Been doing a boost leak check today and had the car plugged in to some software or other. Anyway, the one I was using had an FCID test (basically turning it on and off). I understand I should be able to hear it clicking when doing this but I can't.

 

So, before I go replacing/taking it out for a good clean, I want to know what affects that actually has on the car.

 

I know it let's the revs drop when turning on the blowers, but is that it or could it have some affect on the running of the car in anyway?

 

The reason I ask is that I can't find much wrong with the car and can't get the IAA to sit at 15, it constantly wants the move slightly when idling. Also the revs don't sit spot on and they seem to be slightly shaky if that makes any sense.

 

Not bothering me too much, just trying to make sure everything is perfect really.

The AAC is a Nissan one.

 

The FICD might be different too. When I took mine off I dropped the plunger out, there was no spring in it so I thought I must have lost it. But just found this picture. You should take yours apart (left one) and see if it has a spring in it

you don`t need to take it apart to see the spring :)

 

Mine is as the one on the right.

Once I had cleaned it and refitted, I could get my AAC reading to between 15% and 25% when hooked up to Data Scan.

I could even fine tune the base idle so as to hit mid limit, 20%

As Rolandas says, might not be an OEM one on the left.

you don`t need to take it apart to see the spring :)

 

 

Not that spring mate. The one in the FICD (hexagon shaped bit with grey connector on the end)

Mine is as the one on the right.

Once I had cleaned it and refitted, I could get my AAC reading to between 15% and 25% when hooked up to Data Scan.

I could even fine tune the base idle so as to hit mid limit, 20%

As Rolandas says, might not be an OEM one on the left.

 

The one currently on the car goes down to bout 15% but doesn't stay there. Slowly moves up or down. So I suspected an ir leak but couldn't find any when doing a smoke test etc

This may sound daft, but have you checked your temp' sensor connections also? The AAC reading is linked to engine temperature, so if the connection is a bit dodgy then it may well be affecting the AAC.

Yeah, the aftermarket one reads pretty much spot on the same as the normal one when on data scan etc.

 

Im hoping rolandas takes his apart as I'm curious now whether I've lost a spring or if that ficd didn't have one

Yeah, the aftermarket one reads pretty much spot on the same as the normal one when on data scan etc.

 

Im hoping rolandas takes his apart as I'm curious now whether I've lost a spring or if that ficd didn't have one

 

i will take it apart for you tomorrow

Brilliant. The FICD will just screw out but mine was on pretty tight so you might need a big spanner or something

The ficd is purely to up engine revs when under load from the aircon etc.It basically is an on/off plunger that opens a drilling alowing excess air increase engine revs.If the idle valve value fluctuates it could be purely that the ecu is trying to compensate for an air leak and not the valve being faulty.

Thanks Jimmer, I'm struggling to find any air leaks.

 

Do you know what's going on with the above 2 units and why the difference? I'm more just going through stuff to make sure everything is right

So decided I would try and take the one off the car to look at. Then when trying to get to the bolts I thought... There's nee way ill get this back on the car when I'm done lol. So I decided against it. But did decide to take the air regulator off (I haven't.a clue why I though this bit by itself would be any easier. Anyway, I took the air regulator off and gave it a clean. There was some white gunk inside and it didn't seem as fluent when moving the insides (only comparing it with the one I was messing with last night)

 

You'll notice in the below pics that the codes are different on the one I took from the at and the ones I used in the previous pictures...

 

What do ya's think

 

Dirty

 

 

 

 

 

And cleaned a bit

 

 

 

 

The different item numbers

Edited May 21, 201312 yr by bird

the black numbers stamped/printed in are the S/n .. the Product codes is the yellow writing

S the product code is the same then, but why would the serial number be different?

here you go promised pictures

 

You need to cut your nails bird!

The serial numbers are different as the are unique to the individual part. Similar to the fact that your car is serialised, by its vin number.

That just seems like numbering stuff just for the sake of it lol

 

Rolandas, thanks for the picture, I've obviously just lost the spring.