chitty chitty bang bang .. :(

[MarkDerby]

well had the car for two weeks and the engine has just thrown a Conrod

at 60pmh ... not good Oil and bits left on the a50 if anyone wants any engine parts ... lol

 

had a few conserns with the Pre-owner about the oil gauge being all over the place has any one had the oil pump fail on them ?

 

i asume the Big end Bearing has spun and then snapped the end clamp on the rod

 

does any one have an Engine and Full conversion to Manual there selling ?

 

what Tips on getting the engine out as i will be doing this with no manual as i carnt find the holy bible book

 

Tools & Engine lift i'm sorted with

 

Mark

[JeffTT]

Weird that is the 3rd engine failure of this nature in the last month??

 

Jeff TT

[rising son]

silly question but was the sump dented?, i was told to look for this when i was looking

[MarkDerby]

nope .. it was fine i was only under the car yesterday looking on how to fit my new exhaust system ..

[rising son]

gutted for you bud, hope you get it sorted without breaking the bank

[Smithy]

2 weeks, yikes feel for yer mate..

where you get it? was it a cheapo?

smithy

[MarkDerby]

it was 2k cheap .. im in talks with the Bloke/garage it came from ..

 

i got it from a garage in Nottingham where i get my Nos system refilled he sold it for a customer of his .. this garage as worked/serviced it since it was imported

i'am the 2nd owner of the car its been looked after as theres plenty of recipts for work and services

 

the garage are going to help in some way but what i dont know untill i speak to him on tuesday but may as well do the manual swop too at the same time

 

2k for the car

Kenwood Top of the range headunit

JBL Speaker system

Sub

Toad Cat 1 alarm/imoblizer

theft tracker

FSH...

12months MOT ..

the Last Bill on the car was over 1200

for Prop/Oil Seals/Sump/ and load of other little things

[vodkashots]

engine out.

 

Remove 30amp fuel pump fuse located in the small fuse box, drivers side of engine bay and crank engine to relieve pressure in the fuel pipes

Disconnect battery and remove

Either remove bonnet

 

Jack car and place on Axel stands, Or use wheel ramps

Drain water

Drain gearbox

Drain Engine oil if there is some left

Remove engine fan

Remove rad cowl if you have it.

Undo rad brackets

Undo Top rad pipe and lower rad pipe from the front of the engine hard pipes, undo the two small rubber pipes leading to two hard pipes that go towards the gear box at the bottom of the radiator, and remove the radiator

Undo and remove Inlet pipes from the throttle bodies

Undo and remove outlet pipes from turbos to intercoolers

Undo fuel lines to fuel bar, or in the case of having braided fuel lines, remove braided fuel line from fuel pressure regulator and (you will still leak fuel so be careful when doing this)

Undo balance bar and remove

If you have one, remove throttle cover

Unclip throttle cable and where applicable cruise control and swing out of the way

Unclip all 6 injectors

Unplug all 6 coil packs

Remove fuel rail (if its there)

Unplug at the back of the engine idle control valve / Dett sensor and anything else thats connecting the wiring harness to the engine

Unplug O2 sensor connectors

Unbolt wiring harness at both sides of engine

Unplug PTU / water temp sender and Water temp switch from hard pipe / CAS and move wiring harness out of the way (it should flex over to where the battery was)

 

Release the tension on the powersteering pump aux belt and remove

Rotate the engine using a 27mm socket on a breaker bar until you can get to the power steering pump bolt (about the 12oclock position through the hole in the powersteering pump pully) undo and remove the bolt and leaver the power steering pump free of the engine mount point (saves you having to buggering about draining the system)

 

I dont have A/C on mine, but its the same for the A/C side, release tension on the Aux belt and remove the mount bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the engine

 

Follow all vacuum hoses and remove as necessary from engine (labeled as required as they can be a nightmare to remember where they go)

 

Now there are two ways of doing this. you can either opt for dropping the front sub frame and taking the gearbox and engine out in one go. or you can take out the gearbox first (which is what i do as space is limited)

 

Gearbox removal

 

From under the car

 

Remove exhaust

Remove heat shield protecting propshaft

Undo 4 x Bolts on center prop bearing, mark with either spray, or tip ex for easy lining up when you come to rejoin them

Remove 2 x bolts and spacers from prop bearing housing. use a large flat head screw driver to get the two halves apart and pull the prop from the rear of the gear box.

