Can someone list on here please list exactly what is needed to convert a tt rear end to an na rear end. I.E. Do i need the whole prop ect ect. and is it a major job?

what im thinking is if also this gets rid of the hicas aswell? So im thinking of getting a rear end with hopefully all the bits i need then i can srtip it down i n the spring have a little hamarite jobby. and replace all the bushes ect before fitting. I dont do long journeys in my zed so a little loss in the higher gear range will be a little gain in the lower gears yes? Thanks now for all your wise wissdon on this.

You need the whole rear assembly, the subframe is different to accommodate the diff, they arnt interchangeable. The half shafts and hubs are also different. There are still arms where the hicas was they are just fixed, much like a lock out bar. Your props haft will need alteration as well. Or you will need the correct whole na prop. The speedo will read wrong also.

You need the whole rear assembly, the subframe is different to accommodate the diff, they arnt interchangeable. The half shafts and hubs are also different. There are still arms where the hicas was they are just fixed, much like a lock out bar. Your props haft will need alteration as well. Or you will need the correct whole na prop. The speedo will read wrong also.[/quote]

 

please can you explane whats needed to do becaues i thought all i need was? and heres my list please add if ive left something out.

N.A subframe.

N.A diff

All wishbone arms

wheel hubs inc bearings

half sharts (Diff to wheel shafts)

Rear half of prop and the YOLK ( to bolt up to the front half of my TT PROP.

and relivant nuts and bolts.

NA pump and braket

na pas pot.

the last two not essentail but will need to fininish of job correctly.and i dont know what i why the speedo will be out. should i get the speedo also out of an na to finish the job or do i need something esle?

The flange that bolts the diff and prop up are different so not compatible, either use a full na prop for your either manual or auto box. Or have a one piece prop made.

The diff ratio changes the speedo reading as the gear box is rotating quicker, it is the speed sensor on the box that gives the reading to the speedo, so changing the speedo will have no effect. Sadly the na and tt speed sensors arnt interchangeable either.

I'm not sure how people have got round this.

It's worth noting at any given speed you will be at higher revs due to the lower ratio.

The flange that bolts the diff and prop up are different so not compatible, either use a full na prop for your either manual or auto box. Or have a one piece prop made.

The diff ratio changes the speedo reading as the gear box is rotating quicker, it is the speed sensor on the box that gives the reading to the speedo, so changing the speedo will have no effect. Sadly the na and tt speed sensors arnt interchangeable either.

I'm not sure how people have got round this.

It's worth noting at any given speed you will be at higher revs due to the lower ratio.

 

 

 

this is true to a point .. Long as u have the Yoke that comes off the Auto NA Prop it can be swapped over on to the Existing TT front half

so one way or another u can sort your prop shaft

 

and regarding the speedo .. u can re-calibrate the Needed by the adjustment screw on the pcb board of the speedo its self

Not hard to do

 

your RPM will be around 200>300rpm high @ 70mph giving you a Max speed around 165>170 depending on your rev limit set

 

1sec quicker 0>60mph .. all ways closer to your power band too

Edited November 25, 201312 yr by MarkDerby

were is this yolk at the diff end or in the middle what r we to look for. this is an education for everone whos thinking of doing this.? thanks

Yoke ... are the Joints of the propshaft ... all so known as Spiders UJ Joints load others

 

the Part u need is once half of the Yoke Flange that bolted on to the center front half of the propshaft where the center bearing sits

this comes off with a 27mm Nut so the Bearing and Yoke flange can be reused in the new setup

N.A sub frame.

N.A diff

All wishbone & arms

wheel hubs inc bearings

half shafts (Diff to wheel shafts)

Rear half of prop and the front Yoke flange ( to bolt up to the front half of TT PROP )

fitting nuts and bolts.

NA pump and bracket

NA pas pot

 

 

thats your complete list of items needed to do a conversion

cheers mate

Just completing mine, would have been good to have a list...

Just completing mine, would have been good to have a list...

 

You had chance yet to test it yet? has it all gone to plan? what would you have done differently if atall. im intrested in all your views that have done this conversion. did you do or did you help, any pitfalls i should know about.cheers.

well got all the bits lined up and ready to go soonish before exmas ,now just got to work out how much weight is this little lot is on a 4x5 pallet?

N.A subframe.

N.A diff

All wishbone arms

wheel hubs inc bearings

half sharts (Diff to wheel shafts)

Rear half of prop and the YOLK ( to bolt up to the front half of my TT PROP.

and relivant nuts and bolts.

NA pump and braket

na pas pot.

what do you recon around the 150 160 kilo / just need a rough guilde for a courior?

Just completing mine, would have been good to have a list...

 

Be interested to see how it effects your quater miles.

You had chance yet to test it yet? has it all gone to plan? what would you have done differently if atall. im intrested in all your views that have done this conversion. did you do or did you help, any pitfalls i should know about.cheers.

 

Just got to putting the diff on and stripped a thread so that's been a pain. you can see from the picture below that there are no studs in the back of the diff housing.

 

 

As for pit falls, I guess it depends on how indepth you are going and how complete the NA kit of parts is. I've changed/cleaned/painted everthing I can. Cost is the main issue. I had one poor bearing so decided to replace them both, these cost £135 each. The grease seal between the knuckle needs to be shipped from Japan as I did not get any. Removing the subframe bushes is as bad a job as everybody says. Found a dremel with bendy neck worked well.

 

 

Only thing I would have liked to do is service the diff which i haven't been able to do but is on my list. oh, and take photos of the Drums as its a lot quicket the look back at than working it out from scratch.

 

I'll put more picks up if i remember to ever take some.....:thumbup:

Be interested to see how it effects your quater miles.

 

Yes, will be very interesting to see. Should the Brighton Speed Trials be on in 2014, i'll be there trying to beat my 13.52 from 2011. I hear it should be a second quicker so should put me up there with the Audi R8s.

Just got to putting the diff on and stripped a thread so that's been a pain. you can see from the picture below that there are no studs in the back of the diff housing.

 

 

As for pit falls, I guess it depends on how indepth you are going and how complete the NA kit of parts is. I've changed/cleaned/painted everthing I can. Cost is the main issue. I had one poor bearing so decided to replace them both, these cost £135 each. The grease seal between the knuckle needs to be shipped from Japan as I did not get any. Removing the subframe bushes is as bad a job as everybody says. Found a dremel with bendy neck worked well.

 

 

Only thing I would have liked to do is service the diff which i haven't been able to do but is on my list. oh, and take photos of the Drums as its a lot quicket the look back at than working it out from scratch.

 

I'll put more picks up if i remember to ever take some.....:thumbup:

 

can you explane a bit more for me the thicko who cant see what pics you have up. You say you had a poor bearing and had to get from japan? what bearing is this ?did you buy your rear end in bits then assemble or was the bearing just shot ?

rear end was in lots of pieces so i did not know if i was missing anything. It was the Wheel Bearings that I replaced. If yours in in once piece, then your seals will be fitted between the knuckle and the bearing housing so you won't have a problem.

ok makes sence now. looking forward in seeing your times as well as how you feel it works and not just the times but also the torque power band comming in earlyer>