*cut and pasted from DW*

 

 

Here's a quick video clip to help explain the situation

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the white Volks are 18's and are decent enough (9j/10j ET +45) and sit pretty well but I wanted something with a lip and preferably 17's as the local tyre supplier get's a lot more 17" part worns than 18"

 

 

so I did a deal with reeperR32 on Driftworks for his 17's

 

 

 

 

 

 

I knew that being ET -7 they were going to take a bit of adjusting to get in the arches. A bit of camber on the front (9j's) sorted them but the rear arches on Z32's are lame and as expected the rear rim lip (10j) sits a good 50mm outside the arch, with the edge of the tread sitting approx 25-30mm outside the arch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I figured that I'd do the same with the rear, bring the camber in and maybe flare the arch....but there's no more camber to play with and I don't think that I'll get enough of a flare to make up the difference

 

 

It stands to reason that going for an ideal offset/width would have been the wisest move but I'm sure that there'll be some way of getting them sitting right. Preferably without having to go down the wide arch route purely because there's fook' all available for a SWB Z32

 

 

 

the other minor issue is that the front rims sit a bit further forward than previosuly, now I put this down to the fact that I've replaced all the stock components with DW adjustable kit and it hasn't gone for a wheel alignment yet but I want to get it in the general area before taking it down. What part needs adjusting to bring the front wheels back slightly so that they sit closer to the centre of the arch?

 

 

I've got a track session booked at Castle Combe early doors 12th May so need to get something sorted before then

 

 

 

 

any advice welcome :thumbup:

Re: front, the tension rods need adjusting to bring the wheel back a bit (you'll be reducing the castor)

 

Re:Rear, more stretch on the tyre and a flare should see you good, you can do the flare with a jack handle and a mate to drive it forward and back, and by the looks of your paint you won't need to bother heating it up to prevent cracking you could just sand it back and rattle over the top!

check your wheels ...

 

i got a set from a member on here and the tyres/wheels was mixed up

rear tyre on front rim

front tyre on rear rim

and it look abit like that

 

i just happend to check the wheel width and off set

and noticed that they was mixed up

cheers guys

 

I figured that it would most likely be the tension rod that was the issue, because I didn't have the problem the other week when I fitted the regular DW tension rods, it was only when I fit the DW Geomaster type (that are deliberately bent) that the problem arose :thumbup1:

 

 

I'll go check the rims now bud

 

ta

You could elongate the holes in the subframe and the top link mounting holes,to allow more camber and a scaffold tube would be better to flare the arch, seen this done on youtube.

 

Paul

Yeah scaffold tube would be good, I happen to have a nice chunky proper jack handle that does a good job....wouldn't use one of those little 'fisher price my first jack' type handle lolz. Got good smooth results on both my bimmer and the Z doing this.

Just a thought but if I removed the nut (left/pillowball end of the upper camber arm @ 0:56 of the vid) wouldn't that offer an additional 3/4 inch inner movement?

 

*eg. either replace it with a thinner nut or remove the nut completely

you can get adjustable lower arms to push the lower part out and give more camber, otherwise you kind of answered the questions yourself re correct fitment!

Looks like those tires are pretty stretched already, what size are they?

you can get adjustable lower arms to push the lower part out and give more camber, otherwise you kind of answered the questions yourself re correct fitment!

Looks like those tires are pretty stretched already, what size are they?

 

 

The lower arms are already adjustable mate?

 

all of the tyres for the rear vary between 235-255, the arches are rolled and now need to be flared however a bit of negative camber is required in order for the tyre to tuck under the arch when it's lowered a tad more

 

(0:56 of the vid demonstrates that there is no more adjustment in the upper arms hence question about replacing/removing the nut)

It would move it over but it may touch the shock.

 

Paul

I've just checked and the nut is 0.5", the gap between the strut and camber arms is just shy of 1" on full travel so should be ok. There's no way that I'd get it all done by the 12th so for now I'm going to stick with the Volks and work out clearance options for the other rims after Japfest. I've go a long list of jobs to get done and have about 9 days to get them all cracked :blink:

I cannot see how you would get them to fit unless you have a mega camber. but with the stretched tyre you will be putting a hell of a lot of pressure to the inside tyre wall. I would go for some sort of wide arch. get some universal ones that bolt on.

 

 

Skirts look good :)

I cannot see how you would get them to fit unless you have a mega camber. but with the stretched tyre you will be putting a hell of a lot of pressure to the inside tyre wall. I would go for some sort of wide arch. get some universal ones that bolt on.

 

 

Skirts look good :)

 

 

Yeah, I kind of figured that a wide arch would be needed. I popped down to see a mate this afternoon; he runs a garage in Hereford with his son. They put me in touch with a metal fabricator not too far from my place and after speaking with them on the phone, they reckon that they can sort the arches and fab some metal flares so that I can keep the lines looking fairly natural.

They can't do it for at least 4 weeks though, so it actually takes some of the pressure off now.

 

The skirts are painted and should be ready to go back on tomorrow.

 

I've arranged a meeting with a place called Clutch Clinic, I've met the owner a few times now, and he's gonna' be fitting my new clutch and prop. That at least will be a few more jobs off the list...

after a few lower arm adjustments it's looking better already. I've ordered an arch roller so that I can flare the arches..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and it's booked in for a 4 wheel alignment next Wednesday

just a tip with flaring the archs .... Warm the Metal up with Heat gun ... if u didnt all ready know thats is ..

 

but looking good m8

just a tip with flaring the archs .... Warm the Metal up with Heat gun ... if u didnt all ready know thats is ..

 

but looking good m8

 

 

Cheers bud

i had mine Rolled/Flattend and Flared just a little ...

this is pretty much exactly the amount of flare on the rear arch that I want

 

 

lol you got some work to do then .. as thats quite a lot bending its that much u may find your paint may crack

That's one of the benefits of rattle can's mate :thumbup:

 

supose but it still isnt going to look nice with cracked/flaking paint

he means he can touch it up numpty :tt2:

 

Dont get the paint to hot or it will blister and that will be a real pita to sort out.

supose but it still isnt going to look nice with cracked/flaking paint

 

that's what stickers and decals are for :thumbup:

 

 

you badge artist :thumbup1:

All sorted now...

 

1/2 degree of negative camber on the rear and just about to lower it by another 25mm (it's on bricks at the moment)

 

 

you'll need to do your camber again after you lower it ....