Well, bank 2 turbo decided to eat some oil, and I'm in the hunt for a replacement or recondition. I'm wondering that if I were to get some T25's or T28's would they fit directly, or is there some modification needed? If it's an oil line or something similar, it's not too much of a problem, but if a new section of exhaust is required, I can't really do that right now :(

 

If anyone can get back to me, it would be appreciated, thanks!

Opps, just double checked, and it's bank 1. Regardless I'd just get them reconditioned anyway. I was trying to find some uprated turbo's do sort out in the new year, but it's went a little earlier than anticipated :(

Anyone able to help me with this? If a larger turbo is a direct fitment or needs some modification at all?

 

Thanks

carm down .. its been less than 10hrs since your last post .. and it was at night

 

i think the Garret GT28rs is the only one thats a Direct fit

 

but i'm sure some one will come along when there online .. and correct me if im wrong :)

I'm sorry but 10 hours?

 

Post #3 = 11th November 2011, 20:14

Post #4 = 14th November 2011, 08:42

 

It's 2 and a half days ;) I need to get it sorted asap as the car is at my works garage, and the longer it's kept here, the more they moan :(

Get your stock tubs refurbed or hybridised, simples

Depends on the turbo you intend to use, some will require a different stud pattern on the downpipes. Also, if you radically increase the size of the turbo you need to have the ECU re-mapped. If you need to give more fuel to stop it running lean, then you will need to uprate the injectors. If you're going to run more fuel and higher boost, you're going to need forged pistons. To get the most out of it you're going to need a bigger set of intercoolers too. I hope you can see where this is going..

 

If you want a quick, cheapish fix - stick with a stock setup until you have enough money to do the job proper.

 

HTH

I'm sorry but 10 hours?

 

Post #3 = 11th November 2011, 20:14

Post #4 = 14th November 2011, 08:42

 

It's 2 and a half days ;) I need to get it sorted asap as the car is at my works garage, and the longer it's kept here, the more they moan :(

 

sorry my mistake i just looked at the times :)

Depends on the turbo you intend to use, some will require a different stud pattern on the downpipes. Also, if you radically increase the size of the turbo you need to have the ECU re-mapped. If you need to give more fuel to stop it running lean, then you will need to uprate the injectors. If you're going to run more fuel and higher boost, you're going to need forged pistons. To get the most out of it you're going to need a bigger set of intercoolers too. I hope you can see where this is going..

 

If you want a quick, cheapish fix - stick with a stock setup until you have enough money to do the job proper.

 

HTH

 

Thanks for that. I was already aware of what is needed in a job like this, but the turbo went earlier than expected, so left me in a position where I have no parts available at this moment. So the plan was now to get new upgraded turbo's fitted and turn down the boost while I get the FMIC and remap, and drive like an angel lol. I've never done any major mechanical work like that, and I will probably leave it for the lads in the garage to do, but they don't want to drop the steering rack and suspension and tie a ramp up.

Thanks for that. I was already aware of what is needed in a job like this, but the turbo went earlier than expected, so left me in a position where I have no parts available at this moment. So the plan was now to get new upgraded turbo's fitted and turn down the boost while I get the FMIC and remap, and drive like an angel lol. I've never done any major mechanical work like that, and I will probably leave it for the lads in the garage to do, but they don't want to drop the steering rack and suspension and tie a ramp up.

 

That must mean its the driver's side turbo that's failed then? Sorry - can't remember which bank is which :blushing:

 

I know Jeff managed to change a passenger side manifold gasket (and therefore also remove the turbo) but I didn't realise it was possible to change the drivers side with the engine in situ? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought it was impossible?

 

Anyway, I'm not overly convinced by the strategy you're employing, but I understand completely that you don't want to change turbos twice - once is bad enough. Thing is, if the lads at the workshop pull the engine instead, then it doesn't need to tie a ramp up (heavens forbid!) and you can get some turbos bolted on before the lump gets dropped back in. Maybe jeff or Jimmer will tell you, but it might actually be easier, if not the only way you can do it??

 

Personally, I would go for the safe route and stick with stock - you can still wind the boost up a bit and enjoy a healthy 350bhp with stock parts. And for someone who's used to driving a 106 (was it?), that should be plenty for a few months at least! Driving round with an engine thats pegged back sounds like misery to me.

When I saw the blue smoke, I immediatly pulled it onto the MOT ramp and noticed a leak on the o/s underneath the turbo, n/s was dry and the smoke was coming out of the o/s exhaust only. He had a look around, and said that he could get to it, bearing in mind he has about 35-40 years experience, and does a lot of awkward jobs where he can't see anything lol. I did ask him wouldn't it be easier to drop the engine out, and he was sure he can get it with the rack and suspension out of the way :S

 

And yeah, previous car was a 106, but first car was an Almera GTi, and have been around performance cars a lot. I'm not a fan of playing with the boost too much either, especially with manual controllers. My ex done that with his old Skyline GTS-T and blown the turbo after running just under 1 bar. He then bought a GT-R, and guess what, that blown too lol. He also blown the intercooler on his Z32 "Veilside demo which isn't really the demo just a copy" and his other Z32 survived somehow :D

Well I'm no expert on these things - I just regurgitate information as if it were gospel, like many keyboard warriors. But, some people's knowledge on here is quite extroadinary, you should make use of their wealth of knowledge.

 

The thing is, too many people get disheartened when things go belly-up and another Zed gets broken for spares. I just think you should just get it fixed as cheap and quick as possible and enjoy it for what it is for a while. When my piston rings went, the car was off the road for four months and that was with the assistance from the Zed elite. Which is completely impractical if the Zed is your only mode of transport.

 

Anyway, decide what's best for you and get it back on the road so you can enjoy it - just don't bite off more than you can chew, so to speak (and that has nothing to do with you being a laaady!!).

T25's straight on and are only a stage 1 upgrade from stock, so no faffing around with ECU or owt else mate.

Smithy

T25's straight on and are only a stage 1 upgrade from stock, so no faffing around with ECU or owt else mate.

Smithy

 

Oh I love you :wub: Thanks a lot!