hi guys,

 

i have had a couple water pumps fail and i think they have been down to my viscous spinning and wobbling about,

 

Problem is tried another viscous and all seems ok, exept the viscous is really loud exspecially when i come off the throttle on the over run, its all you can hear,

 

is this normal drove a few zeds and never heard the viscous so loud before, do you guys think this one is sticking a little and working to much, or do you think i have drove a few zeds with weak viscous,

 

Also have a problem if i put my foot down the car go's to around 3000 revs then pauses for a second then go's again for a bit then pauses, at what seems the same revs in each gear,

I have a profec 2 boost controller if i turn it off it go's into saftey boost 7 ish psi but dont get the pauses in revs anymore,

 

had the normal hesitation with dodgy connections but this one seems weird,

 

Sorry for the long thread any help appreciated, thank you.

check the fan when its spinning, is the centrifugal force making it vibrate as this will kill a water pump quite quickly, also check to see if the clutch on the fan is toast, did you change the clutch with the fan?

 

are the bolts holding the fan clutch to the water pump pulley out slightly? they should all protrude the same length from the pulley.

 

another thing to check, is the belt too tight?

 

as for the 3k revs, sounds like a maf fault, but could be due to the boost controller, do you have a vac leak anywhere?

check the fan when its spinning, is the centrifugal force making it vibrate as this will kill a water pump quite quickly, also check to see if the clutch on the fan is toast, did you change the clutch with the fan?

 

are the bolts holding the fan clutch to the water pump pulley out slightly? they should all protrude the same length from the pulley.

 

another thing to check, is the belt too tight?

 

as for the 3k revs, sounds like a maf fault, but could be due to the boost controller, do you have a vac leak anywhere?

 

hi mate, yeah changed clutch and fan, everything is tight and not wobbling now just seems to be spinning alot faster then seen on a zed before even when cold the viscous is spinning fast and letting off a lot of air,

 

Maybe i have had week viscous on the zeds before, thats why i couldnt hear them, sounds like an aeroplane going up the road not a zed lol.

 

gonna have a look at all the hoses and check in a bit,

 

Also never got to send them turbo parts off, Been stuck at work late all week,

you still need them mate, off work tomorrow should be able to send them if you like.

 

thanks for reply.

hi mate, yeah changed clutch and fan, everything is tight and not wobbling now just seems to be spinning alot faster then seen on a zed before even when cold the viscous is spinning fast and letting off a lot of air,

 

Maybe i have had week viscous on the zeds before, thats why i couldnt hear them, sounds like an aeroplane going up the road not a zed lol.

 

gonna have a look at all the hoses and check in a bit,

 

Also never got to send them turbo parts off, Been stuck at work late all week,

you still need them mate, off work tomorrow should be able to send them if you like.

 

thanks for reply.

 

try the fan when its cold (by hand when the engine ISNT running lol), it should be quite stiff to turn, it loosens up as the engine heats the clutch up

 

are you sure its the vascous you can hear and not the one stuck to the aircon rad under the nose panel?

 

Not sure im going to need the turbo parts at the moment, ended up buying new turbos off of kinugawa which hopefully will be arriving this week so i can get them on the new engine.

I'd say possible viscous problem as well and maf for thensecond fault. Is the car idling at the right rpm? The zed fan does make it sound quite large as it is anyway

try the fan when its cold (by hand when the engine ISNT running lol), it should be quite stiff to turn, it loosens up as the engine heats the clutch up

 

are you sure its the vascous you can hear and not the one stuck to the aircon rad under the nose panel?

 

Not sure im going to need the turbo parts at the moment, ended up buying new turbos off of kinugawa which hopefully will be arriving this week so i can get them on the new engine.

 

its defo the viscous, It spins ok by hand, to be honest it seems ok just very loud, more fan noise then engine noise,

 

Well if you do need parts just let me know mate.

I'd say possible viscous problem as well and maf for thensecond fault. Is the car idling at the right rpm? The zed fan does make it sound quite large as it is anyway

 

hi mate car seems to idle fine around 750rpm with air con off around 950rpm with it on,

gonna have a look round maf, maybe when i turn boost controller off their is less air or something being measured across it,

 

think it may just be me with fan where it wasnt working now it is, thats all i can hear,

 

thanks for your reply.

It should be the movment of air you can hear, rather than the fan itself. The volume of air being pulled can be noisy on engine startup, but should then quieten down quite quickly.

try the fan when its cold (by hand when the engine ISNT running lol), it should be quite stiff to turn, it loosens up as the engine heats the clutch up

 

When cold(er) the Viscous should spin freely by hand, and when warmer there should be more resistance.

 

However...Its quite normal for a viscous fan to be locked up when completely cold. So it will be noisy for the first few seconds, even up to a minute or so on engine startup. But then the fluid will starts circulating and the fan will slow down to correct speed for cold running.

 

It will then start to lock up and get faster as temperature rises..but should not then be that loud, unless overheating.

