powered steering pumps.

Above is teh exploded veiw of a powered steering pump for the zed, this one is for an na, hence why there is only half a pump, the tt versions have a second impellor running at the rear and a sepearte feed from the resivoir.

anyways, if yours is leaking and you fancy fixing it, here are my experinces for you.

the most common leakage points are the front seal

the 'o' ring or rings under the feed from teh resivoir

or the pump body gaskets

the copper washers on the high pressure lines obviously can fail too.

the whole thing can be disasselbed with a 12 and 14mm spanner. you will need circlip pliers aswel to acess the front oil seal and bearing.

the most important thing is to make sure it goes back ghow it came apart obviously. you will notice when you get to the point of having it fully disabled, takes about 10 minutes. the cam ring, has letters printed on it. make sure this line up and corrospond with the imprint of the letter left of the pump face. a good tip would be to diassable it over a tray to catch all that oil and to catch the vanes, which will fall out. its usefull to pop a pice of tape over the rotor once the vanes are in to keep them inplace remove this before ressembly. have one final check as tyou spide teh shaft back into the body of the pump to check that cam ring is correct i refitted mine 180 dgereees out, it stops teh pump working and ment i had to pull it out and try again.

after this bleeding teh rack is best done wit the front still jacked up. worjking from lock to lock. i actually managed to pull teh pump out of my tt with the rad still inplace, i onl;y removed the induction pipes taht where in the way, and moved the ptu to keep it safe and give soem extra room, removing the front pully before trying to lift it out makes teh whole job far easier, and putting it back on once the pump is in situe is also easier. in an n/a the job shuld be about 10 times easier. it took me and hellraiser around 4 hours to get the pump out the first time, between gassing like old women. the second time round i did the whole job in 3 hours and that includes 1 hour faffing about trying to get the pump back in the mount, remove the adjustment part atached to the block and it just fell in doh!, so whith these tips and knowledge it should be possible tp do a simple opull and replace in around two hours. :D

for those who have ever wondered what people are talking about when taking about removing something from the pump to disable it when doing hicas delete, its the vanes in the secondary rotor.

detron 3 auto fluid for refill aswel. sorry for any typos or sp's. im computer illerate.