Just wondering if anyone on here has

overhauled their own turbos and what they did.

I`m only aking as there does`nt seem to

be a lot wrong with mine.

I`ve heard you can buy kits - anybody?

If you have access to a nice balancing machine then go for it The turbos spin at around 200k rpm so they have to be very finely balanced. I'm not sure what the kit would contain though...

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

The kits will be the rubber & metal internal oil seals - and yes you can do it yourself...

 

 

Just don't expect your turbo's to last more than about five minutes. As Andy says, balancing is very, /very/ important, and you need some very specialist and accurate equipment to do that.

 

If it wasn't for that, overhauling turbos would be a piece of cake - shame hey

 

------------------

GZ.

hi,

sorry to come in and upset everyone,but you can rebuild your own turbo's.

i have on many cars without problems some cars still running with the same turbos 70,000-80,000miles later(hard driving)

as for balancing each part comes fully balanced anyway ,ie compressor wheel is balanced individually to the shaft etc,

the nut that holds the compressor wheel on is balanced by itself,get the picture....

so as long as you take your time and be very carefull when you strip them there should be no probs rebuilding

 

many people say the turbo should be balanced but how many have to actually balance them.i.e do something rather than just check them??

the kits start about £50-£60 each in this you usually get new seals,thrust washer,bearings,,

BUT make sure when you strip your turbos that

1.you dont damage anything

2.your exhaust housings are not cracked..

3.they are not already damaged by foreign bodies entering either inlet or exhaust side

 

 

--hth--

--neil--

 

 

------------------

hi again,

200k rpm is a little excessive more like 130krpm,

and there will be no rubber seals,

rubber don't like 1300degC...

 

--hth--

--neil--

 

 

------------------

Just as an aside, it turns out that when you have a high stroke to bore ratio (i.e., tall cylinders) you tend to have lower exhaust temperatures. When high temperature, high pressure gasses are allowed to expand they are able to cool down. The reason turbos aren't pushed further back is that you get less pressure on the power recovery turbine... therefore, less boost.

 

The turbos on ships are enormous (sometimes two meters in diameter). Boost is paramount, while turbo lag is irrelevant. Since efficiency is so important, exhaust gasses are not released from these four story tall diesel engines until the the piston is near bottom dead center... even on two-stroke engines.

 

Automobile engines could be made this way, but they wouldn't offer very much acceleration.

 

 

------------------

--Maxx

Originally posted by neil:

hi,

sorry to come in and upset everyone,but you can rebuild your own turbo's.

i have on many cars without problems some cars still running with the same turbos 70,000-80,000miles later(hard driving)

as for balancing each part comes fully balanced anyway ,ie compressor wheel is balanced individually to the shaft etc,

the nut that holds the compressor wheel on is balanced by itself,get the picture....

so as long as you take your time and be very carefull when you strip them there should be no probs rebuilding

 

many people say the turbo should be balanced but how many have to actually balance them.i.e do something rather than just check them??

the kits start about £50-£60 each in this you usually get new seals,thrust washer,bearings,,

BUT make sure when you strip your turbos that

1.you dont damage anything

2.your exhaust housings are not cracked..

3.they are not already damaged by foreign bodies entering either inlet or exhaust side

 

 

--hth--

--neil--

 

 

 

sorry but i dont agree with that, once all the parts are put together the unit(centre core) gets balanced as a whole, (i know this a very good friend of mine is the garret dealer in South Africa) there is no way you could get all the bits balanced by putting them together by hand,and they come balanced as individual parts not as a unit, so weights need to be trimmed and adgusted. And then how silly would it look if you tried that had to do an engine pull and made a balls up and had to do another engine pull to sort out your mess first time around.

 

the saying you never have time to do a job properly the first time, but always time to do it properly the second time , seems to always ring true.

 

I really don't agree. Lets ask another question - who actually OWNS the tools to do this job??? Apart from the balancing (which does need doing), there's also other factors such as end play etc... What condition are the journals in? Are you going to replace all the thrust bearings too?

