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Can anyone tell me if this is correct please?

After warming my zed up in neutral in the garage, so as to do some Data Scan checks,

I could not help but notice my waste gate solenoids were switching ON at around 2250rpm under no load!!

Is this normal?

Does not sound correct to me,

my limited understanding is that they should operate when under boost so as to help limit the boost pressure!

Could be wrong though?

Featured Replies

Might be wrong here!!-but I think they operate the other way,i.e. switch off to limit boost.They switch on when the engine reaches temp to prevent full boost from cold.-like I say need to confirm.............

  • Author

Thanks for the valued input there Mantav8.

I too do not really understand, so I thought I would fire her up and just double check.

With engine fully warmed up and ticking over, the solenoid is showing "OFF" if I gradually raise the revs, as soon as she hits 2250rpm the solenoid changes to "ON"

As I understand it, the "ON" signal allow vacuum to go to the waste gates thus reducing boost pressure by lowering the resistance to pressure at the gate.

For some reason, the ECU is going into one of its many safety modes!! Only problem is, WHY??

God this is p*ss*ng me off.

  • Author

Cheers Jeff TT,

Looks like I must have a strange electrical problem somewhere then.

It gets worse!

  • Author

Not sure Steams, I just don't understand why it is electrically working the wrong way round? If you know I mean?

I think I will have to check it again tomorrow.

Think I am loosing it to be honest.

Thanks for the help so far guys.

  • Author

Sorry guys, but I can't settle with this. The more I read the more I have to disagree. The link I have posted clearly states that the waste gate controls the maximum psi condition by remaining closed until maximum boost is achieved. The is pre set at 9.5psi and is only effected by the ecu activating safety boost so as to lower the maximum boost to 7psi. It achieves this by switching ON the waste gate solenoid which under normal running conditions is OFF. When switched ON vacuum is applied to help lower the boost to 7psi.

For some reason mine switches ON for no apparent reason at around 2250rpm.

I still can not see this as correct!

Sorry guys but I just need to understand what's going on. No offence.

Ok the easiet way to think of it is the solenoid valve is shut when off and bear in mind it is a 3 port valve, this means when the solenoid is off such as when the engine is cold or the reves are low the actuator is receiving the max flow of boost trying to open the wastegate, when the revs rise and the engine is hot the solenoids power up. Now the valve is open and they have become bleed valves, by this I mean they full amount of boost is not going to the actuator so this now slows the opening of the wastegate and hence the boost rises above 5 psi, once the boost reaches around 9.5 psi the boost is now at the same rate of the actuator spring and so starts to open the wastegate to control the max boost pressure.

 

Basically your boost solenoids are working as they should, hate to say it but your getting confused now as the issue your having is frustrating you, you need outside help....Coventry to Coleshill is only less than 18 miles!!

 

Jeff TT

Edited by JeffTT

  • Author

Thanks for that Jeff, sorry to have doubted your knowledge and experience, the same goes for you Mantav8.

You are right with regards to me being confused. I am suffering the red mist with regards to my zed at the moment. I guess I just want to get her sorted as I do not believe I have ever realised the full potential of a properly running "Z"

 

As for letting you sort her? good idea! I will call you soon! may have to be after my hol's though.

Just a re cap of my major problems to date.

 

1) intermittent code 34

2) Major stumble, (flat spot when cold) Data Scan shows massive drop in timing from 35 btdc to 15 btdc as soon as tps comes off closed throttle position. (revs drop dramatically also, nearly stalls!)

(can deffinately hear a solenoid firing at the same time?)

This virtually disappears when warm, In fact goes slightly the other way.

3) General feeling of lack of power!

4)Pi**ed off) lol

 

That said Jeff, do you feel confidant that these issues are easily sorted via a comprehensive conzult.

or will it be a matter of trial and error?

Edited by redwine300

That said Jeff, do you feel confidant that these issues are easily sorted via a comprehensive conzult.

or will it be a matter of trial and error?

 

No reason at all for it not be sorted with a ConZult and set up session, again the ignition figure your seeing when the throttle switch closes is correct! the stalling is caused by either a slow reaction from an incorrect air valve which may be not working due to a bad connection or air leak confusing the afm.

 

Like I said, too easy to get over technical before setting up the basics, will have you going around in circles, you would be surprised how many tech help calls we get on non starters that have run out of fuel!! even had one come via the AA as the patrol guy would not get inlvolved....run out of petrol, he thought it would be a nightmare to get going again, whilst I signed his paper work Jamie popped some fuel in and had it running before he left??

 

ConZult dagnostic is only £35+ vat should have it traced and maybe even sorted for that.

 

Jeff

  • Author

Sounds promising Jeff.

Looks like I will have to get her over to you soon, may have to be after my forth coming holiday though.

I go away on the 18th

Would you need to keep it over night? The only reason I ask is that the main stumbling issue occurs mainly from cold.

Strange thing is, Straight after starting she seems fine, but after about 30 seconds or so she becomes a real pig up until she warms up.

My other problem being is that she is part in primmer so ideally would like dry weather.

Hopefully we can work something out?

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