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Have already done a couple of the targa drain tech write ups but having done another zed today on the drivers side I took a few more pics this time and with more details so here we go...again, hope it will be of help.

 

This particular zed had a very wet set of carpets and as a consequence has suffered from floor corrosion so it was of importance to stop the water ingress as well as repairing the floor.

 

Both of the targa drain pipes had become disconnected due to shrinking back of the pipe that then causes the exit rubber end to become detached and any water going down the targa drains to end up inside of the cabin, this can result in all sort of electrical issues as the fuse box gets soaked as well as a series of connectors down there.

 

So with the fuse box removed you see this......

 

fuseboxremoved.jpg

 

Push back the loom....

 

pushbackloom.jpg

 

No you can see the pipe end and the hole where the rubber end should go to, the rubber end was already removed at the point......

 

holeandpipeend.jpg

 

Here we can see the rubber end drain that fits to the end of the targa drain pipe, although the real issue was it was disconnected it was in fact also blocked, so before it came detached the water would have been backing up within the pipe.

 

pipeend.jpg

 

pipeendd.jpg

 

So back to the top of the A frame and with the inside trim removed you can see the targa pipe connection to the roof drain, this now needs disconnecting

 

disconnectpipe.jpg

 

Now carefully push the pipe down the A frame whilst pulling the pipe at the lower end.

 

pushpipedown.jpg

 

 

Once the pipe is part way down the A frame stop, do not go to far down as it can be a pain to fish it back up.

 

pipeendtop.jpg

 

So now the bottom of the pipe is more accessible to work on.

 

pipeendbottom.jpg

 

With the rubber drain cleaned and glued in place a cable tie is attached for double connection.

 

cabletie.jpg

 

..............

Edited by JeffTT

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Continued ....

 

After the pipe is pulled back up the rubber drain can be passed through the side panel, its has a rib in the rubber which is very easy to locate and secure.

 

complete.jpg

 

No back up to the top you can see how short the pipe had become by shrinking

 

shortpipe.jpg

 

Cut the pipe half way down and insert a small metal pipe section, this will give you the extra pipe length to connect the pipe at the top of the A frame.

 

joined.jpg

 

So there you have it, you can always pull a new pipe through to save inserting the pipe connector, but have done these many times and is very easy, replacing the fuse box, accelerator cable and bonnet pull lever is a breeze now and all done.

 

Have fun and one thing to do before you start this job is remove the seat because unless your 2 foot tall you will need a new back after!!

 

Jeff TT

thats great Jeff thanks for posting, very informative and something I desperately need to check on mine! Is the A pillar gauge full of water?

Good thread Jeff a great fix for a problem that would really be a pain,water leaks are awful.Takes me back to my old ford damp carpet days :yes:,is it easy to puncture the drain tube when fitting those pods,it seems that cars that have those always drip water in when it rains.Ive never fitted a set but have noticed they screw to the A pillar where that tube runs.

You must be doing these on a weekly basis Jeff!

 

I noticed on mine there is another drain that runs down the door pillar, do you get many problems with them or more the front?

Another great write up Jeff! Fixed mine last year following your previous thread... My fuse box was wet causing the left hand side indicators to come on by them self and stay on not flashing... Of course the battery was flat the next day when I would try to go to work cause they came on by themself overnight!! Lots of hissing by the fusebox... While replacing the targa drain hose, took the fusebox out and dried it gently with a hair dryer... 12 Months on and still ok!!

Another top write up jeff. I did the same. glue and used a lip. Its not a job i want to do twice for the hell of it lol!!!

but haveing this problem only once is sooooo worth it when it comes to summer :tt2:

Jeff as that's artztogos car (can tell by his foot pedals and his sticky on air freshener on the dash lol), did you find out what was causing his gauges to fill with water as well? as he had that problem and we never did find the cause

id asume it was the same issue ian? this hole targas draining into the sill jeff how does taht work? do they literally drain intpo the cavity or do they pass through?

id asume it was the same issue ian? this hole targas draining into the sill jeff how does taht work? do they literally drain intpo the cavity or do they pass through?

 

 

the water comes out from behind the wing and makes its own way out.

Jeff as that's artztogos car (can tell by his foot pedals and his sticky on air freshener on the dash lol), did you find out what was causing his gauges to fill with water as well? as he had that problem and we never did find the cause

 

I bet it will be his top taga strip hasnt been siliconed down. the water can get under it and it runs down the A piller and into the guages.

 

There normally not stuck down after its had a respray etc.

 

no my names not Jeff :lol::lol:

haha it doesnt count if you dont tyake them yourself get out there in that dark welsh night get on your knees and photograph the inside of your sills which if i rember right are filled up with oil tar and other stuff you found in your shed! hahahaha

:lol::lol:

 

yeah i put oil in. going to waxoil everything soon. doing a wide arch so i need to just the rear arches, Its good because i can get inside of the skins and do a proper pucker job.

 

It will be emune to rusr soon :cool3:

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