Took the Zed for its MOT today and all passed:dance:, however found a small leak from the water pump.

 

Is this a DIY job? Is there a 'how to' guide anywhere?

You have to take the cam belt off, which means rad out, pipes off, fan off, belts off, PTU off, cam covers off. About a 4 or 5 hour job if you've never done any of it before and don't have anyone helping, then a couple of hours putting it back together.

Don't forget the crank pulley. lol

 

As mentioned it's a long job but straight forward. Just make sure that you don't move any of the cam sprockets or the crank. If you do you'll have to re do the timing as well, otherwise the belt can go back on as is.

Don't forget the crank pulley. lol

 

As mentioned it's a long job but straight forward. Just make sure that you don't move any of the cam sprockets or the crank. If you do you'll have to re do the timing as well, otherwise the belt can go back on as is.

 

Although it's usually recommended to change the belt and tensioners at the same time to save having to do it again and if it's an old belt or unknown when it was last changed, even more so! :D

Bugger!!

How much should I be paying for a new water pump?

 

If I was to put it in gear with the handbrake on, would that ensure that the cams would not move? Or is there a better way of locking them down?

 

I have a GReddy timing belt which is quite new so that should be ok. May be worth changing the others though.

Although there are ways of stopping the cams moving using clamps, it's my experience that they always move, that said, setting the timing isn't that hard on these if you know what your'e doing. Your solution would stop the crank moving (Putting it in gear with the handbrake on), but that's unlikely to move anyway, the cams are almost spring loaded because of the nature of cams, so they will most likely move. Not a clue how much a new water pump would be, best bet is to ask Mr.F from MJP trading, he has a section on here in the traders section where you can start a post and he'll reply.

ooohhh, this isnt sounding like a job for me after all.

 

Need to find someone that knows what they are doing I think :blink:

ooohhh, this isnt sounding like a job for me after all.

 

Need to find someone that knows what they are doing I think :blink:

 

Best bet is to contact JeffTT at Zedworld mate.....

 

Richard:wink:

Pump replacement is quite straight forward and the timing belt doesnt need touching,just make sure any antifreeze is cleaned off it.The biggest head ache is undoing the crank pulley bolt tbh.They can be quite tight unless you have an air gun.

That said if unknown history of the cambelt fitted, you'd be nuts not to do it at the same time as everything is removed and the cost of an OEM belt is not major.

Fixed pricing on this job i think at zedworld which is probably by now their speciality job.

smithy

He did say he had a new greddy timing belt fitted but as you say Paul other components may need doing if the last place didnt do the entire package.Jeff does keep all the timing belt associated components on the shelf as he does so many :thumbup:.

I would take it straight to Zed World but im in Hertfordshire and thats a long drive with nothing to do there while I wait. Need someone in my neck of the woods really.....

first off you do not need to remove the cambelt. step by step guide coming up

 

first drain the coolent system.

 

undo front water pipes

remove the throttle body pipes to gain more room

remove the radiator

remove the fan and clutch from the front of the water pump

remove the alt belt, A/C belt, Water pump belt from the lower crank pulley

Remove the PTU from the front of the cambelt covers and unclip the temp sensor, temp sender plugs from the top water pipe, remove the CAS connector and move the loom out the way

Now remove the 2 front water pipes

Remove the top cambelt covers

You will need to remove the lower crank pulley, if you have an auto and are struggling to get the bolt on the crank pulley undone, using a breaker bar and 27mm socket, put the socket on the nut and wedge the breaker bar against the cross member of the car on the left hand side as you look at the engine, now with key in ignition, turn it as if starting the engine and let it crank for a split second to crack the bolt to start undoing. (do not KEEP cranking as if trying to start the car the moment you hear it stop)

Using a pulley puller, remove the lower crank pulley and then remove the lower cambelt cover

 

You will now have access to the water pump bolts, there are 5 in total, make sure you remove the old gunk used to seal the water pump and water pipes from the front of the engine.

 

put a towel over your cambelt at the bottom of the engine when removing the water pump as when removed, it will empty the remainder of what was left in the engine and you dont want coolent on your cambelt.

 

Use a good liquid gasket rated for -50 to +250 degrees and apply a thin slug around the contact face of the new water pump making sure to fill the channels in the water pump and then put on then put on the car and bolt in a zigzag pattern to the correct torque

 

Putting it back together is a reversal of taking it apart

 

Things that You should change while stripped

 

Thermostat

2 x rubber water pipes that go from the top of the block to the top water pipe

and if you haven't had your cambelt changed in a while, do your cambelt (jeffTT has put a cambelt change post up)

 

Hope that helps

 

You will need a breaker bar for this job, so its easier to crack the bolts holding the water pipes on.

 

make sure you use a OEM water pump and OEM thermos and make sure the thermos goes on with the correct orientation.

 

once the cars been put back together, i suggest waiting 24 hours before refilling the system to allow the sealant to dry.

 

When filling with coolent, make sure the front of the car is raised, top up with your mixture of coolent and demineralised water, the system takes 10liters to fill from empty and a bit more. you want to fill it till the radiator is full, then start the car with the rad cap off and the little bleed screw undone on the left of the rad (if you still have a OEM rad), put the air con on at full temp and full blow, and top up as necessary.

 

If you have a OEM temp gauge id suggest getting a aftermarket one installed. any air in the system will cause spikes in the temperature, small air leaks into the system from incorrectly done up pipes can also cause air to leak into the system and cause over heating. the idea is to get all air as much as possible out of the coolant system. also do not fill up via the over flow bottle, although it will be a good idea to fill the overflow bottle up to the HI mark so the coolant system and work effectively.

 

also make sure you put your fan shroud back on correctly as this aids the viscous fan pull air through the radiator when the car is stood still in traffic.

Edited November 25, 201114 yr by vodkashots

Here's a pic of when I changed my pump and belt, just to give you an idea of what it looks like :)

 

Thanks thats a great help and gives me more confidence in doing the work myself.

 

I have checked the history that I have with the car and the GReddy timing belt was changed approx 11000miles ago. I have heard that these can go for longer than the normal belts so I think that its ok to leave it.

 

Thanks again