Edited July 25, 201114 yr by Yowser

It should be the movment of air you can hear, rather than the fan itself. The volume of air being pulled can be noisy on engine startup, but should then quieten down quite quickly.

 

 

When cold(er) the Viscous should spin freely by hand, and when warmer there should be more resistance.

 

However...Its quite normal for a viscous fan to be locked up when completely cold. So it will be noisy for the first few seconds, even up to a minute or so on engine startup. But then the fluid will starts circulating and the fan will slow down to correct speed for cold running.

 

It will then start to lock up and get faster as temperature rises..but should not then be that loud, unless overheating.

 

i think its just me where old one was not working and now i can hear it,

its defo working cause before the top of the engine was hot to touch but now even after a long run its only warm to touch,

 

thanks for your reply

Hi again,

 

tried another maf and still the same and done a boost leak check no leaks at all.

 

Another thing i noticed it is doing is on the run down once it gets below 2000rpm you can hear the exhaust popping constantly (pop pop pop) lol.

 

i took car for a longer run if i drive it normal its smooth and no problem at all but when you put your foot down it feels like im putting foot down letting off a bit putting foot down letting off a bit all the way through the rev range,

 

The best way i can explain is if you take a vacum hose off some cars the idle revs up and down its like that, its really regular not like a misfire,

power // // no power // // power // // no power.

 

Switch the boost controller off safety boost but revs fine, anyone had a profec break as all the hoses to it are fine. and setings are the same.

 

Sorry for posting long annoying threads, anyone think of anything else i can do or check, thank you.

This sounds fuel/timing related to me...... the exhaust popping on over-run is the gases exploding to late, ie, in the exhaust system,,, over fuelling or timing issues. The surge of power/no power issue could be the same cause. Black soot over the rear bumper is a sure sign of over-fuelling.

Check ur timing marks...

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=152682

 

Are you running standard injectors or A/M ones, and do you have a chipped ECU.

:crying:

This sounds fuel/timing related to me...... the exhaust popping on over-run is the gases exploding to late, ie, in the exhaust system,,, over fuelling or timing issues. The surge of power/no power issue could be the same cause. Black soot over the rear bumper is a sure sign of over-fuelling.

Check ur timing marks...

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=152682

 

Are you running standard injectors or A/M ones, and do you have a chipped ECU.

 

Hi mate, running standard injectors and central 20 ecu whatever that is, it came with the engine,

 

its weird though cause if i turn boost controller off every thing is fine no popping or power/no power issues at all. surely if it was an engine problem it would do it all the time.

 

second i turn boost controller on its like the boost controller is letting turbos wind up then shutting them down then winding them up shutting them down,

but even with the problem it goes to fast to take my eyes off the road to look what gauge is doing lol.

 

Will check all the marks tomorrow,

 

thank you.

 

really starting to think my boost controller as died, wondering if anyone else as had one fail. :crying:

More likely the B/C solenoid is fubar, the electronic side of things are pretty bullet-proof.

More likely the B/C solenoid is fubar, the electronic side of things are pretty bullet-proof.

 

Can u buy them on their own,

 

Think what im gonna try tomorrow is put all standard stuff back on see how it is then,

 

If it works ok its gotta be something to do with boost controller, can you test the B/c solenoid,

 

thanks 4 reply.

I notice you've said all along, if you turn the boost controller off, it goes into safety boost, well that's not normal, with the boost controller off, it should be normal boost, not safety boost. Have you tried putting the ECU in diag mode to see if there are any error codes? Or do you live local to someone with a Conzult? Sounds to me like the boost controller is doing it's thing, spooling the turbos up more etc, then because the ECU thinks it should be in safety boost it's then cutting the boost supply before it gets too high.

I notice you've said all along, if you turn the boost controller off, it goes into safety boost, well that's not normal,

 

If the boost solenoids have been disconnected ( often are with boost controllers ) it will default to the same boost level as safety when the controller is switched off.

 

Jeff TT

If the boost solenoids have been disconnected ( often are with boost controllers ) it will default to the same boost level as safety when the controller is switched off.

 

Jeff TT

 

I thought with the boost solenoids disconnected it would simply default to whatever the turbo wastegate was set to, which I assumed on standard tubbies, would be higher than safety and closer to standard, i.e. the solenoids were only used for turning the boost down, not up. But you'd know better than I in that respect, so that's another nugget of information for my own car, cheers Jeff.

I thought with the boost solenoids disconnected it would simply default to whatever the turbo wastegate was set to, which I assumed on standard tubbies, would be higher than safety and closer to standard, i.e. the solenoids were only used for turning the boost down, not up. But you'd know better than I in that respect, so that's another nugget of information for my own car, cheers Jeff.

 

sorry forgot to say solenoids have been removed, Think solenoids work to raise the boost a little, as far as i remember the standard pipes even have a type of boost jet/mig tip type thing in them.

 

Thanks 4 your replys.

I thought with the boost solenoids disconnected it would simply default to whatever the turbo wastegate was set to, which I assumed on standard tubbies, would be higher than safety and closer to standard, i.e. the solenoids were only used for turning the boost down, not up. But you'd know better than I in that respect, so that's another nugget of information for my own car, cheers Jeff.

