Talking to ultimateray this evening both of our cars are autos convertted to manual. And we both have high idles when warm around 1500 and 2k with clutch depressed. Looking about it sems in the us they routinly knock down the idle speed after a manual conversion. Is this right and do I still need to do it?

well when my engine was up to temp, it was still sitting at 25 degrees out, so used the timing light to set it to 15, though it might not be advancing it correctly due to it still thinking the cars in neutral oops.

 

so do you run this wire from the neutral switch to the ecu, then just plumb it in permanently to the Pin 44 on the ecu? if so i suppose i best get on the case tomorrow lol

 

 

Yep sure do, just make sure you cut the wire not splice into it. You only want it going to the switch.

Yep sure do, just make sure you cut the wire not splice into it.

 

hmm wonder where that wire ends up lol, take it its one of those now redundent connectors near the hicas.

 

anyway, need to get the car in the air, still need to sort my exhaust out since its been knocked about by the bloody speed humps around here.

Yep sure do, just make sure you cut the wire not splice into it. You only want it going to the switch.

 

thats how mines done too :)

 

got that many auxillary wires going to and from my ecu i cant rember which ones which now though!

hmm wonder where that wire ends up lol, take it its one of those now redundent connectors near the hicas.

 

anyway, need to get the car in the air, still need to sort my exhaust out since its been knocked about by the bloody speed humps around here.

 

It should be going to the engine bay matey, but probably just tucked in under the box.

well when my engine was up to temp, it was still sitting at 25 degrees out, so used the timing light to set it to 15, though it might not be advancing it correctly due to it still thinking the cars in neutral oops.

 

so do you run this wire from the neutral switch to the ecu, then just plumb it in permanently to the Pin 44 on the ecu? if so i suppose i best get on the case tomorrow lol

 

As I understood it, in your case the problem isnt that it thinks its in neutral, it think its in gear but the timing is at 15degrees, rather than 25 as it should be.

 

My grey one (converted) used to run with a fairly high idle i put this down to the timing never dropping below 25 when it was neutral. Perhaps 1500rpm clutch depressed (i.e not turning the gearbox over) 1200rpm clutch released.

 

I dont have conzult anymore so cant check what the silver one is doing lol. But that was a factory manual, as far as I know anyway!

 

30 posts in an hour I think its some kind of record hehe

Edited July 26, 201213 yr by Quavey

Phils did it before the conversion so not a good comparison Steve

right, need to know how to wire this in, got 2 black wires coming off the neutral on the gearbox, do i extend one wire to pin 44 on the ecu, and just earth the other?

Done, extended both wires to the ecu, plumbed one directly to Pin 44 wire joined not spliced, then earthed the other on the chassis, started the car, lol 35 degree's, waited for it to come up to temp, and then set it to 15btdc, now when i stick it in gear, it goes to 25, and when in neutral it goes back to 15, checked on consults as well as with timing light.

 

But think i have positive crank case pressure as my dip stick was poking out, and i know i pushed that back in, though does feel wobbly in the dipstick tube. :(

i though the idel had to be reset anyways from auto to man due to mass/load from the auto box on the car

as the manual is a more free running it will be higher

Done, extended both wires to the ecu, plumbed one directly to Pin 44 wire joined not spliced, then earthed the other on the chassis, started the car, lol 35 degree's, waited for it to come up to temp, and then set it to 15btdc, now when i stick it in gear, it goes to 25, and when in neutral it goes back to 15, checked on consults as well as with timing light.

 

But think i have positive crank case pressure as my dip stick was poking out, and i know i pushed that back in, though does feel wobbly in the dipstick tube. :(

 

Awesome mate well done... I thought about doing that so often when I had mine, just didnt know where to start lol.

 

Be interesting to see how it runs differently now? Any quicker or Smoother etc.

i though the idel had to be reset anyways from auto to man due to mass/load from the auto box on the car

as the manual is a more free running it will be higher

 

i believe from what ive read you are correct mark however the neutral switch should be done as this will help the situation further. so i will be doing both.

so when we say join how do we mean rather than splice? do i cut the wire from pin 44 and join with one of the neutral switch cables, and the other to a ground on the chasis or do you use a ground from the ecu? also are the neutral switch cables poled or simply a switch and therefore it doesn't matter which way you use it? and final question lol, do you use a connector from the auto loom? or do you just simply cut off the plug and join it through?

Cut pin 44 from the loom ... Join to one terminal of the n-switch and other end of the n-switch to earth on the chassis or ECU

One other thing to note, when using the neutral switch after a conversion the amount of revs it rises by when slipped into gear will be more than if you fitted a manual chip, in fact of you fit a manual chip the timing will be at 15deg even if the neutral switch is not connected.

