didn't even get down my drive this morning and the load stalled it....:blink:

 

now im presuming its an air leak after changing the plenum, but as for where i don't know,

 

 

here is where it isn't

 

intercooler hoses (lrg ones at front all 4 checked sealed and refitted)

 

plenum to manifold gasket( brand new and sealed with instant gasket both sides.)

 

acc (think that's what its called) at rear of plenum passenger side, new gasket and sealed with sealant)

 

throttle bodies new gaskets and sealant( no sealant went in the tb's)

 

balance bar new lrg rings sealant for smaller one,

 

all vacumme lines i know of have been replaced and tightened with silicon hose, inc lrg ones attached to the acc etc at the rear.

 

egr still fitted, new gaskets fitted.

 

seriously what have i missed? tried jeffs trick of disconnecting maf and started much better, so know its an air leak.

 

any help or advice would be appreciated, if i cant get it running right soon its going to have to go as its my daily drive :no::crying::crying:

can you not just hook it up with a boost leek tester and listen for the hissing to track it down?

 

dan.:cool3:

have you tried pressurising the intake system?

you can then listen for air leaks..

 

LOL.. just beat me.... good one... :)

no how would i do that?

no how would i do that?

 

engine switched off! take out the maf and stick in the boost leak tester then pressurise the system and you will hear any leaks!

 

dan.:cool3:

just looked them up didn't know what a boost leak tester was, so basically i need an electric Tyre pump and one of those kit?

they are so expensive lol reckon i could make one for e a fiver lol, Tyre valve and a lid or plate of some sort don't need a gauge.

 

thanks will try this when i get a change to go buy a 12v compressor.

I don't know how to post links to other threads on here but if you search the forum for 'diy boost leak' you'll see a sussex stu thread about making one with a coffee jar lid

i made mine too out of a Tin Lid and tyre valve ... lid being the same size as the Maf unit hole ...

 

but the normal tyre pump wont do it .. u need some sort of compressor with some big volume of air ...

found the brake bleeder i made (made from a Tyre valve and a brake cylinder cap worked amazingly for a 1 man bleeding kit) and it fits the maf hole perfectly, only used an old wheel so about 20~psi, seemed to be coming the drivers throttle body??? checked it and the i/c conector to it all good now im just really confused lol.:lol:

 

ill get a half decent 12v compressor, most are good for 100-200psi. and try again, just need to find time to go to halfords and get one.

the problem with the 12v compressor is the CFM - the amount of puff, with the smallest of leaks you will never fill the system, so with no pressure you will not hear any leaks

seemed to be coming the drivers throttle body??? checked it and the i/c conector to it all good now im just really confused lol.:lol:

 

Could be the top intake hose clamp on the throttle body or the rubber / silicone slightly overlapping the nurling... Had this on mine when did a leak test.. Silicone joiner was just overlapping the nurling causing a slight leak!

all solved and fixed back to her former glory (just alot louder -from new exhuast) lol

 

didn't buy anything used my bleeder as a boost leak tester and one of my spare alloys (actually pumper up this time) and found 3 leaks!!!

 

acc pipe the new silicon had split??? must have caught on something, the egr gasket on the drivers side (noise from before) had broken (was new so a bit weird lucky i had a spare) and my boost gauge take off was...off lol. idles nicely at 800rpm~ish, gauges read a nice stable vacumme.

 

 

really happy now, dont have to lose the zed, already had 2 days of the boss windging why are you late....:cursing: errrm no trains at 4am lol :2guns:

 

anyway thanks for all the help and tips, wouldn't have fixed it without your help. :thumbup::thumbup: