Thankfully its sunny, as my drivers window is down and wont go back up :cursing: !!

 

Reading previous posts i understand it's likely to be a little black box in the drivers door. So does anyone have one of these badboys handy for me to snap up?

 

Then to add to the fun and games :crying:- having replaced the passenger door, that window on the passenger door does not work at all. so im guessing it could be a number of things - wires leading to window motor, the motor itself, window switch?

Repair it, it's usually a dry solder joint, 10 mins to fix :-)

Thankfully its sunny, as my drivers window is down and wont go back up :cursing: !!

 

Reading previous posts i understand it's likely to be a little black box in the drivers door. So does anyone have one of these badboys handy for me to snap up?

 

Then to add to the fun and games :crying:- having replaced the passenger door, that window on the passenger door does not work at all. so im guessing it could be a number of things - wires leading to window motor, the motor itself, window switch?

 

 

 

As far as your passenger side window check the cut out switch on the drivers side that isolates it for when you have a child in the passenger seat.

 

The little black box is fixable see tech thread I did some time back

 

 

Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron.

 

The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door.

 

Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece.

 

Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems.

 

Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from.

 

 

 

Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet.

 

 

Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation.

 

 

Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection.

 

 

 

Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door.

 

Happy fixing :D

 

Jeff TT

as jeff just pointed out

i had this problem when i just bought her his tech fixed it straight away

just make sure your solder is clean

now thats what i call a detailed answer- thanks very much Jeff~!

I will give it a blast over the weekend.

Do you have to remove the door card to get to the window power amp, or is it the black box attached to the window switch?

door card off, but that's less than a 5min job

Do you have to remove the door card to get to the window power amp, or is it the black box attached to the window switch?

 

No, access it by slightly lifting the bottom of the card away from the door and it is roughly centre of the door on a clip, pull hard and it will come down and the cable can be easily disconnected.

 

door card off, but that's less than a 5min job

 

How many times I have taken door panels off and then found the above method takes like 10 seconds....ahem

 

Jeff TT

Ok i've had a look at the amp - and as the pictures show, it looks like a previous owner has soldered it before. Correct me if im wrong, but it looks like it's soldered ok, so im unsure what the problem is?

 

 

With regards to the passenger door - does that need a window power amp too? The window still does not work unfortunately, but is it because it is missing something which connects to the blue connector shown in the pictures?

looks too me that one or two of the other joints are suspect,:detective:

they appear to have a circular break around the solder.

particularly the one 3 above.

May be worth just re melting the joint, but be careful not to over heat.

looks too me that one or two of the other joints are suspect,:detective:

they appear to have a circular break around the solder.

particularly the one 3 above.

May be worth just re melting the joint, but be careful not to over heat.

 

Definately.....

Ok will give them both a solder. Does the passenger side need a window power module too??

Here you go, all revealed in close up, get your soldering iron out! and the passenger side window does need the unit in place.

 

Jeff

 

 

Edited October 2, 201114 yr by JeffTT

Ok brilliant, hopefully that does the trick - thank you for the close ups.

 

Do you have any passenger side units available Jeff? Or does anyone else have one??

Ok brilliant, hopefully that does the trick - thank you for the close ups.

 

Do you have any passenger side units available Jeff? Or does anyone else have one??

 

Your welcome, hope it helps you.

 

Passenger side window runs through the module on the drivers side, the passenger side is a switch only so no module for it.

 

Jeff TT

All soldered up and working well! Thanks again for your help.

This club is spot on for help & advice :)