hey guys,took my new z to get mot'd today, omg. i dunno bout you guys but wen i sell a car im as honest as i possibly can be, the guy i swapped my bmw for sed it shouldnt need much.

 

im learning my lesson for bein to trusting and nieve.

 

i had to abandon the mot, it failed before he had even lifted it up, which i didnt mind, i expected it to fail, i just wanted to know where to start.

but so far this is what im aware of, it needs 2x 255/35 19'' tyres due to sidewall damage, new bulbs in the headlights, although i checked them and there not blown but like a chrome colour bulb? ill just get new white ones and check the wires. the side repeaters are non standard and green. gotta get new side repeaters. no reflectors at rear. thyve been sprayed over. most likly need new brakes as ive noticed they are not wearing properly on the disc, only about 10mm contact area at the rear. then... get this... i got it bak on my mates drive. had a look at the seats which the garage said wer shocking. theyve come from a s14 apparently, but the subframes dont fit, so instead of drilling new holes and bolting them in. a selftapping screw was holdin the fron of the drivers side down. one bolt in the correct hole. at the back, one nut in the rite place and the other side has had a grinded off part of a different subframe welded on, with a wheel bolt welded to it to stop it wobbling ! pretty much the same the other side but had a socket jammed under to stop the wobble.

Also, the rear seat back, the bit that folds down. its not wide enough to clip into the clips that hold it upright, the actual seat is not the right size? i wonder where its come from? also the bottem seat does not secure either. this is all before any of the bushes have been checked, the only saving grace ive got is it runs sweet as a nut.

 

so basicly ive figured i need:

 

either new front seats,or fashion a suitable subframe.

new rear seat both top and bottem.

new bulbs

2 tyres

assortment of screws to put the interior in properly as few screws are in place.

a new black box controller thingy for the drivers side window mech as this one has been cracked open and a wire solderd to cure a burnt circuit, prob why my window dont work

new standard side repeaters

reflectors

brake pads.

 

thats all i know for sure ish. could do with getting under it and having a good poke around, cant afford to be paying for mots left rite n centre.

which brings me to a sore disposition

should i sell up? i mean its just disheartened me. i wanna be on the road with you guys agen, and i regretted sellin my last one, this is a nice car its just some plonkas rush jobd it. i want to put it right,startnew job monday fingers crossed so i should have a income next month .sick of the dole, soul destroyin :(

 

Rant over.... what do you guys think though?

bit of a blow mate, sounds like its been proper bodged by some chav :(

TBH mate that does not look liek too much work, its when a car fails on rust it becomes a bummer! There are enough breakers about that you can gets bits easily and it will be a case of bolting and un bolting. Did teh tester end the mot or you? Personally i woulf of wanted to see it thru as you do not know what else is wrong!

Your best bet is to take it somewhere that work on zeds have used parts to fit, and do MOT`s, one stop fix.

 

Jeff TT

i ended it as im bit tite on cash so it didnt seem logical at the time, but i do agree with you, im gona jack it up high as i can get some opinions and a crowbar under ther lol, yea its abit chaved up, but it looks mean and goes well, just glad to have a z agen i ges. ive pulled all the interior out now, so maybe its not a big deal, mite need help with the wiring tho.no good with wires unles its a ps3 or xbox lol. im gona take the cream suede off and swap it for red vinyl, black +red, my fav lol, thers NO good breakers round my area :( gona have to be ebay.

 

£££££ :( bugger

hi mate,

 

if it helps ive got spare front and rear seats. the bolster is a bit tatty on the drivers seat but generally good, taking up room. they are cream leather btw

 

yours for a nominal few beer tokens. im only just down the road

 

might have a few other bits to help out too

Edited November 12, 201114 yr by dougal200

jeff, that would be ideal but i only know of one place. you lol. id love to but i cant drive it legally at the moment

really? thats very nice of you. name your brew lol

more than welcome to pop down any evening or even tomorrow mate,

 

ill earn some brownie points for clearing out some room

If Dougal has'nt got all the bits you need, I've got quite a few to help you out, I'm only at Nescliffe, in the week.

Nothing really major there to do, just lots of bitty jobs.

 

Now get your chin up and get them done, just keep ticking them off, you even said yourself it runs sweet so that must hearten you :clap:

hey guys,took my new z to get mot'd today, omg. i dunno bout you guys but wen i sell a car im as honest as i possibly can be, the guy i swapped my bmw for sed it shouldnt need much.

 

im learning my lesson for bein to trusting and nieve.

