Just started to remove the headbolts 13 of them came out without a problem but 3 of them were torqued down so tight that they've rounded off....not my f**king day!!

 

short of strapping some PE4 and det cord to this piece of shite engine, any ideas how to go about removing them now?

 

thanks in advance

I've gone for a spare 1.5 internal hex wheel nut packed with epoxy resin threaded onto each head bolt approx 3/4 of the way down the head bolt thread (ensuring no overspill).

That'll be solid within the next hour or so, but I'll leave it until the morning and then crank the headbolts off.

 

We'll see tomorrow morning if that's worked :blink:

it may be worth putting a couple of the ones you successfully removed back in close to the ones that are tight.

Tighten them down so as to take some of the load off, but not so tight as that you get them stuck.:sweatdrop:

It is not uncommon for the last ones to be more difficult to remove as all of the tension may have transfered to them once all the others are free,

Look to use the bolts that are in the best condition so as to give you the best chance.

Get the grinder out solves all problems

a little trick ive tried in the past with 100% success on stubbon head bolts and other applications...get a small welder and have it on about 60-80 amps,then put at least a 4mm rod in and hold it on the head of the bolt untill the rod glows and before the thermal switch on the welder trips...there should be enough heat gone down into the bolt to release it.

disclaimer..dont try this if you've never used a welder before

a little trick ive tried in the past with 100% success on stubbon head bolts and other applications...get a small welder and have it on about 60-80 amps,then put at least a 4mm rod in and hold it on the head of the bolt untill the rod glows and before the thermal switch on the welder trips...there should be enough heat gone down into the bolt to release it.

disclaimer..dont try this if you've never used a welder before

 

 

 

BUGGER!!! did I do it wrong???

 

 

 

BUGGER!!! did I do it wrong???

 

 

 

 

:lol::lol::lol:...just perfect mate

failing that these will budge them,ive got a bluepoint set the same and they are the *****x,hammer them on for a good grip http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/m102/Irwin/Mechanics_Tools/f2349/index.html

I've gone for a spare 1.5 internal hex wheel nut packed with epoxy resin threaded onto each head bolt approx 3/4 of the way down the head bolt thread (ensuring no overspill).

That'll be solid within the next hour or so, but I'll leave it until the morning and then crank the headbolts off.

 

We'll see tomorrow morning if that's worked :blink:

 

 

 

Well ^^^^ that didn't work, too much oil residue still on the bolt!

 

So have just ordered the sockets recomended by Jimmer, 24hr delivery, so looks like it'll be another day or so

Success, at last the final head bolt is off and the full strip down can begin.

 

 

The Irwin 'Bolt Grips' sockets that were recommended by Jimmer arrived the other day and worked a treat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 17, 201114 yr by jap.slapper

Glad they worked mate,knew they would.Ive got a bluepoint set and they are mustard for rounded bolts.That engine has stock gaskets !!are the pistons new ?

Glad they worked mate,knew they would.Ive got a bluepoint set and they are mustard for rounded bolts.That engine has stock gaskets !!are the pistons new ?

 

 

The pistons are supposed to be new but I have no idea if they actually are mate

 

I won't mention the zed specialist in question as my other thread is still on hold pending approval by the committee

 

so in the mean time I'm going to crack on stripping the block and see what I find

The pistons are supposed to be new but I have no idea if they actually are mate

 

I won't mention the zed specialist in question as my other thread is still on hold pending approval by the committee

 

so in the mean time I'm going to crack on stripping the block and see what I find

 

Pending approval,do they really think that "specialist" has enough money to sue someone then,i doubt it.How long has that engine ran for ? those pistons look rather black.

Pending approval,do they really think that "specialist" has enough money to sue someone then,i doubt it.How long has that engine ran for ? those pistons look rather black.

 

 

The specialist may have amassed a hell of a lot of $, I suppose it depends on how many customers signed up for £10k builds and recieved £10 worth of work and parts

 

The engine was fired up for the the first time whilst I was there, the total running time was about 2 minutes and then it went onto the back of a trailor never to be started again.

 

All of the pistons are as black as a witches tit (specialist technical term)

 

I'll be giving you a bell shortly I reckon mate to discuss a future build, depending on what I have parts wise to re-build with

 

cheers for the top tips by the way bud

Your welcome matey,i hate to see people nailed by unscrupulous ****s.Im glad to help.I shall be watching this thread for updates.

One thing that I have found since stripping the engine out is this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

why would there be small metal shards this side of the mesh and what might have caused it?

One thing that I have found since stripping the engine out is this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

why would there be small metal shards this side of the mesh and what might have caused it?

 

Its probaly poor engine hygiene,left from the last car it came off or metal that was left in the oil cooler after a failure.

cheers bud