Hello,

 

I hope You guys understand what i mean...

 

So i got strange problem with my car, when i rev it really high (no matters i drive or on neutral) one (or more) of my cylinders stops working for a while. After few moments everything back to normal.

For example, i accelerating hard on 2nd gear, put 3 and no power, engine work like tractor.

The same thing is when my car standing somwere, i rev it to red line and then its start work really bad for a few moments.

 

No air leaks, i check 2 fuel p. regulators, i install new fuel lines, i got series 2 PTU (check 2 of them)...

 

Help pls?

Edited September 7, 201312 yr by Draxan

Hello,

 

I hope You guys understand what i mean...

 

So i got strange problem with my car, when i rev it really high (no matters i drive or on neutral) one (or more) of my cylinders stops working for a while. After few moments everything back to normal.

For example, i accelerating hard on 2nd gear, put 3 and no power, engine work like tractor.

The same thing is when my car standing somwere, i rev it to red line and then its start work really bad for a few moments.

 

No air leaks, i check 2 fuel p. regulators, i install new fuel lines, i got series 2 PTU (check 2 of them)...

 

Help pls?

Edited September 7, 201312 yr by Draxan

might be a simple fix but try your spark plugs..might be new but gaping might be off or they might be the wrong kind...the so called uprated plugs usually hinder running or performance...genaral rule air fuel spark..if youve checkd air n fuel then the sparks the problem..

check fuel pressure should be 40-45psi

check air unplug maf...youll know if thats the problem

check spark unplug spark plug n turn the cas,,spark plugs will spark but somestime itll spark but n heres the killer youll have the "uprated" sparkplugs n thats the problem

get the ngk specifik to the engine

hope that helps

might be a simple fix but try your spark plugs..might be new but gaping might be off or they might be the wrong kind...the so called uprated plugs usually hinder running or performance...genaral rule air fuel spark..if youve checkd air n fuel then the sparks the problem..

check fuel pressure should be 40-45psi

check air unplug maf...youll know if thats the problem

check spark unplug spark plug n turn the cas,,spark plugs will spark but somestime itll spark but n heres the killer youll have the "uprated" sparkplugs n thats the problem

get the ngk specifik to the engine

hope that helps

I got this problem on irudium plugs, and now on normal (cold) ones, allready check it on diffrent gaps ( 0.7 , 0.9 and 0.5 now ) , no diffrence :/ .

I used Tomei and stoc fuel preassure regulators, nothing.

I got this problem on irudium plugs, and now on normal (cold) ones, allready check it on diffrent gaps ( 0.7 , 0.9 and 0.5 now ) , no diffrence :/ .

I used Tomei and stoc fuel preassure regulators, nothing.

mm wierd one the u checkd blow by n compression

mm wierd one the u checkd blow by n compression

just re read

this is a guess n im sure somone will come in if im really off the mark but have u checked ur coil packs

they could work fine but as you drive and engine vibrates could knock a faulty wire or bad connection

just re read

this is a guess n im sure somone will come in if im really off the mark but have u checked ur coil packs

they could work fine but as you drive and engine vibrates could knock a faulty wire or bad connection

I was gonna suggest that it could be old coil packs breaking down

I was gonna suggest that it could be old coil packs breaking down

Plug gaps should be 1.1mm, so you may be having a problem with the spark, but more likely to be a dodgy wire on one of the coil pack connectors.

 

With the series 2 ptu, did ou hard wire it or use the harness that came with it?

Have you got another ECU to try, you may not have a problem with the coil pack plugs directly but with how the ecu is interpreting the signal.

Plug gaps should be 1.1mm, so you may be having a problem with the spark, but more likely to be a dodgy wire on one of the coil pack connectors.

 

With the series 2 ptu, did ou hard wire it or use the harness that came with it?