 

i had to abandon the mot, it failed before he had even lifted it up, which i didnt mind, i expected it to fail, i just wanted to know where to start.

but so far this is what im aware of, it needs 2x 255/35 19'' tyres due to sidewall damage, new bulbs in the headlights, although i checked them and there not blown but like a chrome colour bulb? ill just get new white ones and check the wires. the side repeaters are non standard and green. gotta get new side repeaters. no reflectors at rear. thyve been sprayed over. most likly need new brakes as ive noticed they are not wearing properly on the disc, only about 10mm contact area at the rear. then... get this... i got it bak on my mates drive. had a look at the seats which the garage said wer shocking. theyve come from a s14 apparently, but the subframes dont fit, so instead of drilling new holes and bolting them in. a selftapping screw was holdin the fron of the drivers side down. one bolt in the correct hole. at the back, one nut in the rite place and the other side has had a grinded off part of a different subframe welded on, with a wheel bolt welded to it to stop it wobbling ! pretty much the same the other side but had a socket jammed under to stop the wobble.

Also, the rear seat back, the bit that folds down. its not wide enough to clip into the clips that hold it upright, the actual seat is not the right size? i wonder where its come from? also the bottem seat does not secure either. this is all before any of the bushes have been checked, the only saving grace ive got is it runs sweet as a nut.

 

so basicly ive figured i need:

 

either new front seats,or fashion a suitable subframe.

new rear seat both top and bottem.

new bulbs

2 tyres

assortment of screws to put the interior in properly as few screws are in place.

a new black box controller thingy for the drivers side window mech as this one has been cracked open and a wire solderd to cure a burnt circuit, prob why my window dont work

new standard side repeaters

reflectors

brake pads.

 

thats all i know for sure ish. could do with getting under it and having a good poke around, cant afford to be paying for mots left rite n centre.

which brings me to a sore disposition

should i sell up? i mean its just disheartened me. i wanna be on the road with you guys agen, and i regretted sellin my last one, this is a nice car its just some plonkas rush jobd it. i want to put it right,startnew job monday fingers crossed so i should have a income next month .sick of the dole, soul destroyin :(

 

Rant over.... what do you guys think though?

 

When you have time pop round.i have some seats in tweed you can have also ill take a look over it for you.Lee:ninja:

You should have asked him if you could pay to do a pre-mot, or even a normal mot at your expense before you bought it. Luckily I worked in an MOT station and got mine looked over for nothing, and it just needed a little bit of welding to pass with no advisories :) I got the car for a bargain although I knew the turbo was on it's way out though.

Brake callipers could 'possibly' have a seized piston or 2, seal kits are pretty cheap tho, easy to do. Just a thought mate...

life is good when you have Z friends, i dont have any spare parts to help people, but i have time, and some profesional painting skills ;), im gona subscribe tomoro nite so ill be able to pm people, thanks again guys

HEY KJZ32, you dont live in the house in nescliffe opposite enigma do you? the one with every jap import ever made in the drive and garden ?

no problems mate,

 

let me know if you want the seats,

ive got a set of std rear lights too

im just tryin to get hold of my bro hes got a van lol

sometimes the discs wear like that when the car has sat about for a bit in which case take all apart, (front and rear) and make sure all the pistons move and copper seal all the parts up make sure its all smooth moving... I did this on mine put new pads on the front and simply took the pads out of the back and roughed them up a bit with a bench grinder... All seated nicely and discs returning to a nice shine...

good idea, ill do that while i got the wheels off to have the tyres changed got set of 4 3+mm of tread £20. ebay :) still had to boro it of my dad tho lol

HEY KJZ32, you dont live in the house in nescliffe opposite enigma do you? the one with every jap import ever made in the drive and garden ?

 

No, I dont lol, they are all GTO's, he collects them, I keep trying to count them when I pass, got to 12 so far.

I live nr Corwen, just that I am filling in at my brothers coach company for a bit and pass Oswestry twice a day.

that dude has got rx7's in there aswel. some people have got too much money lol, i live right in the centre of oswestry. well have to meet up sumtime

bloody hell, the seats were not like that when it went from me, it still had the OEM tweed ones in it, the drivers seat had a plate missing from under it as i caught a speed hump and put a 2 inch gash in the underside that mid wales new about.

 

The engine does run sweet as a nut though, I've got some TT rear brake calipers at mine if yours are seized now.

 

You should of let them MOT it fully and get a full run down of the issues just in case there are more.

 

If you need any help bud, you got my number.

 

Whats the issue with the head lights, as i had one as well, were there was no power feed to the passenger side of the car, so had to sort that out. just have a check of my past posts (very early ones from when i first joined) might give you incite to what to expect.

 

As far as im aware, when i had her back in early 2010, the suspension parts were fine. but from what you said earlier someones raised her back up from her lowering springs, im sure i put a post up at some point detailing all the issues. ill have to see if i can find it.