 

 

I have to agree with Neil here - I did mine 20,000 miles ago (£45 per side for kit) and still going strong. It really depends on the state of the internals and reason for repair. If it's just for a rear seal failure, and there's no physical damage, then you aren't doing anything which would change the balance.

 

 

------------------

Reading this with much interest! As i want to change my seals before the pipes go on.

 

Has anyone got a 'exploded view' of the turbos etc?

 

Is it really an engine out job? Can't it be done on a lift From underneath?

 

Anything else i should know?

 

harve

 

 

Hmm, this interests me too!

 

I bought a set of second hand turbos a while back. Paid 150 squids for the pair and I never realised the overhaul kits were so cheap.

 

I suppose if your blowers went bang and it's usually one that goes not both at the same time even if you got 20K miles out of them it would be worth it.

 

1600 squids for hybrids from SE with a 650 engine pull fee plus fitting labour?

 

 

 

------------------

"Life sucks. Get a F**king helmet, okay?"

Denis Leary

www.turbotechnics.com/balanceinfo.htm

 

 

hope this helps guys you only need to balance rotating parts im sure, if u r doing your own turbo,s may i recomend gettin 360' thrust bearings lets your turbo's spool up quicker & are more relliable on higher boost.

the actual parts cost next to nothing, ie compressor wheels cost me (for super 60 5 bladers) around £42 each , centre cores cost me full roller bearing cartride around £130 each, these are all genuine parts straight from HKS, (for gt2530's) but its the time involved in balancing them ect that costs the money in the contstruction/

 

as for 360 thrust bearing they dont do anything for perormance, all for reliablity.

Harve,

 

It can be done without removing the engine but it's a real bugger of a job, takes incredible patience, lots of long thin extensions and I'll guarantee you skin every knuckle!

The hardest part was removing the oil feed - but as it's probably full of carbon anyway it's as well to cut it and buy/make up new ones. (nb - mine's a 1990 and has brake pipe style connections - I believe later models might have a banjo fitting) The other hard part was the bending back the locking tabs but surprisingly the actual bolts came out without problems. It's all covered in the workshop manual except that it shows LHD instead of RHD. Also it implies that you take the downpipes off, then the pre-cats. It's actually much easier to leave the downpipe attached to the pre-cat and unbolt the pre-cat.

 

 

------------------

Thankyou

OK Guys

Thanks for the advice.

Like most things in life , if you`ve

actually done it , then you can pass

on the advice.

neil and Dick 300 have and it works.

Obviously if any rotating parts are damaged

it will need to be balanced , but as I said

mine seem fine apart from a little too much

movement on the shafts.

So, neil and Dick 300 where did you get your kits from? I`ve got stock Garretts.

Cheers

Mark

Mark,

 

Can't remember the name now, but all I did was look under Turbo or Turbo spares in Yellow pages. If I remember rightly there was only one company listed and they were somewhere in either Yorkshire or Lancashire. I just tried the same using Yell.com and found http://www.turboforce.co.uk/ who do repair kits - not sure if it's the same company or not.

 

Colin

 

 

------------------

Sorry to go on about this but....

 

If there is too much play in the shafts then you are looking at a full strip down and rebuild... This will require the turbos to be balanced afterwards... Sounds like the thrust bearings have worn to me...

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

I've heard you can get some type of modded oil seal to stop them leaking after decatting? Are these available to do yourself or is it a change to the casing?

 

you would be silly not to remove the engine in the first place.

it takes less time to remove the engine and get the job done than to leave it in. it can be done, but if the engine is out, you can check if the manifolds are craked ect ect and replace all the old wiring ect.

And there is no cheap way of redoing this type of job period, if you have the slightest hint of play in the shafts you will need reballencing, i had a turbo let go on me and the Impeller broke up and allt he little bits ended up inside my engine, ending up in a complete rebuild, flush of the system, intercoolers ect ect, so 5k down the line is it really worth doing this job on the cheap to save money?

just my two p