well wasn't going to post till my overheating problem solve was at least a week old, but now have a problem, cars been fine for the past 3 and a half days, no over heating, can run above 50 and even boost with no problems whats so ever, but about half hour ago, my eng cont fuse in the engine bay (main fuse box) keeps blowing on me.

 

any ideas? only thing i did was fiddle with my boost gauge (aftermarket thats plumbed into the dash) area as it was no longer changing color.

 

is there anything in that area that is on the same circuit as the engine cont fuse.

 

is it safe to drive with it blown? the engine wants to die on idle but that can be countered by giving it a few revs, i also get the LIGHTS and DIFF OIL light light up on the dash when the fuse is blown, but by all accounts when driving shes fine, only when she returns to idle does she want to die and even then, its only sometimes.

Is the gauge now working?

If not, I would disconnect it's live at source to see if there is a short causing the fuse to blow.

Is the gauge now working?

If not, I would disconnect it's live at source to see if there is a short causing the fuse to blow.

 

would that even blow the fuse? all the LED's that illuminate the gauges work, id have thought that a short in the system would just kill the lights to them.

 

the gauge is supposed to change color when you press a little button on the face, but its not doing it now, but it hasn't been doing that for a few days now.

 

looks like im going to have to get the multimeter out at some point, but the service manual is saying there are a lot of circuits on that one fuse.

 

confusing thing, think i might check the rear of the fuse box tomorrow see if im getting water from the targas on the back.

I had the old 'water on the connectors' thing on the passenger side (bigtime targa drain problem) and had allsorts of strange electrical goings on!.

When that fuse blows im sure the alternator plays up so be careful you dont get a flat battery mate.

I dont think your ment to own a zed lol!!

weres the eng cont fuse on the drawing?

weres the eng cont fuse on the drawing?

 

If im reading this correct, then the fuse is located at the tip of the arrow, though im sure it says 13A, which would indicate a 13amp fuse surely, but there isn't a 13a fuse in cars. (can be found on page 72 of the electrical section of the service manual. really not sure what to check or where to check for continuity though, car can be driven just likes to die, i dont loose any lights or anything, i just end up with LIGHTS and DIFF OIL lights lit on the dash cluster and the car idles at around 640rpm and wants to cut out.

 

 

I dont think your ment to own a zed lol!!

 

ive wondered the same mate i really have.

Edited December 17, 201114 yr by vodkashots

would seem im on my own with this problem :(

 

I suppose the only logical thing to do with this car is strip it and get some new looms, what with wing mirrors not working, the ISO lead for the sterio chopped, the intermitant wipers not working and other dodgy wiring thats happened to this car.

The wasp was similar mate, Rose would be driving along and the wipers would stop working altogether, the dash lights would go out, light bulbs would just randomly go pop or 'disconnect' themelves, it was ridiculous. One day we went looking for the wiper fault, because it stayed persitently, we never actually found what was wrong, we just took it all apart and put it all back together and it worked, lol.

and other dodgy wiring thats happened to this car.

 

feel your pain there, mine is just mental.

feel your pain there, mine is just mental.

 

well the wing mirrors have been cut at the switch for some strange reason, the radio loom is the same, for some reason it was butchered even though i have touch screen in that doesnt even use it, the front side lights are wired in in what can only be described as "bodged" and im surprised they even work.

 

Only saving grace is the new ECU loom for the coil packs and injectors.

 

the gauges for the dash really need re-doing as its just a mess, the drivers electric seat was taking a feed from the ciggy lighter circuit :blink: as in spliced in, there is a multi charger powering the rear amps from the ciggy circuit as well but i haven't figured out how to take that out yet and keep the amp powered.

 

its just one big ball ache. there is more that needs sorting electrical wise, I've tidied up as much as i can and made it safer, but really the car needs rewiring if im honest.

 

Sod knows what one of the last owners was thinking unless he liked driving around in a zed that could potentially catch fire at any given minute.

 

To top it off, although i changed my gearbox fuse that was down in the foot well and got my gears back, the cause of its blowing is totally unknown as it was blown before i got the car, so have no idea on the circumstances surrounding its downfall.

Must have been the same owner mate, all the interior is coming out of mine to remove all unnessessary extra wiring. Thats as soon as it gets back from Jimmer

Must have been the same owner mate, all the interior is coming out of mine to remove all unnessessary extra wiring. Thats as soon as it gets back from Jimmer

 

seems a few Australian owners have suffered the same

 

Engine control fuse supplies power to the following:

 

O2 sensors

VTC solenoids

IACV, this is why your car almost stalls at start up.