Have you got another ECU to try, you may not have a problem with the coil pack plugs directly but with how the ecu is interpreting the signal.

might be a simple fix but try your spark plugs..might be new but gaping might be off or they might be the wrong kind...the so called uprated plugs usually hinder running or performance...genaral rule air fuel spark..if youve checkd air n fuel then the sparks the problem..

check fuel pressure should be 40-45psi

check air unplug maf...youll know if thats the problem

check spark unplug spark plug n turn the cas,,spark plugs will spark but somestime itll spark but n heres the killer youll have the "uprated" sparkplugs n thats the problem

get the ngk specifik to the engine

hope that helps

 

He 110% does NOT want the stock grade 6 platinums in his engine :blink:

 

Plug gaps should be 1.1mm, so you may be having a problem with the spark, but more likely to be a dodgy wire on one of the coil pack connectors.

 

With the series 2 ptu, did ou hard wire it or use the harness that came with it?

Have you got another ECU to try, you may not have a problem with the coil pack plugs directly but with how the ecu is interpreting the signal.

 

Plug gaps need to be the largest possible without the spark being blown out under load in modified applications. Manufacturer's stock values/recommendations don't apply :)

 

Draxan, your issue is an odd one, and one that didn't occur whilst on the dyno, so it's quite difficult to diagnose.

 

Have you been able to determine which cylinder has the issue, and is it the same every time? I don't recommend bouncing your car off the limiter, but it will be necessary in this case.

 

When it drops a cylinder, quickly remove the coil pack connectors one-by-one (no change in engine note means that particular cylinder isn't firing). Once you have found out which cylinder is affected, cause the misfire to happen again and check to see if the injector is firing (long flat-head screwdriver on the injector with the handle pressed against your ear). If it is, and if you can confirm which cylinders are not affected, swap a coil pack from a known good cylinder. If the problem changes to a good cylinder, replace the coil pack. If the problem stays with the same cylinder, inspect the wiring. Report your findings back on here and contact me on Facebook/email/text if required :)

might be a simple fix but try your spark plugs..might be new but gaping might be off or they might be the wrong kind...the so called uprated plugs usually hinder running or performance...genaral rule air fuel spark..if youve checkd air n fuel then the sparks the problem..

check fuel pressure should be 40-45psi

check air unplug maf...youll know if thats the problem

check spark unplug spark plug n turn the cas,,spark plugs will spark but somestime itll spark but n heres the killer youll have the "uprated" sparkplugs n thats the problem

get the ngk specifik to the engine

hope that helps

 

He 110% does NOT want the stock grade 6 platinums in his engine :blink:

 

Plug gaps should be 1.1mm, so you may be having a problem with the spark, but more likely to be a dodgy wire on one of the coil pack connectors.

 

With the series 2 ptu, did ou hard wire it or use the harness that came with it?

Have you got another ECU to try, you may not have a problem with the coil pack plugs directly but with how the ecu is interpreting the signal.

 

Plug gaps need to be the largest possible without the spark being blown out under load in modified applications. Manufacturer's stock values/recommendations don't apply :)

 

Draxan, your issue is an odd one, and one that didn't occur whilst on the dyno, so it's quite difficult to diagnose.

 

Have you been able to determine which cylinder has the issue, and is it the same every time? I don't recommend bouncing your car off the limiter, but it will be necessary in this case.

 

When it drops a cylinder, quickly remove the coil pack connectors one-by-one (no change in engine note means that particular cylinder isn't firing). Once you have found out which cylinder is affected, cause the misfire to happen again and check to see if the injector is firing (long flat-head screwdriver on the injector with the handle pressed against your ear). If it is, and if you can confirm which cylinders are not affected, swap a coil pack from a known good cylinder. If the problem changes to a good cylinder, replace the coil pack. If the problem stays with the same cylinder, inspect the wiring. Report your findings back on here and contact me on Facebook/email/text if required :)

I was gonna suggest that it could be old coil packs breaking down

 

hmm ok, so i need a 100% good set to swap them for a tests, any volunteers :) ;)

 

With the series 2 ptu, did ou hard wire it or use the harness that came with it?

 

I solder all wires : https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZAiqK7mDldqqZKVpJlxocdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

 

I don't recommend bouncing your car off the limiter, but it will be necessary in this case.

