can someone clarify this for me have read so many threads im now just confused...

 

if i wanted wheels for a wide arch kit, for example 20mm wide arches, would i get ~ .8 inches wider alloys or increase my offset by 20mm? or both, my heads hurting now please help...

no one?

 

i'll be going 3 inches per side so any suggestions on width / offset ? don't want spacers really.

I dont have a clue but because i had just bought new wheels i was going to get spacers lol!!

 

I think to get a wheel with the correct off set will be expensive as some will have to be custom made etc, Best bet would be to get some nice wheels as close as you can then space them out??

yeah you probably right, just i drive past a lambo diablo everyday on the way to work and just love how wide the rear wheels are... :thumbup1:

I dont have a clue but because i had just bought new wheels i was going to get spacers lol!!

 

I think to get a wheel with the correct off set will be expensive as some will have to be custom made etc, Best bet would be to get some nice wheels as close as you can then space them out??

 

Alot of wheels in stock Z offset wont fit unless the spokes curve outwards. also z's have quite a large centre bore hole so it can be tricky finding wheels to accomodate that also.

 

Can't answer your offset question sorry, i just went with what wheels i liked in the offset i could get them, and nothing wrong with bolt on spacers. i'm getting some once all my suspension arms arrive in november and get all the camber rights etc then i can decide on spacer thickness.

Getting the wheels to fit correctly will depend on ride height, camber, wheel offset, rim width and tyre sizes. If you are happy with your cars stance and you are only changing the cars width (not ride height, camber etc) then either wheels with a -20mm offset to the offset you already have or 20mm bolt on spacers should work (if you choose 20mm spacers then check you wheels have small recess to allow for part of the stud to poke through the spacer, stock 300zx wheel studs are approx 25mm-ish so 25mm spacers are fine).

 

If you are lowering your car, changing the width etc, then imo it would be best to sort the wide arch and lowering first to get an idea on how the wheels you already have sit on the car, that way you will be able to judge how far the wheels need to come out. A negative offset will bring the wheels outwards and is measured in mm, the wheel width is measured in "j" which means inches eg 8j wheels are 8inches wide etc, hope this helps when looking for wheels. Tyre sizes and camber setting can affect fitment of the wheel in the arch too, so worth bearing that in mind also.

 

Leigh

What boffin decided the +offset will be to the inside of the flange and not to the normal brain pattern logic of working from the flange and adding a spacer would make it the wheel centre line +the offset being +to the outside, plus spacer width making it all measured from the flange to the wing making it simpler to measure the widths required so the tyres are inside the wing,would this not be more logical??? although I am only simple!!!!

It makes sense when you think of it. The offset of 0 means dead centre mounting face, so if you pull that back back in toeards the car causing negartive offset. Opposite flr positive.

But if it's et+ doesn't that move the wheel centre towards the inside??

But if it's et+ doesn't that move the wheel centre towards the inside??

 

the lower the number the further your wheel sticks out ... ie a +35 will stick out 10mm more than a +45 in the same width.

 

Wheel offset is measured by measureing the total width of the wheel in mm... the finding the middle point then mesauring towards the outer part of the wheel (the part you see) until you get to where the wheel makes contact with the brake disc....

 

ie... if your total rim width was 300mm.... divide that in half you get 150mm.... measure 150mm then from there find how far to where the wheel joins your hub. ... so say base on this you find the part that joins the hub is 35mm towards the outside edge of the wheel... that is a +35 offset.

 

A wheel with 0 offset for example would be exactly in the centre of the wheel. ... a -20 is 20mm off centre towards the inside edge of the wheel thus pushing the wheel out further.

 

All of these figured you base on the same width rim, if you where to look at wider rims then you can put that into the offset calculator i linked in an earlier post and find what offset will be suitable...

 

With z's the shape of your spokes have to be chosen carefully due to the large size of the 4 pot calipers.

That is what I said!

I think.

plus is moving the outer rim to the inside and minus is moving the outer rim to the outside,:cool:

Be mindful of the fact that massively wide, heavy rims with negative offset will put additional strain on the hubs, it's not catastrophic but it 'may' cause wear at a quicker rate (especially if your zed's hubs have 80,000+ miles on them already). It's no different to running 50mm spacers with slightly narrower rims, though wider rims are generally heavier and will cause wear quicker.

 

I stand to be corrected, should there be somebody who has been running 14"JJ x 18"JJ rims for the last 50,000 miles with no adverse effects on their hubs

 

Wide rear isn't too bad but for God's sake don't go rediculously wide on the front or it'll drive like a pile of turd