AAC

FCID

Boost gauge

 

 

my dash cluster boost gauge has never worked (aftermarket does though), o2 sensors are unplugged as they need replacing, VTC's could be as i had a pipe burst near the drivers side VTC solenoid, if its the Idle Air Control Valve, damn it i sold my last one to car.mad some time ago but i doubt its that, as the car idles fine if the fuse is replaced before it blows again.

 

Cant figure out what the FCID is lol

Ian buddy,

 

Why don,t you just sell it or break it mate,,,,,, it all looks good from the outside but it,s hiding sooooooooooo many probs, go take someone with you that really know,s Zed,s mate and get a good one

 

Cheerz

Ian buddy,

 

Why don,t you just sell it or break it mate,,,,,, it all looks good from the outside but it,s hiding sooooooooooo many probs, go take someone with you that really know,s Zed,s mate and get a good one

 

Cheerz

 

because by the time ive got through all these problems, ill have a car that shouldn't go wrong for 20 years lol

 

Just want to add, the electrical aspect was hidden, i do not think taking someone with me would reveal that, unless i stripped out the interior to check, not only that the car was gained from helping someone else out as i was fed up with seeing them by a fooked zed. so i know it had issues, anyway most of these issues (apart from the over heating one) are not engine killers, so yeah it does have a few issues, but what car doesnt. they are repairable, which is what im doing, just nice to ask to see if anyone else has had the same issue and rectify them, so i have a port of call to start me off.

 

In my zed ownership, I've over come a lot of issues that others would of done what you said, sold or broke the car, but I've over come them and my knowledge of the zed has grown that much better.

 

Yes its a pain in the ass when you fix one thing and something else pops up, but then I've thought about splitting it, I've thought and very nearly did sell it, but then better the devil you know. if i get another zed its an unknown, not everyone is truthful about the problems with the cars they are selling, at least i know what the issues are with this one so can tackle them one by one until they are fixed.

Edited December 17, 201114 yr by vodkashots

from what i can make out id say it powers the bulb check relay which looks like it switches the fuel injection system which would explain your idle problems i guess, it looks like it feeds a lot more than that though as its also looped to another 40 amp fuse ill trace that through in a min it could be as simple as the relay coil is knackered as thats all that fuse feeds by the look of it

from what i can make out id say it powers the bulb check relay which looks like it switches the fuel injection system which would explain your idle problems i guess, it looks like it feeds a lot more than that though as its also looped to another 40 amp fuse ill trace that through in a min it could be as simple as the relay coil is knackered as thats all that fuse feeds by the look of it

 

copied from the Aus site

 

Engine control fuse supplies power to the following:

 

O2 sensors

VTC solenoids

IACV, this is why your car almost stalls at start up.

AAC

FCID

Boost gauge

 

 

going to check my VTC solenoid on the drivers side of the engine tomorrow, i had the black sealant come away when the rear pipe split to do with the over heating problem, so that might be shorting something.

 

looks like the eng cont fuse does a lot more than whats shown in that diagram.

ok i rekon check the smaller connector of the two connectors that go into the warning lamp part of the circut ( bottom right ) as if the wires on that were shorting youd get all the lamps you mentioned light up when you replaced that 13amp fuse also there must be a problem with the bulb check relay as unless theres something else being fed off of the fuse thats not on the drawing the relay coil is the only thing being powered by that 13amp fuse

ahh that sounds about right 13a fuse is a lot just for a relay coil lol

ok i rekon check the smaller connector of the two connectors that go into the warning lamp part of the circut ( bottom right ) as if the wires on that were shorting youd get all the lamps you mentioned light up when you replaced that 13amp fuse also there must be a problem with the bulb check relay as unless theres something else being fed off of the fuse thats not on the drawing the relay coil is the only thing being powered by that 13amp fuse

 

thing is its not a 13amp fuse in the engine bay, its a 10amp and even says so on the lid, lol bloody stupid cars.

ha typical weve got no hope if the drawings ain't even close!!! lol

ha typical weve got no hope if the drawings ain't even close!!! lol

 

well, my hunch is its water related, either from the burst pipe or water on the back of the fuse box. i shall find out tomorrow if my hunch is correct.

To be honest, carrying on from the sell it/break it talk, your 100% right.

Buying another "unknown" car, might cost a few quid because it looks like a good car, but might have all the same problems and cost you even more in the long run.

I admire your determination, i would have set fire to it by now. Once done, you will have 1 very nice, well sorted zed.

 

Now get on with it!!

Found and fixed the problem

 

 

 

Must of knocked the VTC solenoid connection when i had to do the water pipes at the rear of the engine, i found it melted to the turbo. rewired it, but its only a temporary fix until i can get a new connector for it. but no more blown fuse and cars now back to running correctly :D