ok i have put a few threads up about car drifting to the left been aligned its all stop on but still goes to the left all the bushings look fine there is no clunks the calipers and not rubbing wheels spin free then jacked up the guy at the garage i use say it could be a rack issue and are going to disconnet the power steering pump belt so there is no power steering and drive it and see if it still pulls. if this dont work what else is there to change

Has it been in an accident at any point?

no that i no if it had the aligment would be way out and not in spec like it is

have they done the alignment properly with the HICAS centralised?

have they done the alignment properly with the HICAS centralised?

 

is there a proper way to do it or somthings ? how do you centralise the hicas does it not centre its self anyhow ?

try this it might offer some help..

 

page 36 onward..

 

http://stadzport.com/FSM/ST_Steering.pdf

check rack retainer adjustment

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/st/006.gif

 

check the steering angle sensor ( column + wheel are aligned properly and no faults with sensor)

check the end stop adjustment on the rear rack.

how do you check the steering wheel sensor i take it its for hicas so i knows when to move ?

the diagnostic is in the manual.

 

Also, when did this start? just suddenly or after some maintenance?

got the car like this i was thnking it was tracking but its not been tracked now for the forth time and its all ways the same

you say 'tracked'

 

but was it aligned? tracking can just be toe settings either front/rear or both.

 

you need 4-wheel alignment

yes 4 wheel aligment on a hunter manchine there the best out there

its a decent system providing its operated properly, yes

 

if we consider the car is alighned properly and 'straight' then the care should run true, there must be somehting happening when the car is moving which makes me think the angle sensor is out and its energising the HICAS solenoid even when the car is 'straight' it would be an interesting test if it still did it with the HICAS solenoids unplugged.

 

also check for broken springs if you havent already done so, and worn balljoints. it wouldnt be the first time ive watched someone align a car with the balljoints flapping about in the wind!

all joints are fine and car is sitting rite not lower on one corner .dont i need to unplug the hicas wire on the hicas ecu next to the main ecu in the foot well or is it under the bonnet in th engine bay were i need to disconect it

all joints are fine and car is sitting rite not lower on one corner .dont i need to unplug the hicas wire on the hicas ecu next to the main ecu in the foot well or is it under the bonnet in th engine bay were i need to disconect it

 

eh?

was told to unplug the wire from the hicas ecu to stop the hicas working so i can drive it to see if it still pulls

ye sorry i didnt understand.

 

whatever way you choose to disable it is fine. as long as it's de energised (assuming the shuttle in the solenoid isnt physically jammed or passing) the HICAS rack should default to its centre under spring tension.

 

if you run through the HICAS diagnostic procedure, im sure one of the steps checks that the steering angle sensor is centered, but i would need to read the manual to check. it may just be a check to ensure it registers a signal off the straight position. if the column or wheel have been off at some point, or if it's been tracked with out the rack and wheel being centred then it's a possibility.

could i just clamp the hoses at the hicas rack that would stop the fluid moving the rack and maybe clap the hicas rack in place to then drive it see what happends ? unless you have a better way of doing things

i wouldnt recommend doing that. not only do you risk damaging the HP hoses, you may 'trap' pressure on on side which would compound the problem or fail to shut the pipe off completely giving an unconclusive test.

 

disconnect the HICAS unit or solenoids electrically - which is by far the easiest and most sensible solution

 

if it still pulls, whip off th PAS belt and drive it. sure the steering will be a bit heavier, but at least that way you can be sure there is no hydraulic pressure acting on the HICAS rack.

Have you checked your tyres to make sure non of them are deformed? Tyre pressures are all good?

i wouldnt recommend doing that. not only do you risk damaging the HP hoses, you may 'trap' pressure on on side which would compound the problem or fail to shut the pipe off completely giving an unconclusive test.

 

disconnect the HICAS unit or solenoids electrically - which is by far the easiest and most sensible solution

 

if it still pulls, whip off th PAS belt and drive it. sure the steering will be a bit heavier, but at least that way you can be sure there is no hydraulic pressure acting on the HICAS rack.

 

ok will try this and report back

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Have you checked your tyres to make sure non of them are deformed? Tyre pressures are all good?

 

tyres are all good and pressures are stop on

a guy i knew had an issue with car pulling to one side years ago. i looked at his car for him and was puzzled, then as i was putting the wheels back on, i realiesd he had a 195/50/15 on one side and a 195/45/15 on the other.

 

lol

there all the correct size am hoping its the hicas causing this prob can just delete it then if i remove the pas belt will that kill the power to both front and rear steering racks

yes, there is only one pump.

as said, the steering will be heavy but it will be driveable enough to know whether its pulling to one side or not.

yes, there is only one pump.

as said, the steering will be heavy but it will be driveable enough to know whether its pulling to one side or not.

 

the car is at the garage soon as i get it back will try thay are trying to find out why its pulling but be be fair that said will have a little look but dont seem very intrested in tryimg to find the issue

i dont understand. who isnt interested? you or the garage?