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As above.

 

The clutch is on it's way out, but apart from a bit of slipping now and again, gear change is fine, so doesn't really need to be replaced immediately

 

however I've noticed recently that there's an annoying metalic grinding noise, especially when in nuetral at slow speeds (ie. when slowing down at traffic lights)

 

Initially I thought that it might be that the brake pads had worn down and would need replacing (that's what the grinding noise reminds me of) but they are all fine, with plenty of pad left on them.

 

I had a look underneath this evening and didn't find anything unusual. The exhaust system looks pretty much new from front to rear though haven't checked the manifold as yet.

 

I'm a bit stumped to be honest?

 

Could the fact that the clutch is on its way cause a noise like that? :blink:

Featured Replies

  • Author
possibly the thrust bearing on the clutch gone too.

 

 

Cheers mate

 

Would that be expensive to replace?

 

I've got a spare Centreforce clutch that could go on in the meantime so no cost there but is the thrust bearing a seperate part?

  • Author
yes mate seperate part. but once box is off to do the clutch anyway it takes all of 30 secs to change. lol. really easy:). its the part that pushes the clutch out. it is basically a bearing. you should normally change these with a clutch change anyway:)

 

Makes sense to me mate, thanks bud

  • Author

Ok, well a quick update on this

 

the sound that I thought originated from the clutch area appears to actually originate from the hubs?

 

I had the windows down this evening on the way home and made a point of driving really slowly so that I could determine the source of the grinding, as it turns out it sounds like the wheel bearings or something similar maybe the problem. The sound speeds up and slows down on acceleration and deceleration.

 

Would wheel bearings make a noise similar to the metalic grinding described earlier? It's very similar to the sound that you hear when your brake pads have worn when (ie. metal on metal)

 

Any suggestions? costs? etc.

 

thanks

I would recommend lifting each corner off the ground and revolving each wheel by hand, with the sound as you describe it should be easy enough to feel.

A friend of mine had a front wheel bearing seize at speed, not nice. the car was written off but he was lucky enough to not get hurt.

Also, is the hub/wheel getting hot after a run? usually a good sign of friction.

i dont know about wheel bearings specificly but i work with bearings on a day to day and id say they can make all sorts of noises when they start to go id agree with redwine get the car in the air and have a good look at each wheel

  • Author
I would recommend lifting each corner off the ground and revolving each wheel by hand, with the sound as you describe it should be easy enough to feel.

QUOTE]

 

 

I've just had the shortie' jacked up and rotated the front wheels by hand and the sound is pretty clear, but not really a deep grinding or chirping sound as others had described, I'd described it more like a scraping/scratching sound.

The brakes are all as new with no rust etc.

 

Now I'm no mechanic but I think that the front brake pads might be rubbing on the discs, which do appear to be very slightly warped.

There isn't a gouge in the discs as if the pads had worn down and damaged the discs, but there is a slight rise on the surface of the discs that isn't present on my spare sets up in the attic

 

Several months ago there was a slight high pitched squeel at around 30mph but it seemed to fade at higher speeds (or at least the sound of the exhaust drowned it out). However the last few months have involved a hell of a lot of long motorway journey's and B road driving which I think may have taken its toll on the brakes (it destroyed a set of Pirelli's in a matter of weeks!)

 

I reckon that I might have cooked the front brakes a tad

 

 

 

There's plenty of life left in the pads but they do appear to be rubbing on the discs.

 

I've got a few other sets of Ksports lying about (6 & 12 pots) that I could swap for these (the current set are Ksport 8 pots), would it be worth doing this sooner rather than later?

 

The brakes still work fine it's just the noise that's annoying the shite out of me at the moment

I'd take the pads out, clean everything up, rub everything down, make sure you grease up the shims and put it back together?

Second that Hollowpoint,

that will then at least confirm them as the problem or eliminate them.

It might also be worth checking that all the pistons move forward and back freely, it may be that you have one dragging on the disk.

Mind you do not push to far back as you may push your fluid out of the reservoir as the lid will be off.

Its not the rubber that goes around the gear stick is it? might of come loose it makes that type of noise.

If pads are fine 2 options i'd advise...

 

stone caught in a brake pad...

 

metal shield behind brake disc rubbing against disc.

