it.

I know that the diff and hicas system is separate, but they are connected to the same wheels. A welder will put a lot of strain on the hicas which I was told can be fragile.

 

It's probably not an issue, but I thought I'd ask just in case. A z32 that's been built to drift will almost definitely have a hicas delete.

I don't understand why an alteration to the diff would have any effect on the rear wheel steering...?

I know that the diff and hicas system is separate, but they are connected to the same wheels. A welder will put a lot of strain on the hicas which I was told can be fragile.

 

It's probably not an issue, but I thought I'd ask just in case. A z32 that's been built to drift will almost definitely have a hicas delete.

 

Tbh mate it will be far more predictable and easier to control without bloody hicas.

Tbh mate it will be far more predictable and easier to control without bloody hicas.

Have to agree there! Since removing my hicas (which was working fine), the car has felt so much better at speed!

If u drifting it with the hicas kicking in, would the rear wheels not be steering the backend back in

Like if u drift a right hander the back goes out to the left u opposite lock to the left but the back wheels are turning right

If u get my drift

Cool. The diff will be welded asap and eventually I'll buy a HICAS delete bar if I don't get along with it :)

 

Thanks guys :)

I have put a switch into the power steering reservoir fluid level circuit, and wired it into a rocker switch on the dash. I can turn my HICAS on and off from corner to corner. Wasn't hard to do, tell it it's run out of fluid and it locks the HICAS (so long as the suspension arms and bushes are still firm) you have a regular locked back end. I like HICAS for driving fast, for driving sideways I flick the switch and drifting is then in easy mode (easier).

That is absolute genius! Any chance of a quick guide as to which wires the switch connects to? :)

Haha it was Yowsers Idea. I made a meal of it but it wasn't complicated, I worked it out with a multimeter and sliding the float up and down.

 

I think all it took was bridging the 2 wires that go into/out of the pot with a massive loop going into the car. But it even lights up the HICAS light as if it was designed to be done :-)

 

Ill pm you some stuff on it in the next few days.

Stand by for a Tom Wilson wiring diagram lol!

 

Not exactly the front of a Haynes manual but its done on a phone! Think thats all it took.

 

Float down outputs 12v

That's a lovely idea. Great way to decide if you want HICAS or not there's only one problem.

The main cause for concerns with it is it's broken. No amount of disabling it's hydrolics is going to fix the rice pudding that is supposed to be your hicas bushes. By all means delete it, I will be, just realise that the car has had 20+ years of stress on all those components. It's be tired after all those years lugging all that weight, Infact I am tired, I need a lye in someday.

Thanks, a switch to bridge the two wires seems easy enough :)