ive been through some ups and downs with this car but im sick of this now. as some of you know i recently converted from auto to manual but i have to say i dont even want to drive it anymore. thats a real first.

the whole thing feels disjointed clunky, im pretty sure the turbos have shit the bed i took it out tonight and it stinks of oil and chucks out white smoke when it feels like it. every time you pull away it rattles and feels like it wants to stall. i can honestly say two weeks ago i had a very solid auto jdm zed. now if im totally honest i have a smokey piece of rattley shit. i need help or im gonna burn the thing to the floor.

Is it deffinately smoke?

Not steam by any chance?

Was there an oily smell during the test video?

yeah def smoke, it looks more white at idle. on boost its bluer and farrr less. and yeah it stinks of oil.

It plumes blue smoke @ 2k rpm. Idle is smooth and runs nice on a drive, boosts fine,

On overrun it puffs some smoke but otherwise fairly clean exhaust.

looks like turbo oil seals to me

looks like turbo oil seals to me

thats what both me and hellraiser had almost set ourselves on. we had a play about with it the other day and came to that conclusion. i believe the quote was

"i think we both know what the problem is" im gonna bust out a compression test over the weekend just to be sure of headgasket and piston ring failure. you seal went a while ago didnt they jaffa?

is your exhaust complete two sections or do they go into one? it's strange for both turbo seals to go at once, when mine went, it was just one side, it started off smoking bad when driving, after about 5 miles, it got progressively worse until just driving at 15mph to the local garage was like i was one of the red arrows! lol

 

have you checked anything on your ECU, and how is the oil level?

thats what both me and hellraiser had almost set ourselves on. we had a play about with it the other day and came to that conclusion. i believe the quote was

"i think we both know what the problem is" im gonna bust out a compression test over the weekend just to be sure of headgasket and piston ring failure. you seal went a while ago didnt they jaffa?

 

Seals on my originals went about 5 years ago. Smoked occasionally on idle, was worst when coming to a stop at junctions/roundabouts, drove fine though :)

 

Had a problem earlier in the year, but that was more than seals, turbo shaft broke, so oil in exhaust, lots of smoke and no boost!

Seals on my originals went about 5 years ago. Smoked occasionally on idle, was worst when coming to a stop at junctions/roundabouts, drove fine though :)

 

Had a problem earlier in the year, but that was more than seals, turbo shaft broke, so oil in exhaust, lots of smoke and no boost!

 

That sounds very simular, smokes ittermitently on boost too , one time you get a big puff another very little. Its worse when rolling to and from traffic speeds ie 10mph etc, still pulls like feck though.

 

And yeah I have a cross over section in my exhaust, hence both sides, if you block one off at idle it puffs out far worse than if they were both puffing. As you can see though at idle theres not much, until the revs rise and I assume push the crap out.

righto chaps warmed the car up today, pulled the plugs and did a compression test. testing the drivers side bank first followed by the passenger side.

results were as follows.

1. 170psi

2.165psi

3.170psi

4.165psi

5.170psi

6.160psi

as you can see the left bank is pretty good all at 170 and the right hand bank was slightly lower but still very uniform. i think the battery was starting to drop off a little on the second bank aswel. but yeah i think thats a fairly healthy twin turbo block. :)

Did you resolve this? I'm having a very similar issue at the moment... Haven't had a chance to do a leak test or a compression test yet, I'm just praying it's not the headgasket...

Seems the conclusion of the thread is that it's the turbo oil seal(s) healthy compression test kinda proves the theory out I guess....always worth ensuring your PCV system is in correct working order before changing the turbos though!

Yeah im still not totally convinced its turbos, I'm confident its not combustion chamber related. Pcvs are on the list.

Id like to get it diagnosed 100% before I pull the block, but the mot runs out on the 10th and obviously it wouldnt pass so its grounded. Ive got to the point of being disinterested now. I have no car as a result and if fixing the tubs doesnt work I dunno if be able to afford to go further at least for a while. :(

Edited September 6, 201213 yr by Stephen

just to keep you all updated, the engine is currently out, me and hellraiser have been causally popping the tubs off and a few other useful bits while its out. anyways ive currently got a pair of turbos in 8 millions pieces and ive found the culprit. the passenger side turbo has a worn exhaust seal. allowing oil to pass into the exhaust housing. anyways, tahts going to be rebuilt shortly and the pair of them upgraded to 360 degree trust bearings, to future proof the blighters. ive also discovered a few things while the block is out one being the passenger side manifold was missing two bolts. a pcv had its little restrictor flipped so gas was passing way to freely. anyone got any stainless coil pack brackets?

Good to here you have found the fault and its all being sorted:thumbup1: keep us updated mate.

upgrade the oil seal to a Staggered gap type .

yes that was the thing i was trying to remember mark. that will be being done. do you know with t25, t28 etc does the main housing vary? i know the rebuild kits are all the same, so it made me wonder. as at some point i plan on pushing through the 400bhp mark and would want to use t28s so obviously if my main body is in great shape as ive just built them it would be a shame to waste them a few years down the line.

the main Chia ( Core ) from t25>t28 is the same but both turbine/compressor wheels and Hosing are different

your T2/25's can be made somewhere close to a T28 But Power wise wouldn't be the same as a True T28

as the exhaust/compressor housings are Larger and have better air flow and i think the A'R is slightly larger

 

Standard Tubs will do a Good 380 @ Fly

Rebuilt still about the same power but with better reliability

Rebuilt T25 Hybrids ( T28 ) 380>430 @ Fly

True T28's 450+ Depending on other mods

 

these are only speculated & not exaggerated ... more realistic specs

cheers mark pob easier to buy some goosed true t28s and rebuild them then.

yes .. but then u will need Air in/out adapters ... Fittings will be different

and new Down pipes as these will be 5 bolt not 4 :)

is that the small angled section that bolts onto the top line so to speak, on the front compressor housing.

yeah ... and the Cover plate inlet ... bolts are in a different place

ah right cheers again mark, il be rebuilding the block before i go down that route. want it to be reliable.

just a pic to show u ..

 

 

cheers mark, hopefully il get to this point but atm i want the car back on the road an di cant afford to throw my house deposit or part of it at least on a a new engine and turbos lol. regrettably. get it all healthy then push it through with the usual and hopefully get 350-370 out of it. should be enough on the road.

Plenty m8 ... Most of the Zeds are only 280hp@ fly anyways so getting another 70hp more will be fun

fun is the aim lol.