My car came with some tasty mods, but there is no paper work on engine internals, over the weekend I took groover out in the zed, now I've been running it with the boost controller off (9psi) but thought I'd try it with the boost controller set at the low setting on my boost controller, it went over 14 psi, I don't really want to kill my engine so I haven't even bothered trying it on the high setting as I just don't know what engine parts are in it.

 

Anyway these are the mods my car defiantly has

 

Gt525 turbos

Jwt chip for 555 injectors

555 injectors

Hks air filter

Decat exhaust

Z1 side mount intercoolers

Z1 dump valves

Z1 oil cooler

 

Engine internals unknown if they are stock or not so I'm presuming they are stock

15psi does it have a afr gauge ?

15psi does it have a afr gauge ?

 

Nope I'd assume that was mapped when the chip was installed for the injectors

If you can borrow a boroscope, you could pop it into a cylinder and maybe see the stamping on top of a piston?

If you can borrow a boroscope, you could pop it into a cylinder and maybe see the stamping on top of a piston?

 

I shall get hold of me mate who lent me the use of his last time and have a check, would be nice to know, 14 psi seems a bit low considering my cherry red zed was pushing 16psi, I'm sure if the engine has been maintained to a high standard that more than 14 psi is achievable and safe, I know stock injectors and turbos have issues when going above 14psi, but not con rods and pistons.

I think what Mark means is whether or not the previous owner fitted an aftermarket AFR gauge mate.

Your chip for the injectors though is JWT, which obviously as you know is American and very generic.

 

15PSI as Mark says is the MAX i would run without knowing excatly what's inside the engine, especially piston wise anyways.

smithy

Nope I'd assume that was mapped when the chip was installed for the injectors

 

Assumptions CAN be VERY expensive..

 

Having an AFR guage fitted in conjunction with a wide band Lambda sensor will allow you to monitor what is happening . So you can stay with a safe boost level and enjoy some hassle free motoring and peace of mind.

Assumptions CAN be VERY expensive..

 

Having an AFR guage fitted in conjunction with a wide band Lambda sensor will allow you to monitor what is happening . So you can stay with a safe boost level and enjoy some hassle free motoring and peace of mind.

 

Assumptions is the mother of all f ups,

 

so investment time i think in a AFR gauge and lambda sensor is the way forward :D

 

sweet thanks for the advice peeps, ill just keep the boost controller turned off for now then.

I agree with pete asumption is the mother and all.... Dont forget 14psi of airfrom those tubs is more air volume by far. Its more the afr you need to get right. If thats wrong the engone will eat itself if its gar enough lean il will chew those pistons on no boostz time to hsve it rr and set up properly and safely vs. getting ot wrong will soon see you joing matks melted piston club. :(

Assumptions is the mother of all f ups,

 

so investment time i think in a AFR gauge and lambda sensor is the way forward :D

 

sweet thanks for the advice peeps, ill just keep the boost controller turned off for now then.

 

This forum over the years is littered with tales of woe surrounding old tired stock engines and boost pressure.

The final sentence nearly always has the word "boom" in it.:hammer:

You have bought yourself a decent car that should be the basis of a nice Zed with some care and attention to it.

Why ruin it all in the first few weeks/months by blowing it up

Well thats my opinion anyway.:winkiss:

As you probably know i run an AFR guage on an engine that has NO turbos AND is fully mapped.

It does however give a constant monitor of what is taking place in the engine and is re assuring. (Oh its cool too cos it lights up and the lights sweep round the outside of the dial like a fairground ride.):whistling:

Worth fitting just to amuse the kids. LOL!!:lol:

What's the optimum position to fit a wideband sensor? Is it a case of the closer to the turbo outlet the better?

What's the optimum position to fit a wideband sensor? Is it a case of the closer to the turbo outlet the better?

 

For longevity's sake, further downstream is preferred. I've run widebands in various positions, my MR2 has it about 12" from the turbine housing, my old S13 had it half way to the back box. I've also ran them in purpose-built clamps for the tailpipe. As for orientation, keep it above the horizontal to protect the sensor from condensation, and perpendicular to the flow of exhaust gas.

