I knew this wasn't going to be a straight forward out and in job...#

 

 

The DW HICAS kit was previously fitted to the LWB, and the bushes are still fitted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

am I likely to be able to get these out intact or do I need to replace them, they haven't been used just fitted

 

 

 

also the OEM bushes on the shortie' need to come out but they're still on the car and I dont really want to be removing hubs/knuckles etc, so what's the best way to get them out?

 

I've searched and found loads of tips on how to drill them out, burn them out etc but want to use the simplest and least '****upable' method

Attempted to fit my Driftworks Hicas eliminator last week, but the balljoints were solid in the hub so left it for another day!.going to press them out with the hubs off when I di my suspension arms as its looks as though theres a good chance of buggering something up trying to do it with the hubs on.

Its a case of grinder and cut the end off then hammer out. Some heat would help the job but they are a pain to get out.

Its a case of grinder and cut the end off then hammer out. Some heat would help the job but they are a pain to get out.

 

 

and it was all going so well :headvswal

what about c-clamp with a socket head?

Now you know i'm no mechanic but wouldn't something like this work?

 

http://www.toolprofessional.net/B0002SRGXY/M/B0002SRGXY.htm

 

Using this kind of principle;

 

I await being told what a numpty I am :scooter:

The only reason to grind the end off is you can't really get a hammer in from the other side to knock it out. Or get a hydraulic press as them things are damn tight in there

DW bushes should come out easy. Push the metal inner out first then the two halves should come out easy. Nissan OEM balljoints were a different matter. I took the hubs off to do it and used a press...easiest way (not shortest though!)

DW bushes should come out easy. Push the metal inner out first then the two halves should come out easy. Nissan OEM balljoints were a different matter. I took the hubs off to do it and used a press...easiest way (not shortest though!)

 

 

Easy when you know how, cheers mate

 

 

I used a stubby nut and bolt just to give me something to tap

 

took all of 30 seconds each side...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

now the OEM bushes....hmnn, not so simple I think

 

 

Looking inside there it appears to be threaded, can these just be un-screwed rather than getting a grinder on it???

 

 

 

 

 

you could try putting a 10mm bolt through and a big socket at one end with a large washer and nut a keep cranking the nut and see if it will pull the bolt and bush through. spray it with wd40 first.just a suggestion but worth a try mate.

Well I've had another go and still nothing, can't actually remove the HICAS arm (is it threaded on?)

 

This is a 1995 SWB (electric HICAS) and the ball joint on this looks completely different to those on my 1991 UK spec LWB (hydraulic HICAS)

 

are the later models ball joints configured differently?

The thread inside the ball joint is just for the end plate to screw on so the ball joint can't 'fall out of the hub' (yeah, like that's likely to happen eh?). They are an utterly royal pain in the arse tho, I managed one using the grind off the end and bash it through method, but for the other side I removed the hub (easier than you think IF you can get the big nut off the end of the drive shaft, if you really can't, you can undo the drive shaft from the diff, just mark it so it goes back on it the same place) and took it to my mates and used his hydraulic press, was off in less than 5 minutes... You could also try grinding off the end and using an air chisel/hammer to knock it out, would be easier than swinging a lump hammer about...

 

No idea about the HICAS end as I've never seen the electric set up...

The thread inside the ball joint is just for the end plate to screw on so the ball joint can't 'fall out of the hub' (yeah, like that's likely to happen eh?). They are an utterly royal pain in the arse tho, I managed one using the grind off the end and bash it through method, but for the other side I removed the hub (easier than you think IF you can get the big nut off the end of the drive shaft, if you really can't, you can undo the drive shaft from the diff, just mark it so it goes back on it the same place) and took it to my mates and used his hydraulic press, was off in less than 5 minutes... You could also try grinding off the end and using an air chisel/hammer to knock it out, would be easier than swinging a lump hammer about...

 

No idea about the HICAS end as I've never seen the electric set up...

 

 

 

Cheers mate,

 

I've just been out and bought some 'tools' so tomorrow....it's war!!

As others have said on here its alot easier if you dismantle the hubs and press the bushes out.Ive done a few now and you can waste hours wacking your fingers and learning new swear words when it would take max 30mins to remove the hub.I tried the hammering out method and almost flattend my fingers with the hammer.Lee

I've taken to it with the grinder now and most of it has come away now, though I'm still struggling to get the inner piece out

 

I'm considering just giving up on this and replacing the stock hubs with DW Geomaster2's

They are a pig of a job to do. Its the hardest job i have ever done on a zed. would much prefer a plenum pull anyday :)

to change these bushes is easy if you have oxy bottles just warm arm up and the tap out no problem alloy expands before steel, then clean bore and pull new ones through with threadded bolt and grease

;)

rich

to change these bushes is easy if you have oxy bottles just warm arm up and the tap out no problem alloy expands before steel, then clean bore and pull new ones through with threadded bolt and grease

;)

rich

 

Would a regular blow torch work?

Its much easier with hubs off the car and just grind the edges off, heat the bushes and pull as much of the crap out as possible the get the biggest iron pole you can find and a sledge hammer and smash the rest out. first one too me 3 hours to do and pleanty of swearing second one too ten minutes.