Found it, it was in the journal section that you cant access, ill just repost it here, some of the images have been deleted but ill just copy and past it into here so you can have a good read up.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

POSTED 17th of october 2009

 

Hi all, welcome to my restoration project for my 300zx fairlady Z

 

Its a 1991 Japanese import 2+2 N/A, it come to the country in 2005, and has had 5 owners previously to me, at one point it was owned by someone who was a member on this very site, though im still unable to track down who that was.

 

I purchased it on the 17th of September, and went to collect it from benbecula on the isle of uist in the outer hebrides, unfortunately this was a bit detriment to its health, and does have some minor rust issues, I bought it knowing about an engine tapping, and after hearing it and gauging opinion on the forum and reading around, i believed it to be tappets: however on the drive to its MOT, it developed a hammering sound, then when slowing down to stop to find out what it was, it suffered con rod failure that penetrated the oil sump and locked the engine.

 

I have managed to procure a new engine and this will be collected on Wednesday the 21st of October 2009.

 

List of jobs on the car.

(photos below)

- Drivers side headlight repair due to not functioning correctly

- Engine swap (DONE)

- Full body Respray

- Replace front bumper due to damage

- Replace or recondition rear spoiler

- Derust and treat undercarriage

- Replace plastic cowling under front screen wipers as this is cracked

- Spacers on front wheels

- Retrim interior

- Polish plenum

- Clean and paint cam belt covers

- Sort out a non working horn (DONE)

- Repair non working rear screen demister (DONE)

- Replace steering wheel (DONE)

- Replace hand brake leaver or repair hand break button as its sticking (DONE)

- Replace alloys

- New brake disks and pads (DONE)

- Change calipers for TT versions

- New cam belt (DONE)

- New timing belt and aux belts (DONE)

- Replace manifold with stainless steel one

- Replace normal dash dials with indiglo

- LED pod light replacement

- Replace dash board (upper)

- Replace armrest

- Repair A/C due to not blowing hot air (DONE)

- Replace drivers side window motor

- Replace / repair passenger side folding mirror due to it not working correctly

- Replace Retracting boot cover

- Clean up and respray wiper arms; Front and back (DONE)

 

As you can see there is a lot that needs doing, the old girl wasn't really looked after very much, but all that is about to change.

 

First of all meet the lady

 

 

Now meet her in her current state :(

 

 

 

 

 

Front headlight problems

 

 

 

Repair work finished on the windscreen wiper arms

 

 

More to follow

Edited December 20, 201113 yr by vodkashots

POSTED 18th of October 2009

 

Had the chance to get out to the car today and start the removal procedure. took the hood off and managed to drain and remove the radiator, although some coolant leaked out onto the garage floor when i was removing it.

 

I've unclasped the throttle cable and also the cruise control cable as well, removed the 300zx cowling under the wiper blades, also something else i need to replace now due to the passenger side cracking because of old age. Still unsure how to go about depressurising the fuel line at the moment as the only documented way of doing it, involved the engine running.

 

Another thing i noticed today, it would be a good time to get some new pipe work as the ones taken off the car, although in good condition are a little tatty.

 

Cleaned the interior as well today, it now doesn't smell of mold due to being sat so long, and took the boot carpet out and gave that a good clean, im well pleased with the results, Also been looking at getting my own leatherette and doing the re-trim by hand with hand stitching, i think this will give it a more personal touch £18 for a roll of 25meters should just about do both front seats and the rear panels if i don't make any mistakes, i will more than likely have plenty left over for the side panels down near the middle center console and also the arm rest lid.

 

Anyway here's some more pics to ponder over

 

Rad removed.

 

Dirty rad, this is getting a good clean, surprising how much crap can get in there.

 

Piper work removal, bonnet removed, drainage tract from under wiper arms removed.

 

this has definitely seen better days

 

hmm wonder if i can get a perspex bonnet lol

Posted 24 december 2009

 

Right, i think its been long enough for a update lol

 

Jamie came and visited me from Zed world and bashed my old spigot bearing out, and kindly fitted my new one before darting off to work, so a big thank you to him for that.

 

Fabricated a clutch alignment tool from a caliper piston rewinder, got the clutch aligned and fitted the gear box, filled her up and connected all wires, then on went all the bolts. and finally the prop shaft.

 

Refitted the exhaust and did her up, and then got to work on the engine bay area.

 

Had a bit of trouble figuring out where the small vacuum pipes went, but other than that, everything plugged in with out a hitch.

 

was a bit nervous the first time i started her, but she fired strait away and sat there grumbling nicely.

