As title. Need asap.

http://www.performanceenginecomponents.com/products/product.asp?id=250449

 

Found these but don't know enough to know what size I need... :-\

Was your bottom end knocking at all?

Yes.

that will be Big end ( Conrod ) but i would all so Change the Main ones too at the same time

I know what ones they are I just need help finding new ones and someone to enlighten me about the sizing...

if your engine is Original untouched then just get STD. sized you be good to go :)

You will need to take the crank out and inspect it to see if its been scored ect till then you won't no which size you need you might get away with just a polish if your lucky if not you will need it machining then the engineer will tell you how much they needed to take off and advise on size

Not that I don't trust a stranger (insert Saville joke here), but can someone vouch for MarkDeby's response? ^

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Ok, I get it, the more damage done, the thicker the bearings right?

http://www.performanceenginecomponents.com/products/product.asp?id=250449

 

Found these but don't know enough to know what size I need... :-\

 

you need to get the old ones out 1st mate to see what size your on atm..std or over. Bit of advice,if its got to a "knocking" stage then just slipping new rod shells in very seldom works.Crank out and inspect is the only way imho mate:wink:

Yeah I know, I'm staying optimistic as it's only a very slight knock and it's never driven hard. I'd just like to have a new set ready to go in when I got the sump off to inspect just in case I can just change them.

lol u are joking right ...

 

Dont buy thicker bearings as your crank has not been reground ..

 

if your engine is still as and not been rebuilt at any point Most havent the bearing size will be STD. Size

 

i wouldnt let the knock get any more ... as this can damage the crank and will cleaning up this is where Over sized bearings come to play

Yeah I know, I'm staying optimistic as it's only a very slight knock and it's never driven hard. I'd just like to have a new set ready to go in when I got the sump off to inspect just in case I can just change them.

 

take the sump off and walkaway for a week...the oil will drip for that long after and give you face marks that resembles the Pox:rofl::rofl:

With knocking it nearly always scores the crank at least a little, like has been said don't just fit std bearings without checking the crank over as you will end up fitting them and it knocking as soon as you start it up, some times when knocking it also scores the conrod as the shell slips, so check the crank and the rod with the damaged bearing

There goes my optimism.

The things is though it may only need a slight polish mate so you might be lucky, the best thing to do us as soon as it starts to knock stop driving it and replace the bearings, even if the crank does need grinding its not the end of the world

There goes my optimism.

 

optimism will have you spending good money and wasted time...you really cant cross your fingers with bottom end knocks mate,in actuall fact its easier to pull the motor and have it upside down on a engine stand than fking about under the car trying to remove the sump and rod end caps amoungst other horrible bits too.

optimism will have you spending good money and wasted time...you really cant cross your fingers with bottom end knocks mate,in actuall fact its easier to pull the motor and have it upside down on a engine stand than fking about under the car trying to remove the sump and rod end caps amoungst other horrible bits too.

 

Couldn't agree more and whilst its out you could replace some of the harder to reach hoses ect just for piece of mind, can be a ball ache with the engine in

See there's my pickle, I don't have the means (tools, equipment or garage) to do it myself. If I did the engine would be out by now and I'd be doing a very thorough job of it. So currently, it's gotta be booked into a local garage so they can charge me a billion pounds to do it. Bad times.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

See there's my pickle, I don't have the means (tools, equipment or garage) to do it myself. If I did the engine would be out by now and I'd be doing a very thorough job of it. So currently, it's gotta be booked into a local garage so they can charge me a billion pounds to do it. Bad times.

Dave where abouts are you ?

Dorchester, Dorset.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Dorchester, Dorset.

your best bet is to speak to Jimmer hes up your way

That'd still be paying someone else to do it and I'd have to get my car to him (about 2 hours away).

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

That'd still be paying someone else to do it and I'd have to get my car to him (about 2 hours away).

well what ever u do u gonna have to pay some one if you dont do it your self

take the crank out to be sure and check for ovality, Out-of-round deviations of a journal should be maximum 0.00004”. the crank may have chatter marks on it so check for flat spots on the crank. (depends on how long and hard it was knocking. Best be safe than sorry :) also when fitting the bearings check the crush height, this should be around 1.5-2.5” ,(the height the shell sit's over the bearing). Hi performance bearing's will have a greater crush height. This is a vital measurment, so the replacement bearings leave the correct gap (eccentricity) too small a gap and the bearing will overheat. too larger gap and the bearing will knock,, Hope this helps.... All though just putting the new shell's in may work at first, but if the crank is not right it will be for a short time only. soooo

BE A NIGHT AND GET IT RIGHT lol as Mike the Night say's

And measure the ovality of the offending conrod that had the worn bearing,quite often the hammering caused by the rod banging up and down on the freeplay knocks the rod oval,this is repairable but you,d need to strip the engine to remove it.