right i fitted hids on wednesday and got to try them out last night, on a 15 mile drive really impressed loads different. however on the way back this morning, i turned the car on and the usual lights illuminated on the dash except they didnt go out.

the battery light the hicas the antilock and the lights.

within a few minutes all but the battery light had disapperaed and the battery light had dimmed right down. then as soon as i dropped below 2500 rpm they would all reappear accompanied by the sound of what can only be described as a bee. foot down back off. :s

 

so i tested the battery, 12.1v across the terminals, engine on 11.8vs.

so i would assume the alternator isnt charging? and therefore at fault. now is there anything else i can do to be sure on this subject as obviously replacing the alterantor is quite time consuming.

 

the lights and everything still work, but the dash is dim. i have had the top of teh dash cluster off to change the lightbulbs behind there, this week and tahst where the buzzing seemed to come from. although obviously it could have been the alternator as its down that side. i think it was raining last night.....anyways any further ideas greatly recived.

:confused1:

In daylight, Disconnect the power supply to the HIDS and see if that makes a difference, just in case there is either something wrong with ballasts, or the wiring or something has been disturbed in fitting them.

 

That way you know whether it's the alternator or something else

 

Good luck in finding it !

Were these the Voltage readings when you had the lights on? Was the battery under load?

Nope everything was off to my knowledge

May have an alternator if yours is fubar

Check using the body as an earth as well as across the battery in case its an earthing fault, electrical issues can sometimes be abnormal lol

With your car reving around 2000-2500rmp the alternator should output at around 13.5 to 14.5V. If it is less than this you may have a diode breaking down in the alternator. Still strange that it has only happened post having fitted your Hids.

If you need one and wanna cover postage I have one you can have fella

cheers guys, gaz il be in touch. and cheers craig if gaz doesnt have one il let you know. anyways il go test the battery later on today with the hids disconnected and check ive not disturbed anything on the ash cluster, when i was fiddling. i wouldnt be surprised if it was the alternator, i had a powersteering leak issue that got all over it, but that stopped a while back, i do think there is a slight oil leak from the coupler on the oil cooler which is directly in line, also ive just done my radiator etc and its likly coolant got down there but again taht was weeks ago. anyways i suppose its possible its just all accumilated and now its finally given up the ghost. theres no in line fuses that will prevent the alternator charging the battery is there? it was obviously starting to charge a little bit over the 2500 rpm. hence the lights going out which does all futher the mystery, however i revved the engine yesterday and the voltage didnt increase...hrm.

right i just did the following tests,

engine off 12.1v

engine running nothing else on known 11.61v

hids disconnected no change

engine running negative taken from body not the neg terminal. 11.59v

is there a way to test the actually power held by the battery ie its charge? would that be in amps? that way i can test to see if something is draining the battery when the ignition is off. im pretty sure its the alternator sadly. is there a wy to test the alternators functionality off the car?? I HATE ELECTRICS!

ive also had a quick look at the dash where i was fiddling nothings been disconnected. and ive also had a peek at the drivers footwell fuse box and the drivers side fuse box by the servo. nothing seems wrong there. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

If nothings changed in the tests then it's probably the alternator fried like you said !

 

Make sure all the leaks have gone before you fit the new one !

just been chattig to my neighbour a apprentice co-ordinator for mechanics looks after the bmw appretices etc. anyways he said it does sound like im correct and the reason it would have dimmed the battery light etc while over a certain speed is that its most likly the brushes have failed, at higher speeds teh vibrtaions etc allow it to arch out and connect the circuit allowing a small power transferance. anyways, il be getting the car up in the air this week, and connecting the new alt, apprantly there should be two connections there a thick one which is a feed to the battery, and a connector block. the alt can be checked from the thick one and the chasis and should read 12v then obviously once the egine is running i can re run the checks and get a more positive outcome. bloody cars!

To test the battery there are all kinds of electronic testers available but I prefer to use the old fashioned discharge tester.

 

More than likely the alt is fooked but as you say up in the air test the voltage at the back of it. They are not that difficult to change just a lack of access but thats cars for you.

 

All the best

right after about half hours work the alternator is loosened the belt disconnected, only thing is the main bolt doesnt seem to want to undo. it turns it just doesnt seem to be undoing.....:s its not loose but its not supertight... and how do i get to the connections at the rear to remove it? the subframe is in the way?

right as i understand it theres a square nut on the back so il have to pull it forward then wind till it falls off...the guides ive read say to drop the anti roll bar, i cant see taht being necessary atm... il probally be proved wrong hahaha

If you have the car up in the air, you can get your hand on that bolt from underneath. With any luck you should be able to undo it while just holding on to the back of the nut.

 

Don't know why Nissan didn't make a captive one?

just have to wait till its light out have a good look :)

iirc I got my hand in between the arb and the steering rack brace.

right the ******* is out, i had to unbolt the anti rollbar of corse... wish id done it before i unbolted the alt.. :/ anyways i found a disconnected cable on the back. which might be the cause, im hoping to get it tested tomorrow by a mate of mine. do anyone have any idea what the three cables are supposed to be connected too? one is bolted up to a stud and the loose one i assume bolts up to on eof the threaded holes.. but which one? theres two

right the ******* is out, i had to unbolt the anti rollbar of corse... wish id done it before i unbolted the alt.. :/ anyways i found a disconnected cable on the back. which might be the cause, im hoping to get it tested tomorrow by a mate of mine. do anyone have any idea what the three cables are supposed to be connected too? one is bolted up to a stud and the loose one i assume bolts up to on eof the threaded holes.. but which one? theres two

 

Don't think it matters which one you use.

Have you checked the "engine cont" fuse,all kinds of bizarre charging and warning light faults occur when it blows.its in the engine bay under the black plastic cover.

is that the one that looks like its had a piece of blue wire jammed in it? all the green ones where in tact.

Its under the main engine fuses on the passenger side inner wing.

Right thanks chaps... All sorted poped in the alternator from gaz(hellraiser)and fired up... 14.1v now :) I went through a few connections aswel. Pulled the old one apart seems the two sprung blocks at the back where worn and no longer touching the shaft.

yep, thems your brushes...

Glad to hear it's working ok :-)