 

Then it was fault finding time with the little things, rear screen demister was first on the agenda, and a quick look inside the fuse box in the foot well, reveled that a 20A fuse was located in the slot next to where it was supposed to be, i moved the fuse over one (as according to my fuse box diagram there wasn't supposed to be a fuse in that location anyway) and on popped my rear screen demister.

 

Next up was the horn that had been bugging me, so first port of call was the horn fuse in the engine bay, but that was fine, so onto the relay also in the engine bay, went to pull it out and the plastic top gave way, exposing the relay innards, on closer examination someone had put a small bit of paper between the contact points, removing this gave me my horn back.

 

After the engine swap, i had a lumpy idle, nellys300 came over and spotted something id missed. there was a bit of pipe still attached to one of the vacuum pipes that runs to the carbon canister. looking at it, it looked like it was attached to something, but on closer inspection, revealed that it was short by about 5inches from reaching where it was supposed to be, a replacement pipe sorted out my lumpy and erratic idle.

 

Next was the handbrake, as it was that high when engaged that if a woman was into that sort of thing, she would of had hours of fun. raised the rear of the car, loosened the 13mm nut on the hand brake inside the car. and left it in the off position. Then removed the wheels and putting the little rubber grommet on the brake disk at the 6 o'clock position, took the rubber out the way, and using a long flat head screw driver rotate the little cog inside, up until you encounter resistance. then move the cog 2 turns back to slacken it off slightly, and repeat on the other side exactly the same, turning the cog up to tighten. and 2 turns back to slacken it off slightly. this improved the hand brake dramatically and its now fully engaged with in 6 clicks.

 

Next up was the head light problem i had. having read and posted on the forum, everyone was pointing to a bad earth, so i ran some tests. first i took the power from the good headlight on the passenger side, and fed that into the bad head light. then took the earth from the bad side and ran that to the open pin on the bad headlight, this would give me a true account as to whether it would be the earth or not. this seemed to cure my problem, and eliminated the bad earth possibility. that left just one thing, a bad live, so for now i have rigged it so I'm drawing power from the good headlight and feeding it into the bad headlight and using the normal earth. This gives me working headlights.

 

I then replaced the front brake pads that were almost none existent.

 

Then it was a few more jobs ready for the MOT left, mainly steering rack gaiter, missing wheel stud, new rear tires or so i thought, took the car down to my local garage to get some new tires on the rears. and caught a speed hump wrong coming back, and managed to put a 2inch gash in the underside of the car :( so thought id better check the rest of the car for bad rust, i new the car had surface rust underneath, but wasn't sure about how bad it was, so i went over the whole car and put my finger through one place lol, so now i have 2 spots of welding that are in need of doing.

 

Wheel stud was also fun, removed the front wheels as needed to fit new brake pads anyway, undid the caliper and moved it out of the way, took the brake pads out and replaced with new, and took the disk off, hammered the old stud out and replaced with the new one, put the disk back on and making sure the caliper was out the way, tightened the new stud by putting the wheel back on and tightening it up with the bolt.

 

Once done i removed the wheel again and went to put the caliper back on, as i did so the pipe crimped close to the nipple and then started leaking, so it was a trip back down to the local garage to get a new brake pipe. having replaced the brake pipe with a new bit, i then needed to bleed the brakes, the ABS is located in the boot behind a plastic bit of interior panel on the drivers side of the car. with two bleed nipples located on the top. one is for the front the other for the rear. having bleed both, i then proceeded to bleed the fronts first then the rear wheels. having done this i then bleed the ABS again just to make sure, using 1.5lts of brake fluid in the process (4dot).

 

Next came the steering rack gaiter renewal, and i have to say i found this the easiest job to do. tools required are a 13mm spanner (not ring spanner) and a 22mm spanner.first undo the big nut (22) that tightens the tie rod to the front tie rod arm, if its well rusty you shouldn't have any problems with this part. and unscrew it till the upper tie rod arm comes away from the lower tie rod arm, now undo the bolt as the lower tie rod arm is no longer stopping it and it should be rust free allowing easy removal (stop the upper tie rod arm from spinning using the 13mm spanner on the hexagonal part of the arm). next slide the old gaiter off, and the new gaiter on, making sure to secure it with the metal tie supplied with it from main dealer.

 

Once in place, put the 22mm bolt back on and do up till you get to the rust as this is your marker to keep it in alignment. next reconnect the two halves of the tie rod and do up again, but this time use the 13mm spanner until the bolt is back resting against the lower tie rod arm. tighten the bolt to secure both. job done

 

When i was doing the tie rod gaiter. i found i had a leak coming from what is basically a metal collar on the high pressure pipe from the power steering, this and the welding are the only 2 jobs i know of that i need to do for the MOT.

 

More to follow, along with a MOT pass or fail...