ok, so ive installed my electronic boost controller on the engine side of things now.

 

Its a Greddy profec B spec II

 

But either 1 of 4 things is happening.

 

OEM dump valves have the dreaded goose honk so are not coping to well with the increased boost.

 

my lock up solenoid fault on the gear box is having a detrimental effect and not putting the power through the torque converter properly.

 

Or my waist gates are opening to soon.

 

Basically with the OEM set up, you could stick your foot to the floor and apart from the goose honk, everything would boost well.

 

With the electronic boost controller installed, you stick your boot to the floor, it spools up then before the middle of the rev range is reached it sounds like something is opening up, boost drops to 0 and i can hear a very loud shhhhhhhhhhh noise like the waist gate / dump valve has opened and you can hear the turbo pushing air through the exhaust / air rushing past the dump valve, the other thing is the engine revs climb but there is no acceleration happening, as if the torque converter just isnt sticking the power through the gearbox to the rear wheels could that be due to the lock up solenoid fault?

 

This is with the boost controller set at what is recommended for OEM settings

 

boost im looking for is 10 psi to start with so ive set it to 7psi, 3 short of what i want to achive as per posts ive read.

 

This is my setting so far, ive tried playing with the gain, but still not really sure about it all due to 3 settings to change, also where the manual and also people on here have said about boost spiking, ive google and youtubed searched, but still cant figure out what a boost spike is. also did the same for boost surge so have no idea if that's what its doing. i know i really need to replace my dumb valves as they are shot to hell by the sounds of the goose honk.

 

Set 40%

Gain 5 %

Set Gain 7 psi (desired amount minus around 4 psi)

Warning 14 psi

Limiter 1%

 

any help would be appreciated, also another thing, as ive got a Auto, i cant stick it into 3rd and test it properly, as even if i let the engine change up into 3rd the moment you give WOT it kicks down.

you have the controller set to internal wast gate not external right ?

 

boost spike is where the boost go's up very fast and it will over shoot the set psi for 1/2sec and will drop down

all so your Boost limiter will kick it and open up the wast gate to drop boost this will feel like a surging affect

Edited April 12, 201213 yr by MarkDerby

You sure the honking is your dump valves? Honking is usually valve's somewhere else which may well interfere with boost pressure giving you problems.

its plumbed in correctly, i made sure of that, so its set to actuator type, which is correct.

 

IE same as in this image.

 

 

as i used this image as well as the installation manual

so what happens if you turn your boost down a little does the honking go and respond ok ?

its on stock boost with the settings i put up, as im yet to tune it, but with the goose honk, only way i can get rid of that is if i dont stick my foot to the floor and boost at around 5 PSI using just accelerator control.

have you bypassed the boost protect solenoids or are they still connected ...

if they are unplug them and give it a try

you mean the OEM boost control valves just about the turbos? they are still plugged in based on JeffTT's recommendation to someone else in another thread. but the boost control solenoid thats mounted to the inner wing on the drivers side is unplugged.

 

Its not the boosting thats the problem, its like the boost comes on instantly, but then before the cars changed gear, you hear a shhhhhhhhh sound like the turbos spooling but pushing vast amounts of air past the waist gate, the boost gauge drops to 0 for atmos pressure, there doesn't seem to be the distinctive pushed back in your seat feeling you get with normal boost, the engine revs rise fast, but the torque converter just doesn't seem to want to stick the power to the rear wheels, hard to explain think ill get the mrs in the car tomorrow and take it for a drive up to santa pod and get a video of it on private ground so you can hear what i mean, hopefully my phone will pick up the sound, it is very loud lol

 

If i put my foot down genitally and raise the boost with out using wide open throttle, it will boost to around 10psi and propel you forward fantastically but its a gradual increase of boost.

Edited April 12, 201213 yr by vodkashots

Iain, i found this guide far far more user friendly, can i suggest you follow this guide to the letter, i did and it worked well. So for you it will be a snip.

 

 

http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/profecb2/profecb.htm

 

Sayers

Sounds like you have a boost leak that only shows up over 10psi, as the boost rises much quicker it then leaks from wherever and dumps all of the boost and hence the 0 psi, most common place for this type of leak is the intercooler cuffs been pushed away at the higher boost.

 

Goose honk is not the problem just a sympton of having an induction kit fitted.

 

Jeff

Edited April 12, 201213 yr by JeffTT

Sounds like you have a boost leak that only shows up over 10psi, as the boost rises much quicker it then leaks from wherever and dumps all of the boost and hence the 0 psi, most common place for this type of leak is the intercooler cuffs been pushed away at the higher boost.

 

Goose honk is not the problem just a sympton of having an induction kit fitted.

 

Jeff

 

hmm how would i check for that when driving lol, looks like i might have to buy one of them boost leak tests.

Worth doing a detailed inpection of all the pipe connections you can access, as I said the intercooler ones are a good place to start.

 

Jeff

think ill start with those ones you posted up recently, think ill get some new jubilee clips as well and just replace the old one incase they are slipping