Daft ones but just want to be sure before I get started.

 

Would you fit a new crankshaft oil seal and crankshaft bolts? Anybody know the torque settings? Is Mr F the best place for these?

 

Gearbox oil - any preferences, how much and where are the level filling points

 

Im fitting a fidanza flywheel so should I put new flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel bolts on or can I re use?

Should I use loctite and what torque settings are they?

 

Lots of questions, just want to be certain before I have a go..

 

Cheers

Definately get a new rear main oil seal, its about £20 but whilst its out get it changed.

Daft ones but just want to be sure before I get started.

 

Would you fit a new crankshaft oil seal and crankshaft bolts? Anybody know the torque settings? Is Mr F the best place for these?

 

Gearbox oil - any preferences, how much and where are the level filling points

 

Im fitting a fidanza flywheel so should I put new flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel bolts on or can I re use?

Should I use loctite and what torque settings are they?

 

Lots of questions, just want to be certain before I have a go..

 

Cheers

 

Do you mean the rear crank seal or front seal? you dont need to take off the cranshaft bolt for the rear, but the torque for the crankshaft centre bolt is 216-235nm

 

Gearbox oil sae 75w/90 and you need 3.1 litres, the bolt/plug on the drivers side of the of the box is to fill and the i found the best way to fill from a bottle, is to use some clear hose/pipe about 3ft long, feed the open end into the gearbox filler hole and feed the pipe up through to the engine bay, stick a funnel on the end of the pipe and fill. I found connecting the pipe straight to the bottle created a bit of an air lock and was a bitch to fill, unless you squeeze the shit out of the bottle. You fill till it starts to spill out the hole, basically ideally it needs to be level with the bottom of the hole.

 

You can re use the bolts for the flywheel ( did the bolts come with the flywheel?) Auto fly only has 4 bolts.

same for the pressure plate bolts.

 

You can get the crank seal, collars and bushing for the gearstick, and manual bush from MJP, you will need to remove the auto bushing where the input shaft enters the crank and replace with a manual bushing as they are different sizes.

 

 

Here are the details for the GB plate

 

Tightening torque of bolts, if you have Nissan bolts, they will have a number stamped on the bolt, so use this for reference

 

Hope this helps

Edited October 1, 201213 yr by groover

Also do yourself a favour and buy a master to slave braided hose for the clutch, about £20 and does away with the unnecessary pipework and easier to bleed. Again can be bled at the engine bay for ease before fitting.

Cheers Graham.

 

incidentally not doing a conversion just replacing a not so good manual box.

 

Didnt get any bolts with the fly.

 

Also putting a ralco short shifter whilst there, so should not need new bushes?

Should I replace the front and rear crankshaft oil seal?

Any need for loctite?

Also do yourself a favour and buy a master to slave braided hose for the clutch, about £20 and does away with the unnecessary pipework and easier to bleed. Again can be bled at the engine bay for ease before fitting.

 

Looking at it, it didnt look like I would have to remove the clutch fluid? The master salve hose is the long one?

If I do this any particular clutch fluid and how much will be needed?

Z centre sell the long braided hoses for the master to slave. I've changed two on mine for having it ran too close the the turbo and bursting. so make sure its ran away from anything too hot.

I've also changed the clutch fork and the pivot ball since having mine, got them parts from nissan though so it wasn't cheep.

Cheers Graham.

 

incidentally not doing a conversion just replacing a not so good manual box.

 

Didnt get any bolts with the fly.

 

Also putting a ralco short shifter whilst there, so should not need new bushes?

Should I replace the front and rear crankshaft oil seal?

Any need for loctite?

 

Sorry Kev i should have read the post more clearly lol.

 

You can use your own flywheel bolts, new ones are very expensive, you can use some thread lock on the bolts to aid loosening.

 

Crankshaft seal: are you talking front of engine and rear of engine, or the gearbox rear seal where the prop enters?

Looking at it, it didnt look like I would have to remove the clutch fluid? The master salve hose is the long one?

If I do this any particular clutch fluid and how much will be needed?

 

You can leave the pipe as is if your just changing the box, usually in a conversion, its advisable to get the braided hose, to eliminate the long bleed pipe to the top of the wing.

Brake fluid is fine for clutch and you only need about quarter litre if that.

Sorry Kev i should have read the post more clearly lol.

 

You can use your own flywheel bolts, new ones are very expensive, you can use some thread lock on the bolts to aid loosening.

 

Crankshaft seal: are you talking front of engine and rear of engine, or the gearbox rear seal where the prop enters?

 

Im going to replace the gearbox rear seal where the prop enters. Why its off I might as well replace any others that are appropriate.

From reading, its just the rear crankshaft oil seal I believe I should replace so will get one ordered up