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Any way to determine if failing master or slave clutch cylinder

The system has been bled more times than I've had hot dinners and it's still reacting like I've got air inside when warm (not even hot), the clutch almost disengages or has twice. Also when cold the pedal is right on the floor to disengage.

 

Yes, it's been bled normally, power bled, had a 300 pro bleed it, front of car raised and not raised etc etc, one time I alternated between top and bottom 6+ times with loads of fluid.

 

I can only assume one of the boosters is failing... there is no fluid leaking that I can see. Any idea how to work out which one... And yes, they were both replaced already, but about 5-6 years ago maybe longer?

 

If it's the slave I'm tempted to get the RPS upraded version, dunno how much that is though.

 

Jez.

Featured Replies

Jez, on a few US spec cars (also on one of my cars) the original clutch lines have been bypassed by a single line that runs straight from the master cylinder to the rubber hose that connects to the slave cylinder..

I'm not sure if it was a recall on US-specs or why they did it, but I never had any problems bleeding the system and it works great (I also have an upgraded clutch).

 

It might be something worth to try out for you as well ?

 

-Eric

Thanks for that...

 

I'll have to get someone to take a look.

 

Hows tricks over there!

 

Jez.

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