Assumptions is the mother of all f ups,

 

so investment time i think in a AFR gauge and lambda sensor is the way forward :D

 

sweet thanks for the advice peeps, ill just keep the boost controller turned off for now then.

 

Some kind of knock monitoring until you're 110% sure the map is spot-on for your particular set-up.

Some kind of knock monitoring until you're 110% sure the map is spot-on for your particular set-up.

 

the knock sensor is still plugged in and working (first time for everything lol)

 

Suppose i could really benifit from booking the car in with john dixon.

the knock sensor is still plugged in and working (first time for everything lol)

 

Suppose i could really benifit from booking the car in with john dixon.

 

The OEM sensor is only in operation at certain parts of the ignition maps (on the Zed TT it's high load & low RPM scenarios, up to 3200RPM). It's definitely not suitable for sensing knock to protect your engine from going boooom. If you know what you're listening for, ears are OK. You can use det-cans or make a simple electronic system from a hearing amplifier. Or buy an aftermarket system for £££. All depends how good you are at hearing det, and how much you're worried by these things. It's a slippery slope, I can't drive a turbocharged car without knowing what the AFR is.

For longevity's sake, further downstream is preferred. I've run widebands in various positions, my MR2 has it about 12" from the turbine housing, my old S13 had it half way to the back box. I've also ran them in purpose-built clamps for the tailpipe. As for orientation, keep it above the horizontal to protect the sensor from condensation, and perpendicular to the flow of exhaust gas.

 

I run mine about half way down the decat pipe.

About level with gear lever.

Its horizontal and at 90 deg to the flow as you suggest.

as others have said, it's all down to the tune. Just go lo a local dyno and do a power run with them logging AFR, should give you the confidence you need

cool 15psi is what 1bar?, you know that limiting rpm reduces risk to engine aswell yeah? agree with all above dyno it hopefully its rich lol

oh its defo rich and not lean lol, you can smell that bugger and it leaves nice tiny black deposits on your hand if you hold them infront of each pipe for around 30 seconds. so i know its not lean.

 

we had it on consults at JAE, typical the drivers side O2 is knackered, so ive had to unplug them for now. untill i get around to changing them O2's

 

idle temp did not raise above 77 as well which was nice as im used to seeing my engine temp at 82 (blue zed) so its running a lot cooler than the blue one as well.

 

Does sound bloody loud though, the car is already booked in for a dyno day at RGS motor sports on the 15th of this month, with 3 runs and a print out, which would be nice to have a new one, considering the last time it was dyno'ed it was back in 2009 with BHP of 457.5bhp at the wheels, be nice to see if its still around that mark now and what they did to achieve it.

oh its defo rich and not lean lol, you can smell that bugger and it leaves nice tiny black deposits on your hand if you hold them infront of each pipe for around 30 seconds. so i know its not lean.

 

silly thing to say, rich at idle doesn't mean anything about the fuelling under load

cool rich is good need a remap myself as rich and well bedded in now, ill go with you if you fancy it get them done at the same time

jaffa mine was set rich all the way through

silly thing to say, rich at idle doesn't mean anything about the fuelling under load

 

well im not sure here, im sure you will correct me, but if its lean under load, i wouldn't get pops out of the exhaust when changing gear and engine breaking? would of thought that would only happen if running too rich due to excess fuel entering the exhaust while still being burnt.

 

also the reasons for the thread is to get a clear understanding of what is best for it, ive had some good feed back so far, im trying not to destroy my engine, if i say something a bit noobish, thats because i want to know :lol:

but true could be just rich at idle just read the whole post lol

promising

but true could be just rich at idle just read the whole post lol

 

as above really, i didnt build this car, someone else did so it would be nice to know whats been done to it previously, when i brought the car, it was basically on the premis that what was listed in the advert was actually on the car, so until i got home and started confirming what was on the car, i treated it as stock.

 

Im not really after high BHP figures as i have to get the kids around in the car, but would be nice to know that what ever is there, is set up correctly.