looking for any advise anyone will give as my car seems to be plagued with problems and as soon as i try and sort one, another comes up, really getting fed up with it now.....

all started as an auto and converted it to manual, new 6 puck clutch, light flywheel, full oil and filter change and fluids all round,

i have changed the ECU for a spl racing one, dual cone filter, big core ally rad and silicone hoses, SS decat exhaust jap speed end cans, other than that its just cosmetic changes...

since doing the changes its now idling at 2k rpm and the viscous fan stays on from the first turn of the key and its really smokey through the exhausts on idle looks simelar to steam on a cold day but a bit thicker, still white and gets worse when you put your foot on the throttle smells like burning petrol to be honest, and while idling you can here a kind on thump through the exhaust every 3 or 4 seconds, i have been told so many different possibilities that i dont know which way is up, been told it could be the tubs, but have not driven it since the change of everything, only started it, also it could be an open vacuum line, havnt completly deleted the AIV so thet have open lines.....i just really dont know what to think.....

please some one help as i just want to drive my car as its been sat on my drive now for nearly a year!!!!!:surrender::sad:

It might take a while to get a reply mate.......everybody on here's stood on their driveways at the moment trying to get their zeds to work

Lol sounds about right

The viscous fan is supposed to be turning or do you mean the electric fan? if the electric fan is on constantly then your left temp sensor is either duff or corroded connection. It will affect the fuelling, so check that first.

what kind of dual intake? any pics?

 

sounds like a mismatch between ecu and intake setup

I think you should check the ECU, take it you have a chip in there, try another.

 

I have recently tried 4 in mine and each behaved differently, the very last one I tried made all my issues disappear 'as if by magic' :clap:

the very last one I tried made all my issues disappear 'as if by magic' :clap:

 

I've heard good things about those...

 

 

 

I'd go with the ECU change as well mate. A duff ECU or chip will cause the electric fan to run constantly and cause all sorts of weird fuelling problems.

The ecu is an spl racing ecu just came complete was on Mikey beans car running fine and the dual filter thing is the same as the as the autobahn one with mushroom filters and the fan in on about is the white one on the front of the engine cheers all

The ecu is an spl racing ecu just came complete was on Mikey beans car running fine and the dual filter thing is the same as the as the autobahn one with mushroom filters and the fan in on about is the white one on the front of the engine cheers all

 

 

There's your problem! lol

 

It's still worth checking mate. Also, if the bolt on the ECU connector is over tightened it causes the connector to bow and gives a dodgy connection.

 

EDIT: the white fan will turn over with the engine but should only be turning at idle speed'ish (unless the engine is hot). Not anything to worry about.

Edited November 1, 201213 yr by Steams

I've heard good things about those...

 

 

 

 

You could try one of those :stupid: it was in fact a reference to a great TV programme I watched as a child at my Grandmas?

I'll have to try and get hold of s different ecu then as got rid of my original auto one I'll have a check in the morning, also where are the temp sensors so I can check them

I'll have to try and get hold of s different ecu then as got rid of my original auto one I'll have a check in the morning, also where are the temp sensors so I can check them

 

Temp sensors are on the front hard water pipes, the single spade one is for the gauge and the square two pin one is the ECU.

 

On another note, Did Mickey say what map the ECU was running?

I'm sure it was as factory mapped to 360bhp with exhaust rad and filter upgrade but not totally sure I'll have to so him, would the map make a big difference? Sorry for all the questions but in dull

i will idle higher once converted to manual aswel as there is less resistance through the drive train at idle. same reason it will now rev up in neutral much quicker, you will nee dto reset this once you solved the other issues. although it will be like 1.5k after conversion not 2.

the temp sensors are on the top aluminium water pipe, running parallel with the rad.

mine did this after the conversion but i put it down to the fact i had decatted aswel. after investigating things i had a failed rear oil seal on one of the tubs, that the cats had been hiding. i do wonder wether the reduction in load going auto to manual will also cause this at idle.

if it was overfueling and that was the cause of the smoke it would be black. i know they say oil smoke is blue but this its always the case, it only burns blue if its been combusted. if its simply vapourising it seems to be white like water vapour. youve changed alot of things at once mate so start working your way through them checking what youve changed is correct esp that ecu. and dont forget if the car has been sat its going to be more prone to corroded connections.

