trying to help a mate here, symptoms are theses.

 

TT auto.

 

From cold start.

 

Car starts fine, idles fine. when driving cuts out, strong smell of raw petrol, it wont start for a while after, once left it will start and off you go, if the car still isnt up to temp, it will continue cutting out under normal driving conditions until its up to temp, at which point you can drive it around as if nothing is wrong As long as you are driving normally.

 

From hot

Car starts fine, idles fine, when driving will cut out on hard accelleration only, strong smell of petrol, takes a bit to start, but once started can drive it normally and it will be fine.

 

Changed MAF for the one out of my car thinking it might be related to the MAF, and also checked the FPR the fuel pipes under the throttle body leavers and the damper area, there is a smell of fuel at the FPR but it looks bone dry, though might change that also for the one off my car, just to see.

 

So question is, would a faulty FPR cause the car to stall out? bearing in mind due to it being an auto it basically means he is stranded until he brings the car to a stop and waits a bit to restart it, as it doesnt "bump" start its self.

 

Or could it be something else?

Edited August 17, 201213 yr by vodkashots

have you checked the ecu temp sensor? not that I'm saying its the total problem but could be related.

I know if its not working that it will cause overfueling because it things the cars is still cold.

Good point, due to the connector being snapped an you cant connect and hold it via the little metal clip, the pins could really do with a clean as well, i did give them a rub down with some sand paper, but the connector its self really needs changing.

 

due to the strong smell of fuel i thought it might be due to the FPR failing and not maintaining the fuel pressure at higher revs.

Right, bit perplexed as to if its the ECU temp sender, changed it for a known working one with clean contacts, it cut out once, but when hard accelerating now feels like the MAF is playing up instead of just dieing, it had major hesitation though as if the maf was faulty, the maf is the one off my blue car and was working fine. going to change the connector on it tomorrow, but ive cleaned the female pins and also squeeze them in to give a tighter contact.

 

Also going to check the TPS tomorrow but doubt its that, if its not the ECU temp sender or the TPS, could it be the injectors? or the injector O rings?

sounds like a plan, and as far as I know, yes it could be an O ring, but I hope you've eliminated all other possibilities before having to do that job.

Give the CAS connector a good clean too. I would probably give all the connectors a good clean while you're at it ;)

Day 2

 

Dear diary, found that if you turn the key but not start the engine enough times, you get a really strong fuel smell, suspect fuel pipe leaking, must of missed the pipe yesterday as the engine was still warm and it evaporated too quickly. left engine to cool and tried again, found major leak at the small rubber fuel hose that bridges the two injector rails, in the process of replacing (damn nissan dont make things easy) Currently boiling some water to make the new fuel hose nice and supple. when i disconnected the fuel hose hardly any fuel came out, considering i didn't relieve the fuel pressure, i am taking it as the leak was sufficient enough to allow that pressure to escape.

 

So far the island has been good to me, light winds with no rain, though constantly over cast. wondering if i can survive long enough to fix this car so i can escape for a drive before i have to hand it back, supplies of banana's are low and im running out of drink. might have to lay down my tools and go hunting, need to keep my strength up for fixing the zed.

Dear diary,

 

Fed the monkeys, and walked the hamsters.

 

Anyway, fixed the fuel pipe, no more leaking or bad fuel smell, though once the car was started had blue smoke from drivers side exhaust. give it a blip of the throttle and loads of blue smoke and a loud pop, smoke then disappeared over time and is not back?

 

Anyway, checked timing once car was up to temp, timing was out quite badly, loosened CAS went to adjust it and the car cut out, AHA, think we found the issue, changed CAS for known working one and set timing, then checked and set the TPS, didnt have to adjust the idle...?

 

Took car for test drive, no cutting out, no fuel smell, and no cutting out on hard acceleration. need to reset both Auto ecu and ECU still though.

 

But at least the car no longer dies, mate borrowing CAS until he can get a replacement as i still need to be able to move my blue one. but one happy chappy.

well, let the car cool down, then took it for a test drive, still in safety boost as need to sort out resetting the ECU still, though neg cable now removed from bat, have found there is a leak to the power steering pipe, same one as usual so looks like he wants me to fix that as well for him (oh the joy, bloody hate that one lol)

 

Car seems slightly lumpy on idle though, has been since he arrived in it. not sure why.

i can supply your mate a another one if needed

Hope your mate gets his car sorted Vods.....

 

......but with you to help him out I'm sure it will be fine!!

 

Richard:thumbup1:

Hope your mate gets his car sorted Vods.....

 

......but with you to help him out I'm sure it will be fine!!

 

Richard:thumbup1:

 

its me dad lol, im trying to get him to sign up to the forum, but he works to much so gets little time. he liked my blue one that much he went and got one him self.

Anyway, fixed the fuel pipe, no more leaking or bad fuel smell, though once the car was started had blue smoke from drivers side exhaust. give it a blip of the throttle and loads of blue smoke and a loud pop, smoke then disappeared over time and is not back?

 

Could it be one side was receiving less fuel due to the fuel bridge leaking? and now it has some pressure it was able to blow all the "crap" out?

Could it be one side was receiving less fuel due to the fuel bridge leaking? and now it has some pressure it was able to blow all the "crap" out?

 

doubt it, it smokes on start from the drivers side, but then clears and doesnt come back, might be valve stems leaking on that one side, or could be blocked PCV valve. it doesnt blow the dip stick, and doesnt smoke once the car has warmed up, only on start from being left over night.

 

I think zeds have it in for my anyway, as was using it today to drop kids off to a meeting with their mum and it popped the drivers side S shaped turbo water pipe? typical it had to be one of the worst ones to get to. doesnt leak when the engine is running, but turn it off and it does. so managed to get the car back to mine, something else that needs to be replaced.