 

As far as any timing is concerned what ever it reads on a ConZult system is the timing it needs to be set at, seeing 25 deg and using a strobe to set it at 15deg is wrong and will give 10 deg retardation, always go with the ConZult reading and match it with the strobe light.

 

Jeff TT

How much would a manual chip cost Jeff? Thats why my idle rises when i place into gear, my ECU although chipped is from my auto before the conversion.

How much would a manual chip cost Jeff? Thats why my idle rises when i place into gear, my ECU although chipped is from my auto before the conversion.

 

You have a pm.

 

Jeff

How much would a manual chip cost Jeff? Thats why my idle rises when i place into gear, my ECU although chipped is from my auto before the conversion.

 

My manual converted tt is still running the same ecu and dta chip that was in it when it was an auto and it runs perfect, with nice idle etc.

Right this is what id did.

 

First jack the car up, while the engine was cold.

 

Undone the flap covering the ECU, unbolted the ECU from the car and remove the loom plug, found PIN 44 (Yellow cable with Thin blue stripe), followed it back as far from the ECU as i could to get a bit of length, and cut the wire.

 

From under the car, i untangled the Neutral switch cable, and joined it to some wire to extend it into the cabin, i poked a small hole in the dust boot and cable tied the extended cable to a secure location on the gearstick support so it wouldn't fowl on anything, i then poked it through the dust boot, (makes a nice seal around the cable) and fed that through and under the carpet to the ECU.

 

With one of the extended wires, i joined it to the PIN 44 cable that goes TO the ECU, using a connector, i then put the loom back onto the ECU and tightened it down, checking to see if both edges of the loom were plugged in correctly, i then mounted the ECU back onto the car, trapping the other end of the extended cable under the ECU cage, against the body work of the car, using a O connector, i then lowered the car.

 

I then started the car, and turned the PC on, and started up consults. Consults was saying "31" degrees out, i waited for the car to come up to temp (for mine 82degrees), i then took the timing light, and connected the positive to the battery, neg to the engine, and read the timing, the timing on the crank pulley was saying around 10, i turned the engine off, undid the CAS, moved it to the middle most point on the bolts, and started the engine, i checked consults again, it was saying 13 degrees, i checked the crank pulley, it was saying 13ish (no mark for 13 lol) so i tapped the CAS so with the timing light it was showing 15. i checked consults it was showing 15.

 

I turned the engine off, tightened up the bolts to the CAS, i then started the engine, checked consults it was again showing 15, i checked then crank pulley, it was still showing 15.

 

I then took my multi metre, and earthed the Neg to the engine, positive to the middle connector wire, and checked the TPS, i set this to .45 i then unplug the gray connector at the back of the Idle control valve, and left it for 10 mins with the engine running, i then (running backwards and forwards) adjusted the idle, to sit roughly 750rpm. then plugged the gray connector back in.

 

Job done.

 

The only noticeable difference is.

 

When i put the car in gear, the timing goes to 25, and the revs raise. it now doesnt seem like it wants to shut off when i put the clutch in. other than that. it runs fine.

Edited July 27, 201213 yr by vodkashots

Vods....you need to remove the yellow connector on the idle air valve when setting base idle, set idle to 650 rpm with it removed then plug it back in and the ecu will pick idle up to approx 750rpm as it takes over control of the idle speed.Grey connector is for the aircon i believe.

 

when you set the tps did you unplug the connector and then plug it back in so that the ecu registers the new tps position

Vods....you need to remove the yellow connector on the idle air valve when setting base idle, set idle to 650 rpm with it removed then plug it back in and the ecu will pick idle up to approx 750rpm as it takes over control of the idle speed.Grey connector is for the aircon i believe.

 

when you set the tps did you unplug the connector and then plug it back in so that the ecu registers the new tps position

 

i have no idea now matey, must of got the connector colour mixed up bud, it was defo the one for the idle control as the engine revs changed dramatically for a bit.

 

You understand why my memory is a bit fussy in a moment with a post im about to put up.

Vods....you need to remove the yellow connector on the idle air valve when setting base idle, set idle to 650 rpm with it removed then plug it back in and the ecu will pick idle up to approx 750rpm as it takes over control of the idle speed.Grey connector is for the aircon i believe.

 

when you set the tps did you unplug the connector and then plug it back in so that the ecu registers the new tps position

 

I take it the tps is unrealted to the idle? Ie I dont need yo do that I just need to do pin 44/ neutral blah. And reset the base idle?

I take it the tps is unrealted to the idle? Ie I dont need yo do that I just need to do pin 44/ neutral blah. And reset the base idle?

 

i would say that its worth doing both the tps and the base idle just to make sure its all spot on.did mine the other week and doesnt take long and at least you know its all set right :)

 

iirc tps position and base idle are linked in some way, so that the ecu knows the correct settings for both.