 

yeh, essentially Safety boost is Normal boost. (wastegate setting). The solenoids essentially raise boost (like a boost controller - by hiding the atual boost seen by the wastegate) when no issues are detected by ECU.

yeh, essentially Safety boost is Normal boost. (wastegate setting). The solenoids essentially raise boost (like a boost controller - by hiding the atual boost seen by the wastegate) when no issues are detected by ECU.

 

Come to think of it that actually makes more sense thinking about the way boost controllers work, if the wastegate setting was higher than safety boost, you wouldn't be able to use a controller to bring the boost level down, only up.

 

Cool, Cheers.

Come to think of it that actually makes more sense thinking about the way boost controllers work, if the wastegate setting was higher than safety boost, you wouldn't be able to use a controller to bring the boost level down, only up.

 

Cool, Cheers.

 

I'm a bit confused as to what you mean here. To clarify - you can only use a boost controller to increase boost above actuator pressure (wastegate setting/safety boost). For example - if you have an EBC and you turn it off you will still get boost - actuator pressor (~7psi).

 

Back to Terry's car - if you've checked the clutch on the fan is free when the engine is cold mate it sounds like perhaps your old fan clutch was slipping so you weren't used to the noise of a working one? Just as a double check - check that it's not the electric sub fan in front of the radiator you can hear as this would indicate a fault. My viscous fan is quite noisey on startup for probably about 20 seconds then it fades out to pretty quiet unless you're listening for it then as the car warms up it speeds up and gets louder again.

 

The boost problem sounds like it would be either your boost solenoid or perhaps a split pipe/boost leak opening up when your turbos spool up to a certain pressure? Then when the boost has leaked out the split closes until the boost builds back up and opens the split again. HTH

I'm a bit confused as to what you mean here. To clarify - you can only use a boost controller to increase boost above actuator pressure (wastegate setting/safety boost). For example - if you have an EBC and you turn it off you will still get boost - actuator pressor (~7psi).

 

I don't understand why what I said was confusing, I said the same thing as you?

if the wastegate setting was higher than safety boost, you wouldn't be able to use a controller to bring the boost level down, only up.

 

Sorry mate I wasn't being funny - just clarifying my own thoughts and yours really. It was the above quote and the bold part that was confusing me - you can only use a boost controller to take the boost level up. You can't go lower than the wastegate setting. That's the part I was trying to make clear for anyone else reading as well. You can only go upwards of 7psi on a Zed with stock actuators.

I'm a bit confused as to what you mean here. To clarify - you can only use a boost controller to increase boost above actuator pressure (wastegate setting/safety boost). For example - if you have an EBC and you turn it off you will still get boost - actuator pressor (~7psi).

 

Back to Terry's car - if you've checked the clutch on the fan is free when the engine is cold mate it sounds like perhaps your old fan clutch was slipping so you weren't used to the noise of a working one? Just as a double check - check that it's not the electric sub fan in front of the radiator you can hear as this would indicate a fault. My viscous fan is quite noisey on startup for probably about 20 seconds then it fades out to pretty quiet unless you're listening for it then as the car warms up it speeds up and gets louder again.

 

The boost problem sounds like it would be either your boost solenoid or perhaps a split pipe/boost leak opening up when your turbos spool up to a certain pressure? Then when the boost has leaked out the split closes until the boost builds back up and opens the split again. HTH

 

Yeah i reckon my new fan is ok now and as you say old one was doing nothing so couldnt hear it, now have one that works can hear it, and as im really listening for it making it seem to loud,

 

I have done a boost leak check and have no leaks, its that sealed i can pump air in walk away for bit pull small vacum hose off and then it releases air.

 

Really starting to think its the boost solenoid or boost controller too, didnt get chance to look at it today so hopefully i will find the problem tomorrow,

 

Bloody zeds who would have one lol:lol:

 

Bloody zeds who would have one lol:lol:

 

Erm .... Us lot :D But I know what you mean. I've currently got a boost leak which is somewhere under the plenum, when I finally get all my parts to do my upper and lower plenum change and bypasses while it's off etc. I'll finally find it and fix it :D

Erm .... Us lot :D But I know what you mean. I've currently got a boost leak which is somewhere under the plenum, when I finally get all my parts to do my upper and lower plenum change and bypasses while it's off etc. I'll finally find it and fix it :D

 

Just hope one day i can get in my car and not think whats gonna break next,

Put some coins the other day near the ashtray they started rattling all i thought straight the way is what now,

 

Every other car i have had you just drive them, sure with the zed im finding things to fix.

 

Once you have had plenum off and bypass all the crap, if you ever take it off again its so much easier, you probly know this anyhow, All them silly water pipes, egr,

 

When i did mine got rid of nearly all the vacum hoses too, exept boost gauge and couple others, looks a lot less cluttered.

 

Where do you reckon its leaking on yours on one of the main gaskets.

 

Goodluck with your plenum,