Some of you mentioned about using a spray gun instead of spray cans. Im tempted to go down this path, but having never used a spray gun before I have a few questions:

 

- Will I realistically be able to do a decent job first time?

- Can you give me advice on how to mix the paints?

- Where can i purchase all of the things i will need?

- How much are we talking for all of the items?

Your lucky day as ive recently bought everything you would need.

First of all, you would need to practice a little on a spare panel (not the car) to gauge distance and output. It only took me a few goes to get the hang of the spray gun and there are loads of youtube clips on paint spraying.

Mixing the paint varies with manufacturer and usually stated mix ratio on the side of the tin, however rule of thumb is 2:1 +10% for basecoat ( 2 parts paint, 1 part hardner and 10% thinners. High build primer is usually 4:1, but ive found without digger psi and constant pressure its a little thick, so i tried 3:1 then 2:1 till i was happy.

The coverage is amazing with the high build filler and the beauty of mixing the paint yourself with the hardner is that its virtually dry in half hour compared to rattle cans.

 

You can buy mixing cups with the mix ratio printed on the side, so that you can be consistent with the paint mixing.

 

On the spray gun, i use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S701G-Sealey-Professional-Gravity-Gold-Spray-Gun-/330415593476?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4cee4dd804

But with a 2.0mm spray, which is probably a llittle large for some basecoats, maybe go for the 1.4 as in the link.

The gun is very adjustable, in that you can control the pressure, fan and trigger.

 

I also bought a water catch inline before the gun to stop water, they are only about a fiver but well worth it.

 

Paint filters, cheap as chips and important to sieve out any particles in the paint before it goes into the paint cup on the top of the gun.

 

The trick is not to lay it on too thick for the first coat,more of a dust coat then wetter for the following coats, alloy about 15mins to flash off between coats, ( flash off, means to allow the chemicals in the paint to dissipate or you will end up trapping under the next layer and get misting/clouding in the paint.

 

The type of paint is also important, for instance you cant mix a rattle can with 2k or it will react, so keep the paints compatible.

 

Using 2k should really only be done in a booth with an extraction system and air fed mask, due to the cyantes in the hardner, its basically cyanide ( can be deadly if exposed for long periods of time)

 

Ive done some little bits in my garage with 2k ( naughty i know) i bought a proper particulate mask and is fine for small one off jobs ( i did some stuff for the engine bay).

 

Lots to take in lol, i spent weeks preparing my knowledge before starting, but i would never touch a rattle can again.

 

HTH so far.......

- Will I realistically be able to do a decent job first time?

- Can you give me advice on how to mix the paints?

- Where can i purchase all of the things i will need?

- How much are we talking for all of the items?

 

Yes - Take your time and accept that you will make a few mistakes. They can be sorted later. Take the time to prep properly. It's 90% prep.

 

I use water based colour coat, and they mostly come ready to spray over here.

Advantage is if you don't like it, or make an ar5e of it, it'll come off with a garden hose.

Clear coat I use is 3:1 or 2:1 with 10-20% thinners, depending on the brand.

Don't stress this part. You can use a mixing cup to get the ratios spot on.

 

eBay is a good source, as long as you are using a store run by an actual paint shop. It makes it easier to compare prices.

 

Primer - 10 p/ltr (and you don't always need to prime the whole car)

Paint - 40 p/ltr (need 5-7 ltr of water based for a complete change)

Clear coat - 10 p/ltr (2 litres should be enough)

Thinners - 10 p/ltr (3 ltr gives you enough for cleaning guns, panel wipe etc)

Mixing cups - 1 gets you 5ish

Strainers - 1 gets you 10ish

Tack rags - 10 gets you 5ish

Spray gun - varies (good 2nd hand deals, or cheaper new)

Compressor - don't skimp on this. better to borrow or hire a decent (oil-less!) one than to buy a cheaper sh1t one. make sure it has a water trap too, and non-silicone air hoses.

 

A few places will do you "kits" ie all the primer/paint/clear coat/thinners/hardener etc as a deal. Good value.

 

Take your time and do your research. Accept that you will not get a paint booth finish, and you will most likely need to break out the 2000 grit and polish at the end. Definitely worth the effort of learning.

I can't recommend this forum enough to people - it is a very good starting point.

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

 

Only down side is it is primarily geared towards Cellulose and 2K - it doesn't cover water based, and IMHO, that is the way to go. The principles are similar, and the prep guide is the same.

 

He does make it seem a bit of a science though, when it really is an art. Once you have done a few jobs, it really is all about the "feel".

A fantastic set of budget guns -

 

http://goo.gl/tuQTK

I bought one of these to do mine with , bearing in mind i havn,t sprayed a car for over 20 years but it came out quite well , even better after a flat and polish :thumbup: I was recommended by our sprayers that a 1.3 or1.4mm nozzle probably would have been better but it still worked ok .HTH

http://www.screwfix.com/p/metabo-fb2200-gravity-feed-spray-gun/67563

I've been thinking about this also, but don't have an enclosed area where I can paint.

 

However, I did find this -

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/michelin-mb24-24ltr-230v-compressor-5-piece-accessory-kit/24375

However, I did find this -

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/michelin-mb24-24ltr-230v-compressor-5-piece-accessory-kit/24375

 

It's definitely worth spending a bit more on a decent compressor that can run air tools like an impact gun - you will get more use and longevity out of a decent one. If you look down the bottom of the ad.....

