hooked it up earlier, didnt change anything seeing as i didnt really know wot i was doing. over to the experts for an opinion of how it looks

The o2's will only register above 2000rpm, they should pulse up and down.

 

took car for a spin while hooked up to laptop last nite, o2s seem fine, at least they were changing up n down all the time

Won't reach 80? Got a thermostat in there at all?

it did touch 80 but only when i was driving about, but it didnt stay there, dropped back to 75 ish

Remember to lock the timing to 15* BTDC via the active tests menu in NDS otherwise the ECU will be constantly adjusting timing while you're trying to mess with it.

 

With the timing all you are trying to do is ensure the commanded timing matches actual timing. Above when it says 25* BTDC that is just commanded timing, so you need to lock the commanded timing to 15* BTDC and check with a light that the actual timing at the crank is also 15* BTDC.

 

The ECU will constantly adjust timing to maintain a steady idle, more timing = more power and more power = revs rise, so when AC is turned on, etc to keep constant idle it adds timing to provide more power to run the AC without bogging down, when AC is turned off the ECU takes out that extra timing so the revs don't rise and can maintains a stable idle.

 

So the above reading of 25* is meaningless, that is all the ECU has commanded, actual timing could be anything, the only way to check is to lock the timing and check with a light to ensure commanded timing matches actual timing.

Also, 75* or 80* won't matter, ECU's tend to go into closed loop operation (ie relying on the lambda) at around 50*C or so.

 

5*C difference here & there is not going to effect the readings you get, the engine is warmed up and the thermostat is open, the ECU has moved out of the cold start procedures and that's what matters, because that's what you are taking readings from, the ECU.

 

See, if I could edit my posts I wouldn't need to post twice...

See, if I could edit my posts I wouldn't need to post twice...

 

Ah... pay the money for membership and you will be able to...lol.. :)

you need to read what Jeff said!!!!

 

 

Mmmm....:thumbup:

 

without taking a blowtorch to the engine, it aint going to 80, i did that last test after a 20 min run and leaving the engine running for 10 mins

Use a good strong glove and catch and hod the fan blade, temp should come up to around 82c let the blade go and it should stay around 80c.

 

took car for a spin while hooked up to laptop last nite, o2s seem fine, at least they were changing up n down all the time

 

Exactly right, many 02 sensors are mistakenly written off by talking no load readings only.

 

Won't reach 80? Got a thermostat in there at all?

 

 

Without a thermostat the temperature would be more like 60c to 65c

 

Remember to lock the timing to 15* BTDC via the active tests menu in NDS otherwise the ECU will be constantly adjusting timing while you're trying to mess with it.

 

 

 

With the timing all you are trying to do is ensure the commanded timing matches actual timing. Above when it says 25* BTDC that is just commanded timing, so you need to lock the commanded timing to 15* BTDC and check with a light that the actual timing at the crank is also 15* BTDC.

 

 

 

The ECU will constantly adjust timing to maintain a steady idle, more timing = more power and more power = revs rise, so when AC is turned on, etc to keep constant idle it adds timing to provide more power to run the AC without bogging down, when AC is turned off the ECU takes out that extra timing so the revs don't rise and can maintains a stable idle.

 

So the above reading of 25* is meaningless, that is all the ECU has commanded, actual timing could be anything, the only way to check is to lock the timing and check with a light to ensure commanded timing matches actual timing.

 

Never seen the ecu change the reference timing because your adjusting the actual dynamic timing???

 

Lock the command timing ......no facility for that?

 

The 25deg timing has been established is due to the lack of neutral signal so is VERY relevant as when checking with a timing light you need to check it at 25deg.

 

 

Also, 75* or 80* won't matter, ECU's tend to go into closed loop operation (ie relying on the lambda) at around 50*C or so.

 

5*C difference here & there is not going to effect the readings you get, the engine is warmed up and the thermostat is open, the ECU has moved out of the cold start procedures and that's what matters, because that's what you are taking readings from, the ECU.

 

 

See, if I could edit my posts I wouldn't need to post twice...

 

Temp differences of 5c or so degrees may not make any obvious difference now but is evidence of a potential problem or issue on the way, either the thermostat is not modulating ( regulating) the running temp correctlty, the viscous fan is locking too early or the temp reading is actually incorrect due to a sensor issue.

 

 

Ah... pay the money for membership and you will be able to...lol.. :)

 

Mmmm...yep! lol

Edited October 2, 201114 yr by JeffTT