trying to fit new rear inner tie rods the big nut on the left just turn the whole thing you need to hold the the thread inside some how but no room for spanner ?

You need to take the gaitor off the other side and put a spanner on that one, give the spanner on the one you want to undo a hard rap and it will come undone.

Jeff TT

You need to take the gaitor off the other side and put a spanner on that one, give the spanner on the one you want to undo a hard rap and it will come undone.

Jeff TT

 

so the bar goes rite thro to the other one then i see will try that now

so the bar goes rite thro to the other one then i see will try that now

 

Yes its a steering ram not a steering rack.

Jeff TT

ok it worked removed oneside

Are you changing one side only? If your changing the other side there is a little trick to know

 

Jeff TT

yes both side the all joints were worn when you jacked the car up you could wiggle the wheel round the car has been pulling to the left since i got it had it tracked but didnt change a thing was only the other day i jacked it up and there was loads od play in the intter tie rod ball joints am hoping this is why it has been pulling left

Are you changing one side only? If your changing the other side there is a little trick to know

 

Jeff TT

 

whats the trick then sir

whats the trick then sir

 

Ok have use your pic to show it and marked the parts A B C

 

So on the end that you have undone the arm from (A) you now only have B &C fixed in the steering ram, you need to release these, C is the locknut and needs undone slightly with water pump pliers or similar, once this is undone both B & C will undo as one unit and remove completely.

 

Now you can see the ram shaft, if you look close you can see it has flats on it a 14 mm spanner will fit these, caution before you do anything else you must screw the old arm back in, not fully tight but you will see why in a moment.

 

So back to the other hicas arm with a spanner on the A part and the now 14 mm spanner holding the inner ram shaft you can undo the other arm. Now if you had not put the old arm back in at the 14 mm spanner end as the tube is hollow it would have squashed it out of shape!!

 

So now with both arms loose remove them both, reinstate B & C and tighten, loose fit both new arms and tighten against each other with two spanners, and that's it.

 

 

Jeff TT

 

Ok have use your pic to show it and marked the parts A B C

 

So on the end that you have undone the arm from (A) you now only have B &C fixed in the steering ram, you need to release these, C is the locknut and needs undone slightly with water pump pliers or similar, once this is undone both B & C will undo as one unit and remove completely.

 

Now you can see the ram shaft, if you look close you can see it has flats on it a 14 mm spanner will fit these, caution before you do anything else you must screw the old arm back in, not fully tight but you will see why in a moment.

 

So back to the other hicas arm with a spanner on the A part and the now 14 mm spanner holding the inner ram shaft you can undo the other arm. Now if you had not put the old arm back in at the 14 mm spanner end as the tube is hollow it would have squashed it out of shape!!

 

So now with both arms loose remove them both, reinstate B & C and tighten, loose fit both new arms and tighten against each other with two spanners, and that's it.

 

 

Jeff TT

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]72321[/ATTACH]

one thing to ask is should part B and C be wound back in all the way like in the pic i did that my self when i was trying to get it off before that part B wasnt wound in all the way same on both sides does this have anything to do with how far the hicas flick the wheel when turning are that like ajusters of is the hicas steering amount fixed by other meens. hope that makes some sort of sence

I think the gap between the parts marked B and C should be 3 mm +/- 0,1mm

Hopefully Jeff will be along soon to confirm.

yes i was like that at the start i will take a pic of the other side now hang on

this is what it look like at the start

That looks correct.

It's just a matter of measuring the gap with a digital vernier so as to make sure it is at the correct figure.

i take it you can ajust how far the hicas moves then by this ajustment

job done thanks jeff tt for the info