:blush:

A boost controller,really I do

I know they need t-pieced in but, do I need to disgard the original hose from the actuators,or the small hoses from the inter coolers,what size silicone hoses do I need, how many t-pieces will I need ,As I said an idiots guide

Edited July 13, 201213 yr by Tazz666

6mm hose ...

2 T pieces

2 straight

 

Take Vac lines from both ACT and T them together and connect it to the OUT port on the black unit

Take Vac lines from both Boost pipes either side of rad and T them together and connect it to the IN Port on the black unit

 

try and make all vac lines short as poss but all so the same length

Edited July 13, 201213 yr by MarkDerby

Is there just one hose going into the actuators mate?,

yes One per turbo ... u have to T both tubs together

would that be 6mm internal or external diameter?

Internal m8

Thankyou Mate you are a Gent

Ok dokey I drew this for my benifit as this is the way I take it that the blitz controller gets plumbed in,does it look about rigHt if not what else do I have to do?

does anything need capped,and what about the old hoses?

I am sorry for being a bit thick,, I just dont want to take anything off that I need,

thanks in advance

oh yeah do all the hoses need to be the same size ,even Thee ones coming from the t-piece's,going to the boost valve?

the drawing looks spot on ...

 

for All the turbo act / boost side need to be 6mm int

for the boost gauge & Control unit 4mm int

Someone should make this a sticky in the FAQ's

That drawings really cool; any chance you can scan it so it can be used as a desktop pic ?:yes:

 

 

Ok dokey I drew this for my benifit as this is the way I take it that the blitz controller gets plumbed in,does it look about rigHt if not what else do I have to do?

does anything need capped,and what about the old hoses?

I am sorry for being a bit thick,, I just dont want to take anything off that I need,

thanks in advance

I dont have a scanner but I will be happy to send it to someone who has.

once again Mark cheers,Ihave everything there to fity it now so whoo hoo!

Great drawing, will be a lot of use when i fit one! STICKY!!!!!

Nice drawing! Can't beat a bit of oldskool!

I am useing a Blitz EBC on my car I use Y connector rarther than a Tee fitting. If you are useing the single solinoid unit make the lines from the turbo actuators to the Y fitting the same equal length and the line from the valve to the Y fitting as short as you can.I mounted the valve on the firewall between the battery & the engine.My single solinoid Blitz works perfect if you need to boost over 17PSI it is advisable to use the double solinoid valve type.The Inglish instructions for the Blitz EBC can be down loaded from Blitz Web page.

I am useing a Blitz EBC on my car I use Y connector rarther than a Tee fitting. If you are useing the single solinoid unit make the lines from the turbo actuators to the Y fitting the same equal length and the line from the valve to the Y fitting as short as you can.I mounted the valve on the firewall between the battery & the engine.My single solinoid Blitz works perfect if you need to boost over 17PSI it is advisable to use the double solinoid valve type.The Inglish instructions for the Blitz EBC can be down loaded from Blitz Web page.

 

Cheers for that bud, I am running standard turbo's and injectors so I wont be boosting 17psi, the most boost I will be running is 14psi, as far as i have read 14psi is safet to run on standard injectors

I run 4 differant adjustable settins eg. #1=8PSI,#2=10PS1,#3=12PSI,#4=14PSI,with a NISTune UCU with 370 injectors and manual trans.turbos. Runs OK.

right if you have external bov's do you need to blank off the intercooler vac lines and run the vac from the bov's to the solenoid instead?????

if you have Any type of BOV/Recirculating valve they still need a Vac line to work. but they are not controlled by the EBC

so they should remain the same as