Unfortunately my engine seems to have gone bang at a rolling road session. The tuning guy was revving the engine and he detected detonation. Reduced the boost by 0.1bar and still no high revs. Then big puff of dark smoke from the n/s exhaust and would not rev past 4000rpm. Jeff took out the plugs and 5 of them had no top metal bar. New plugs in and the engine was idling really lumpy and ticking badly too. I have taken the car to get the compression tested but it looks like some damage up top. Assuming the head needs to come off and some work has to happen - what are my options for more performance on the rebuild?

 

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"Polished on drive"

"Dirty at 156mph"

---------------

Z first and anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time!

John Newcomb (NukeEm)

www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt

John, personally, and I am no expert by a long way..in fact struggling novice at best..but i think its a no brainer to go for the forged pistons, especially when they have to be replaced. bet you are seriously relieved about those turbos! i have myself just forked out 1300 for new ones.

 

steve

John defo go for forged Pistons, you can ran higher boost more safely with these Warren has got set in his engine

try this link http://www.stillen.com/sportscars_detail.asp?cat=2&subcat=201&id=14111&page=4

Is there definitely no turbo damage ? What happened to the bits of valve head ?

 

Ok if you really want to push the envelop on HP this is what i would get if you can afford it !

 

 

Replace the lifters - the stock ones get worse with age - lot of money but worth it while the engine is stripped.

 

Get the forged pistons if you wanna run high boost - but be prepared for what the changes to the pistons might have on your compression ratio and thus your turbos ! You may also need some head work to match the compression ratio of the piston you choose so be carefull in your choice.

 

Get the Z31 Bearings they are stronger will provide a bit more security.

 

get JUN valve springs if you can afford them.

 

Get the crank deburred and polished.

 

get a 5 angle valve job if you can trust in the engineer you can also do some minor porting / port matching to the lower intake manifold and heads

 

Dont bother thinking of over boreing unless you want a real workshop queen far to many things to go wrong and too much chance of a botch job !

 

Think about Rods for extra insurance and also you might wanna cryo treat things such as Crank, rods, and pistons and Gold coat the pistons for extra heat resistance

 

This is ontop of or instead of the items you listed ! - You obviously dont need everything there but the sky is the limit with that job ! It is the maximum i would reccomend doing thos Anyone tells you to do anymore i would severly doubt you will enjoy it or need it ! And of course the most important thing is - there is no point changing anything above stock if THE PLACE THAT IS DOING THE WORK IS INCOMPEDENT !!!!

 

 

Hope that helps

 

 

 

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Z ya

 

Nico91TT

 

 

God is coming ...and he dont have stock turbos . . .

Added up the costs of a rebuild and had to sit down with a drink. I was offered a couple of second hand engines and have chosen a 1994 UK TT engine, that is now on its way to the garage. Car should be up and running again in a week or so.

How much was the rebuild price John? how much are u paying for the 2nd hand engine?

Rebuild £3000 whereas using a secondhand engine £2500. This includes all labour, delivery & machining costs. But the biggest factor is that my engine is 1991 import 110k miles and overstressed against a 1994 UK 70k miles standard engine that has not been drgged or modified.

Yeah and so for an extra 500 squid youd have a new engine over a 70 k old engine?

 

John go for the REbuild engine for the extra £500, a rebuilt engine will be far better then a second hand low miler!

John who were you going to get to do the engine rebuild. My engine went bang after a "service" at the local Nissan agent.

John that is rediculous, Bob Ford at Arriva Nissan in Peterborough offered me a brand new out the factory Z32 engine for 4.5K. If it was me facing 3K rebuild on a 110K engine I would say sod that and buy a new unit!!!

 

Nico paid 7.5K I think for a brand spanker years ago, that offer made to me around March time 2001 so if you rang him up he might even give you more off!!!

 

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[This message has been edited by Timmy_Turbo (edited 26-06-2002).]

Yes MAC the new Nissan engine is available my Nelson checked and Holland have one on a shelf for £4500. Trouble is I paid out a lot at the beginning of the year on turbos, injectors and gearbox, etc, etc and can't afford running to a new engine at the moment and to be honest if I could afford it I would probably go for a short block from Stillen with all the hard upgarde work already done. The cost for rebuilding my engine seemed ok until I thought about the fact that I would be rebuilding a 1991/110k mile engine, I decided that a complete 1994/70k engine for £1200 and then swap all the performance bits using the best ancilliaries from both would be a better bet in the short term. It also means I get back on the road in 10/14 days. I intend to get the old engine strpped down over the next couple of years and slowly invest in getting the rebuild done following the suggestions by Nico for forged pistons, angled valve, blah, blah, I don't understand half of it but it sounded good. Will shove it in the back of the garage for a few months and then speak to SE Nissan or someone recommended off here to take on the rebuild work. But I just can't wait months to be back driving it so in goes a s/hand lump.

 

[This message has been edited by jvnewcomb1961 (edited 27-06-2002).]

Only thing I'd say is that mileage is not a good way to judge the condition of an engine The car could have had 70k miles of redline driving etc. It could also have been badly run-in, badly serviced etc...

 

What kind of warranty are they offering on the work???