  • Author

Cheers fellas, the noise appears to be front right only so will do as advised and strip it down, clean and re-check.

 

Gear lever etc looks to be fine but will double check if stripping th ebrakes doesn't work.

 

I did think that something might have got caught up between the pad and disc (stone etc) so will check when stripping.

 

I'll let you know how I get on

 

thanks

Cheers fellas, the noise appears to be front right only so will do as advised and strip it down, clean and re-check.

 

Gear lever etc looks to be fine but will double check if stripping th ebrakes doesn't work.

 

I did think that something might have got caught up between the pad and disc (stone etc) so will check when stripping.

 

I'll let you know how I get on

 

thanks

 

Unsure if i was clear enough before...

 

Also check the metal shield behind the rotor as they can start to rub against the inside of the rotor which will give you the same noise.

  • Author

Well there's the problem.....

 

 

IMG-20111103-00441.jpg

 

 

and the gouge on the inside of the disc

 

 

IMG-20111103-00442.jpg

 

 

It looks like the bottom part of the inner brake pad has worn away completely but the top part of the brake pad isn't too bad

 

Is this a piston problem perhaps?

 

 

I'll be swapping the lot over on the weekend I think

yeap you higher piston is a jim jammy by the looks of it, not completely look at the pad wear, take pads out and nip iff the dusts seals clean the pistons up, take the cap off your brake resovoir and slowly push them in all the way with a g clamp, should free them up, and wont require a rebleed. you'll need to get that disc machined and do the other front and new pads at the same time.

  • Author

Cheers bud :thumbup1:

 

but i reckon this is a good excuse to fit the larger brake setup all round

Cheers bud :thumbup1:

 

but i reckon this is a good excuse to fit the larger brake setup all round

 

I mean if you really have to i guess there is no other way :devil2: :whistling:

  • Author

Update:

 

Dropped the shortie' off this morning at a small garage in Oakdale along with a selection of brakes and pads in the boot. The guy phoned this afternoon to inform me that they'd tried fitting all manner of configurations but the long and short of it is that out of all of the setups, bugger all fits with the Enkeis (typicaly the RAYs fit perfectly)

 

The current set on the zed up front are 8 pot Ksports on 330mm discs which fit nicely albeit with a gauge on the drivers side front disc and in need of replacement pads

 

the 12 pot Ksports on 380mm discs fit but the pipe on the caliper is catching on the inner nuts of the split rims so not going to work :no:

 

the 6 pot Ksports are on 356mm discs but are for the rear so won't fit on the front

 

none of the discs are interchangeable :headvswal

 

 

So spoke to Kev at Apex Performance and he's sent a new set of EBC pads for the 8 pots by courier to the garage, just so that the car can be driven

 

he's also sending a brake template to determine whether a new set of 8 pots on larger 356mm discs will clear the inner rim nuts

 

Obviously I can't fit the 356mm dics on the front and keep the 330mm setup on the front

 

Now who said that changing brakes was easy :blink:

  • 4 weeks later...
Update:

 

Dropped the shortie' off this morning at a small garage in Oakdale along with a selection of brakes and pads in the boot. The guy phoned this afternoon to inform me that they'd tried fitting all manner of configurations but the long and short of it is that out of all of the setups, bugger all fits with the Enkeis (typicaly the RAYs fit perfectly)

 

The current set on the zed up front are 8 pot Ksports on 330mm discs which fit nicely albeit with a gauge on the drivers side front disc and in need of replacement pads

 

the 12 pot Ksports on 380mm discs fit but the pipe on the caliper is catching on the inner nuts of the split rims so not going to work :no:

 

the 6 pot Ksports are on 356mm discs but are for the rear so won't fit on the front

 

none of the discs are interchangeable :headvswal

 

 

So spoke to Kev at Apex Performance and he's sent a new set of EBC pads for the 8 pots by courier to the garage, just so that the car can be driven

 

he's also sending a brake template to determine whether a new set of 8 pots on larger 356mm discs will clear the inner rim nuts

 

Obviously I can't fit the 356mm dics on the front and keep the 330mm setup on the front

 

Now who said that changing brakes was easy :blink:

 

12 pots.... :ohmy:

 

so uhhh you wont be needing those then? :wink:

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