As per a previous post I thought the new Z was a little slow but the boost gauge doesn't work and sits at -14 all the time. Fitted an aftermarket gauge this weekend and took it for a spin. The gauge only reads 0.4 bar so not full boost.

 

I've had the car on conzult a few weeks ago and there were no error codes, are we talking a boost leak here?

 

On a plus note fitted the stereo so at least I have some tunes in the car :walkman:

As per a previous post I thought the new Z was a little slow but the boost gauge doesn't work and sits at -14 all the time. Fitted an aftermarket gauge this weekend and took it for a spin. The gauge only reads 0.4 bar so not full boost.

 

I've had the car on conzult a few weeks ago and there were no error codes, are we talking a boost leak here?

 

On a plus note fitted the stereo so at least I have some tunes in the car :walkman:

 

I would say yes a boost leak, do you know why the stock boost gauge doesnt work? Could be that the pipe to it has popped of - hence why it doesnt work and would explain your boost leak nicely!

Is the sender for the gauge new the fuse box on the drivers side at the back of the engine bay?

Is the sender for the gauge new the fuse box on the drivers side at the back of the engine bay?

 

Yup! The little pipe split on my first zed at one point so had to find it, really tucked into almost under the scuttle panel

Cheers bud, will have look tomorrow as it's raining now, from memory it's just a small black box not much bigger than a match box

Cheers bud, will have look tomorrow as it's raining now, from memory it's just a small black box not much bigger than a match box

 

Yeah I think so mate, other than that its a boost leak test. But since that isnt working its a likely candidate I would have thought... two birds with one stone and all that!

Found an egr vacuum line off but boost gauge still not working so maybe need another sender unit?

When I picked my Zed up I had the same problem with the Stock gauge. The pipe had split on the sender unit (the one that you said sits on the drivers wing near the bulk the size of a match box) new bit of hose and good as new.

When you say still not working, you mean still low on boost or the gauge isn't working still?

Doesn't move at all from under -14

I reckon it's the sender. Try giving the screen covering the mph/rev counter a tap may be a loose connection behind the gauge?

Well had the manifold off and resealed, aiv/egr solenoids and vac lines gone, sender line changed but still only .4bar, any ideas???

you need to do a vac test check. (i.e. pressurize the system and listen for leaks).. that way you can either find it or rule it out.... save guessing.

there are some posts on doing this....

 

easier if you know someone who has the gear set up.

 

this is a guide on the Oz forum...

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.488

Edited May 27, 201114 yr by Medallion Man

Guess my latest creation will come in handy http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=151018

 

Will try to look this weekend, I was convinced it was the manifold or egr returns, bolt missing on both

Didn't get chance to do the boost check yet as weather was crap but at the meet (only good weather) the conzult did the rounds on others car I put it back on mine. I now have a code 34!! which is det sensor issue so must of disturbed the wiring when the manifold came of for egr blankinh off Friday. If the manifold coming off fixed the boost leak could the code 34 now cause safety boost or would that come up as another error code on conzult??

Hope so, will be Friday before I can check the det sensor wiring and try again. I miss project 1, never had this crap to put up with lol.

Just found one of the wires to the det sensor is broken somewhere under the manifold, det sensor bypass it is then?!

At least you've found the problem now :)

Fingers crossed.

 

Local factors has a resistor but not sure of the rating, I know it needs to be 1meg ohm but his only says it reduces voltage from 12 down to 8volts Anyone know if this is enough?

At least you've found the problem now :)

 

BTW I've got the url for the japclub sorted

Fingers crossed.

 

Local factors has a resistor but not sure of the rating, I know it needs to be 1meg ohm but his only says it reduces voltage from 12 down to 8volts Anyone know if this is enough?

 

Bump, want to get the resistor tomorrow to see if I can get ful boost :gunsmilie:

Ok so now the resistor is fitted code 34 replaced with code 55, all clear! Took the car for a run and does feel faster but the 0.4 bar of boost has risen to a staggering 0.5bar :no:

 

I assume it should be around 0.75? anything else I can check?

The resistor bypass is only a temporary fix. Now if you get detting, the ECU won't know about it and you could do expensive damage. If you don't want to fix the det sensor where Nissan put it, you can always stick it on a stud at the rear of the engine. Mr F's got stock. Here's a how-to http://www.angelfire.com/geek/vg30dett/DSR/DetSenRel01.html

 

And another one with more choices as to location. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/786419/TECH-Detonation-Sensor-Relocation.html

Edited June 6, 201114 yr by Gio

Will relocate the sensor but want to fix boost first, good news is I have found a split hose drivers side under the plenum and the back!! Good job our new SFS hose kit will have that hose in, just need the tooling to be finished to make one :tt2: but for now it's running will insulation tape :whistling: well it leaks less now...

seem to have a leak myself, i noticed a definate loss of power tonite, tightened all the clamps i could see which made it slightly better but still missing some power

seem to have a leak myself, i noticed a definate loss of power tonite, tightened all the clamps i could see which made it slightly better but still missing some power

 

I have a leak tester you can borrow.

was hoping u might say something like that, u busy sunday?