I'm sure it was as factory mapped to 360bhp with exhaust rad and filter upgrade but not totally sure I'll have to so him, would the map make a big difference? Sorry for all the questions but in dull

 

It's not so much the BHP that the chip is mapped to, it's more that it allows extra fuelling at different stages of acceleration which in turn lets you turn the psi up on the turbos, resulting in more boost and the extra HP. If you're running standard tubs and the boost is still at 9psi (factory setting) then it might be that the ECU is putting to much fuel in and causing your problems.

 

A "stage one" chip for the zed will typically up the boost to 14psi. I was just wondering if the ECU from Mickey was maybe for bigger tubs and injectors, which again would result in problems.

 

Do you have an Electronic boost controller or mig tips installed?

 

And don't worry about the questions mate, that's what the clubs for :)

Well in hoping its not tubs as that would pretty much force me to get rid as I can't afford to get replacements let alone afford the engine out to replace, I'll start with checking the ecu and temp sensors would you suggest plugging a standard auto one back in??

It's not so much the BHP that the chip is mapped to, it's more that it allows extra fuelling at different stages of acceleration which in turn lets you turn the psi up on the turbos, resulting in more boost and the extra HP. If you're running standard tubs and the boost is still at 9psi (factory setting) then it might be that the ECU is putting to much fuel in and causing your problems.

 

A "stage one" chip for the zed will typically up the boost to 14psi. I was just wondering if the ECU from Mickey was maybe for bigger tubs and injectors, which again would result in problems.

 

Do you have an Electronic boost controller or mig tips installed?

 

And don't worry about the questions mate, that's what the clubs for :)

 

dont have boost controller and dont know what mig tips are? the boost gauge on the original clocks seems to be reading the same with a bit of throttle though, ill have to try putting the ecu back to standard to start i think

I would get in touch with AndyP, he kindly sent me 3 chips to try out, I kept one, paid him for it and returned the others that did not work for me :biggrin:

dont have boost controller and dont know what mig tips are? the boost gauge on the original clocks seems to be reading the same with a bit of throttle though, ill have to try putting the ecu back to standard to start i think

 

I would try it, an auto ecu shouldn't cost much at all.

 

If that does fix the problem then you can still up the boost by getting an EBC installed and using the spl ecu.

 

Mig tips are used in welding but they can also be used in the vac lines at the turbos, they work by restricting the air going through and increasing the PSI. The reason that they are used is that they are very cheap but can cause boost spikes (bad) EBC's electrically control a solenoid which in turn increases the PSI, you can set PSI levels for different occasions.

 

HTH

Is that just chips or complete ecu? I don't have a standard ecu to convert and also can't really afford another ecu anyway

Ok I'll have a look for a standard ecu and want a boost controller anyway so will have to get one sooner I think, cheers for all your help guys, I'll have a play tomorrow and let you know how it goes

Is that just chips or complete ecu? I don't have a standard ecu to convert and also can't really afford another ecu anyway

 

Andy does the chips, but the spl ecu will just be a standard ecu that has had the chipped changed. Normally the new chip will be in a socket meaning that you can just pull the chip out and replace it with another one.

I'll have to keep that in mind and have a chat with him if I can't sort it

I'll have to keep that in mind and have a chat with him if I can't sort it

 

You may be thinking it's an arm and a leg for a chip from Andy, I assure it is not, he his very good to deal with and also as some ECU's :thumbup1:

ill have to give him a post and see if he can help me out then, cheers for the advise bud