 

Specifications:

Duty: occasional load

 

Compressors are something that you really do get what you pay for, and to be honest, that looks a bit chocolate... a bit more geared towards blowing up bike tyres and airbeds.

 

Better to rent or borrow than buy at that price if you only want it for one job.

 

Also, don't forget a water separator.

i picked up a compressor and gun set for £110

 

25lt 2.5hp twin output & Regulator

the gun as a 1.5mm jet

all so comes with normal air blower/tyre pump/oil sprayer

 

i have been spraying wheels with it for the last few weeks and its very good

 

Mark

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-Sioux-24L-2-5HP-9-5CFM-Air-compressor-/250872131094?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item3a6924ee16

Edited August 11, 201114 yr by MarkDerby

i picked up a compressor and gun set for £110

 

25lt 2.5hp twin output & Regulator

the gun as a 1.5mm jet

all so comes with normal air blower/tyre pump/oil sprayer

 

i have been spraying wheels with it for the last few weeks and its very good

 

Mark

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolf-Sioux-24L-2-5HP-9-5CFM-Air-compressor-/250872131094?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item3a6924ee16

 

it will be fine for little jobs like wheels but will struggle to work on a bodyshell.

3.0hp 50 litre 14 cfm would be a minimum requirement. 100l tank would be better.

IMO of course.

devilbiss gti pro, 1.4 mm fluid tip for base (1.6 for clear) 250 litre, 18cfm snap-on compressor

Thank you very much for your help so far :)

 

I dont seem to be able to find compressor hire for much less than 100 notes?? Then adding the cost of the gun, paint and other essentials we're looking at over £250 :crying: are we not??

True bud, but look at the cost of a respray by a garage probably £1k for a blow over. At least once you have all the gear you can take your time, do other projects, engine bits etc and have a compressor for air tools, so initial outlay has benefits.

 

I built most of my gear up over a few months rather than spend a chunk in one go, less painful that way lol. Also remember you could spend that on rattle cans to do the whole car, so actually a good price for a better finish.

True bud, but look at the cost of a respray by a garage probably £1k for a blow over. At least once you have all the gear you can take your time, do other projects, engine bits etc and have a compressor for air tools, so initial outlay has benefits.

 

I built most of my gear up over a few months rather than spend a chunk in one go, less painful that way lol. Also remember you could spend that on rattle cans to do the whole car, so actually a good price for a better finish.

 

This is true, £250 is ridiculously cheaper than a professional job. I began my current spray job with spray cans you see, and would need about £50 worth of cans to finish the job. So my scottish genes kicked in (pockets sewn)- the thought of forking out an extra £200 was not appealing...

 

However all the good threads above have made me have a rethink mid - spray job. I only have a budget of £100 max to get this finished tho, so what im thinking of doing is buying a decent 2nd hand compressor & spray gun off ebay, and then reselling it when ive finished?

More questions....

 

1) why does the compressor need to be at least 3hp and 14cfm?

2) how do you mix up the paints? Just put them in the pot and mix with a stick??

3) Can you recommend an online store from where i could my paints?

More questions....

 

1) why does the compressor need to be at least 3hp and 14cfm?

2) how do you mix up the paints? Just put them in the pot and mix with a stick??

3) Can you recommend an online store from where i could my paints?

 

I only have a 25 litre compressor and its been fine, its about maintaining a constant pressure/air flow, the larger the better, but then you enter a higher price bracket.

 

Yes pour the paint in the pot, then hardner, the thinners and mix thoroughly with a plastic mixing stick. I got some sticks thrown in at the paint supplier. Get a load of mixing/measuring cups, they are cheap as chips and really important to maintain the correct mix.

 

There are loads of paint suppliers out there, i use a local paint supplier who can mix the colour i want. It depends if you want a standard colour or specific. Google auto paint supplies and go from there or ebay.

paints are supplied by most Motor factors Morleys is the one i used

and Mixing is done with Pots with markers on them 2 to 1 / 3 to 1 / 4 to 1 and thinners %

 

Most Primer/Base coats are mixed at 2 to 1 ( 2 part paint 1 part hardner ) + 10% thinners

my 2k Clear coat is mixed at 4 to 1 ratio + 10% thinners

u mix with a plastic sticks one u dont that u use a Paper filter

and pour in to your gun ...

 

then its all about getting your Spray patten and amount right

 

spray to narrow u just take more timing spraying .. but to much paint will make runs

and it would be better if u can get some heat in the room your spraying in

helps with drying the paint faster

More questions....

 

1) why does the compressor need to be at least 3hp and 14cfm?

2) how do you mix up the paints? Just put them in the pot and mix with a stick??

3) Can you recommend an online store from where i could my paints?

 

1) It doesn't have to be, but recommended. As Groover said, all about constant flow and pressure. It will also run air tools properly, and more than likely last longer than the cheapo ones out there. The one you linked to said it itself; "occasional load". Look on it as an investment. Consider decent 2nd hand.

 

2) Essentially, yes. Mixing cups have already been mentioned a few times, strongly advised you buy a few. Pennies each. You can get disposable wooden stirrers, I have an old stainless steel rule that I use.

 

Paint will often have the ratio marked on the tin. It is even easier if you use waterbased paint. More eco friendly too.

 

3) Many places - as I mentioned before, look for eBay stores run by actual paint shops as a starting point. If there is a decent shop near you, why not buy there - then they are there to help, give advice, answer questions etc. Don't avoid one if it is just because you are unsure. Best way to learn.

 

4) Have you checked out the website I linked to? Loads of advice, hints & tips there.