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

The engine comes from a car purchased and maintained with the support of Mike Feeney (MJP Autos) and is from a stock car that he says ran well and was not abused. The swap is being done by my local Nissan garage and as such they warranty their workmanship. I have never had any problem with them so far and the service manager is a friend. Money - timing - trust - guess - hope!

Haven't been let down by Mike Feeney yet so sounds like a good idea. Cheers - Gio

 

(if you want a bright side to look at, my mate's BMW M3 with 30k miles on the clock is just having it's second rebuild this year because BMW main dealer screwed up twice! I know BMW are picking up the tab but the cost is much much more than yours.)

Engine swap completed! Road tested ok. So will be picking it up tonight.

 

Whilst it was out of action had an automatic gearbox oil cooler, front strut brace and adjustable front/rear sway bars fitted.

 

Now waiting for the larger intercoolers, underdrive pulleys/belts and cryo front brake discs to arrive ready for when it goes back in for an oil change the week before JAE.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and nice comments.

JN

 

------------------

"Before it blew up"

"Dirty at 156mph!"

---------------

Z first and anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time!

John Newcomb (NukeEm)

www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt

Good to see it back John and I've got an image in my head of you smiling again! Gotta be good. Nice one mate.

 

 

 

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I can't wait till tonight when I go to get it back, hope its washed, I have missed it so much. The micra courtesy car they gave me is a cracking little car but damn it rattles and shakes at 115mph downhill with a tail wind on the M1.

 

I get to go to the Derby meet in my car - YES THERE TRULY IS A GOD AND HE LIKES THE Z32!

 

------------------

"Clean and back on the road again"

"Dirty and fun at 156mph!"

---------------

Z first, anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time with a stupid grin!

John Newcomb (NukeEm) www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt

 

[This message has been edited by jvnewcomb1961 (edited 11-07-2002).]

Hooray - first K$SH and now you. Nice to hear some good news for a change

nice one john, i know exacly how you feel mate, i waited 8 weeks to get my motor back, but its worth it. enjoy

 

steve

JV,

 

If you want a proper engine rebuild in the future goto CTM, and ask for Charlie.

 

He rebuilds all the F3, FORD RALLY, and Formula FORD engines. Give him you engine once the racing season has started, otherwise you wont get it done.

 

Ask for fully ported, polished heads, with stainless steel one piece valves. If you want cams, give him the cams at the same time, and he will match the heads to the cams. Also all the inlets, and exhaust manifolds should be ported and polished while your there.

 

Bottom end, go for TOTAL SEAL PISTON rings, and Forge pistons. MAHLE are very good, and are used by PORSCHE AND FERRARI. Crank should just be balanced, and knife edged.

 

Your AUTO, but if manual I would then go for a lightened flywheel.

 

To finish off, get larger intercoolers (see Warren or PACE), and a LINK engine management with MAP sensors instead of the MAS.

 

Leigh

 

 

JV,

 

If you want a proper engine rebuild in the future goto CTM, and ask for Charlie.

 

He rebuilds all the F3, FORD RALLY, and Formula FORD engines. Give him you engine once the racing season has started, otherwise you wont get it done.

 

Ask for fully ported, polished heads, with stainless steel one piece valves. If you want cams, give him the cams at the same time, and he will match the heads to the cams. Also all the inlets, and exhaust manifolds should be ported and polished while your there.

 

Bottom end, go for TOTAL SEAL PISTON rings, and Forge pistons. MAHLE are very good, and are used by PORSCHE AND FERRARI. Crank should just be balanced, and knife edged.

 

Your AUTO, but if manual I would then go for a lightened flywheel.

 

To finish off, get larger intercoolers (see Warren or PACE), and a LINK engine management with MAP sensors instead of the MAS.

 

Leigh

 

 

JV,

 

If you want a proper engine rebuild in the future goto CTM, and ask for Charlie.

 

He rebuilds all the F3, FORD RALLY, and Formula FORD engines. Give him you engine once the racing season has started, otherwise you wont get it done.

 

Ask for fully ported, polished heads, with stainless steel one piece valves. If you want cams, give him the cams at the same time, and he will match the heads to the cams. Also all the inlets, and exhaust manifolds should be ported and polished while your there.

 

Bottom end, go for TOTAL SEAL PISTON rings, and Forge pistons. MAHLE are very good, and are used by PORSCHE AND FERRARI. Crank should just be balanced, and knife edged.

 

Your AUTO, but if manual I would then go for a lightened flywheel.

 

To finish off, get larger intercoolers (see Warren or PACE), and a LINK engine management with MAP sensors instead of the MAS.

 

Leigh

 

 

glad your back on the road now john

 

hope youre a little happier now - even if youre a little more skint!

 

------------------

I feel the need, the need for speed!

 

Car is great. The new engine is sooooo much smoother than the old one. Pulls better from low revs too. Keeping my boost at 14.5psi until the new intercoolers arrive and then get it tuned and set up by SE Nissan.

A very happy man see you all at either Supercar Sunday at Gaydon (Sunday) or JAE @ Billing (2wks).

 

------------------

"Before it blew up"

"Dirty at 156mph!"

---------------

Z first and anything else is secondary and live life a quarter mile at a time!

John Newcomb (NukeEm)

www.geocities.com/jn300zxtt