When it drops a cylinder, quickly remove the coil pack connectors one-by-one (no change in engine note means that particular cylinder isn't firing)

 

Ok I try, but thats sound really hard :/ . I think my neighbors will love me :P

Hello,

 

I hope You guys understand what i mean...

 

So i got strange problem with my car, when i rev it really high (no matters i drive or on neutral) one (or more) of my cylinders stops working for a while. After few moments everything back to normal.

For example, i accelerating hard on 2nd gear, put 3 and no power, engine work like tractor.

The same thing is when my car standing somwere, i rev it to red line and then its start work really bad for a few moments.

 

No air leaks, i check 2 fuel p. regulators, i install new fuel lines, i got series 2 PTU (check 2 of them)...

 

Help pls?

 

I had this problem as well took me ages to get to the bottom of it

Your problem is the oil is not getting out of the hydrauilic lifters quick enough and its causing valve lag

you need a different oil ie drop to a 5/30 if your running a heavier oil it needs to be synthetic if that dosent solve the problem its new lifters

as your engine is loosing compression if you were quick enough to turn it of and on you will notice it turns over missing compression on one piston

 

took me 2 months to solve this one on mine as could work it out as it ran perfect but now i know the symptoms and solution

 

if you need some help give a call at shop 01902 798779

Hmm thats interesting. I use Valvoline 5w50, so now im not sure is ok or not :P ;) .

My other idea is something is wrong with my ECU, and i was thinking about borrow other one (socketed) and test for any changes.

Hmm thats interesting. I use Valvoline 5w50, so now im not sure is ok or not :P ;) .

My other idea is something is wrong with my ECU, and i was thinking about borrow other one (socketed) and test for any changes.

 

Its not an electrical fault 5/50w is to thick at 100 degrees c its around 30% thicker than a 5/40w that's a thick oil trying to get out of a small hole in a lifter that has a weak spring due to age So put a good 5/30 in valvloine is a great oil but 50 is to thick

so drop the oil down to a really good synthetic that's a lot thinner and see if that cures it change oil filter as well

if that dosent solve it then its new lifters its such a bizarre problem and identical to mine was

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valvoline-Synpower-Fully-Synthetic-5W30-Engine-Oil-4-Litre-/300637655194?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item45ff66909a - oil like this is good enough?

As Noz suggests, I would also suggest a wiring breakdown somewhere. It'll be either the injector pulse connector (had a similar issue on my LWB on Wed with it having green oxidisation on one pin)...or one of the coil pack connections rather than a physical coil pack. My advice would be pull each connector (injector and coil pack) and give them a clean/Scratch with a precision driver and spray with Electrical contact cleaner...

 

Following this I'd say to get it on a Conzult and set the TPS, Idle screw and CAS up against the timing (you can also look at the drop test a few times to compare cylinders)..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valvoline-Synpower-Fully-Synthetic-5W30-Engine-Oil-4-Litre-/300637655194?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item45ff66909a - oil like this is good enough?

 

perfect

As Noz suggests, I would also suggest a wiring breakdown somewhere. It'll be either the injector pulse connector (had a similar issue on my LWB on Wed with it having green oxidisation on one pin)...or one of the coil pack connections rather than a physical coil pack. My advice would be pull each connector (injector and coil pack) and give them a clean/Scratch with a precision driver and spray with Electrical contact cleaner...

 

Following this I'd say to get it on a Conzult and set the TPS, Idle screw and CAS up against the timing (you can also look at the drop test a few times to compare cylinders)..

 

It not dropping any spark thats what took me so long to work this out its dropping physical compression due to valve not closing properly due to the liffter going weak from shock of the rev limiter explosion

it will only happen if you hit the rev limiter even if you set it at 4500rpm as i did on my link ecu as a test so it is a hydraulic issue

The "funny" thing is my friend from Poland got the same problem with dieing cylinders, and hes using the same oil as me. So there is a big chance that oil is a problem in this old engines.

yes same problem is in my zed so maybe this oil must be different