 

unbolt Positive from battery off the back of the start motor, unbolt start motor and remove

 

there are 2 oil metal feed lines that go towards the front of the car from the gearbox and meet 2 rubber hoses just before the rad that should already have been done when the rad was removed, now you can remove the hard lines from the gearbox so its easier to get the gearbox out with having to worry about them, same with the gearbox dipstick. though the dipstick will seem as though its stuck as it has a gearbox mount plate on it that is bolted to the gearbox, the Positive cable that runs from the battery down to the starter motor is also cable tied to the auto dipstick

 

Undo the bolts holding the lower half of the gearbox to the engine. (don't forget the ones near the oil filter as they face the opposite way, there is also one on the other side of the engine that also faces the wrong way)

 

Now, using a jack get the jack under the rear of the gearbox, and undo the gear selector arm, and start undoing the 6 bolts holding the gearbox to the middle of the car

 

At this point its a good idea to unplug the gearbox, the plugs go up into the engine bay and connect to the 4 plugs at the rear of the drivers side headlight on the shell of the car. feed these back down to the gear box and cable tie out of the way

 

Once you have removed the 6 bolts holding the rear of the gearbox to the car, lower the jack, this will force the engine to lean back on its self. exposing the top 4 bolts that you wouldn't of been able to get to very easily.

 

Now using 3 x 3" extension, 1 10" extension a swivel head thingy, and a 14mm socket. loads of patients and a cup of coffee here and there, remove the final 4 bolts from the gear box.

 

You should now be able to split the gearbox from the engine (it wont fall straight away as the torque converter will be in the way. but ease it out gently and it will come eventually

 

Once the gear box is out, undo the engine mount nuts x2, strap your engine up to the hoist and start lifting slowly, once you get a bit of room at the rear of the engine, remove the 2 water pipes that feed the heater matrix in the cabin, now continue to lift slowly and pay attention to anything that is still connected to the engine and remove as necessary.

 

Things to watch out for

 

The wiring harness for the alternator, its a bit fiddly to get to, but can be undo as your lifting the engine, but pay attention and lift slowly to avoid snapping wires

 

Make sure you can hook your hoist as close to the engine as possible, or your not going to clear the slam panel.

 

I might of missed something in this lot as ive typed it from memory. lol

Edited May 28, 2011 by vodkashots

[groover]

I cant believe you wrote that lot lol, im too lazy so heres my contribution :biggrin:

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

Edited May 27, 2011 by groover

[MarkDerby]

Fook Me thats a bloody assay lol ..

 

but its kinda simple the only thing thats diffrent on mine to what you listed is i have uprated oil coolers

 

think i may take the engine and box out together due to no car lift just front ramps and on the floor

 

Mark

[Steams]

I cant believe you wrote that lot lol, im too lazy so heres my contribution :biggrin:

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/enginetech.html

 

He must be bored :lol:

Edited May 27, 2011 by groover

[vodkashots]

my fingers needed some exercise :tt2:

[Tudor...]

you couldn't even be bothered writing your 'contribution' :rofl:

[MarkDerby]

all so i asume every bolt is 12mm/14mm/16mm/18mm ?

[Steams]

12, 14 and 17 mainly.

[vodkashots]

12, 14 and 17 mainly.

 

Dont forget 10mm for the smaller bolts, and hope to god some bugger hasnt done an engine change on your car before and used different sized nuts in the wrong locations :lol:

[Steams]

Dont forget 10mm for the smaller bolts, and hope to god some bugger hasnt done an engine change on your car before and used different sized nuts in the wrong locations :lol:

 

I had a cut off torx bolt holding my alt on, that was a bugger.:sneaky2:

[MarkDerby]

some one said theres an Jap Auto Braker in Beaston nottingham does any one know

 

and whats Nippon like .. lol

[vodkashots]

I had a cut off torx bolt holding my alt on, that was a bugger.:sneaky2:

 

Should of seen me taking the engine and gear box out of my breaker, there were all sorts of different sizes, it was getting to the point i was just going to angle grind everything away from the engine until the engine fell on the floor :devil2:

[groover]

you couldn't even be bothered writing your 'contribution' :rofl:

 

Edit is a wonderful thing :lol:

[Kaza Steve]

love it mate ..great write up ....especially removing the gearbox "genitaly"

 

how much coffee does that take LOL

[vodkashots]

love it mate ..great write up ....especially removing the gearbox "genitaly"

 

how much coffee does that take LOL

 

about 10 :whistling:

 

 

....goes off to edit post lol

[MarkDerby]

looks like my sump has been shot .. lol

there is Parts of the engine sitting at the bottem of sump too

 

[mantav8]

from a garage in Nottingham where i get my Nos system refilled

 

Would that be Mick at Colwick?:detective:

[mantav8]

Also have to wonder why it had a Sump?:confused1: