iv seen one here somewhere and cant find it now, im in the middle of fitting mine and i dont like the way those brackets turn when fitted, poor design a fixed bar should be between the two cos from what i can make out if them centre brackets ever moved the rear wheels would too, this wouldnt happen with a fixed bar.

 

shall i just fit it and shut up?:stupid::stupid:

Does this help?

 

 

Thats lovely stuff, hopefully get mine fitted this week !

Well mate have to see how yours is when fitted. Had a hicas lock out bar before i fitted the driftworks ones and now and I hate to say this my backend seems more wobbly as the days go on.... :(

 

Maybe those center brackets arn't tight enough or those 4 spare nuts we're actually ment for something we've over looked... Wish driftworks did a fitting guide to explain how it all goes together...

The four extra nuts are to lock each of the bars !

The four extra nuts are to lock each of the bars !

 

I thought that but with the bigger nut's on it seemed to make the bar's too long so they wouldn't fit! Maybe the bottom bit near the shock where the old track rod arm connects to needs to be forced out a bit to get it in there.

I think there optional -

 

as in if your wheel is further away and theres part of the thread showing then you must use them to lock the bar properly.

 

But if it fits on its shortest then locking against the two side will do.

 

Mind some of these kit parts are for other cars too not just the zed.

Just wondering if we've not set our locking position right and maybe the wheels are toeing out giving that wobbly feeling???

i was just being a thicko and didnt see that the arm not only bolts through the bracket but the chasis too meaning the brackets are bolted up with 2 bolts each side. iv changed my mind good piece of kit, if anyone wants a pic let me know,

i was just being a thicko and didnt see that the arm not only bolts through the bracket but the chasis too meaning the brackets are bolted up with 2 bolts each side. iv changed my mind good piece of kit, if anyone wants a pic let me know,

 

Yes please mate! Be good to see how yours is bolted on compared to mine... Still be interested to see where the other 4 bigger nuts go!

ok mate if i get a pic on comp how do i upload it

ok mate if i get a pic on comp how do i upload it

 

You need to register yourself on photobucket.

http://photobucket.com/

You can upload your pictures from there and once you've done that just copy and paste the line of code under your photo that begins

into your message on here and voila!!

I believe the other 4 nuts, are for swapping with the already fitted adjustment locking nuts.

 

They should be narrower than those already on there....making the arm shorter when fully wound in to achieve more toe out than otherwise provided by the existing nuts.

I believe the other 4 nuts, are for swapping with the already fitted adjustment locking nuts.

 

They should be narrower than those already on there....making the arm shorter when fully wound in to achieve more toe out than otherwise provided by the existing nuts.

 

Could be right there Dave, had a look at my rear wheels by eye and it's looks like there towing in slightly but difficult to tell... Feels bloody horrible on both the left and the right hand side rear when going over drain covers in the road or raised bit's of tarmac.. Feels like it sliding to one side when you go over these.

i fitted mine a few weeks ago and had to use the smaller lock nuts..lee

after fitting if u aint had 4 wheel alignment done your never know if its right

i fitted mine a few weeks ago and had to use the smaller lock nuts..lee

 

Stupid question Lee but did you use them in conjunction with the bigger nuts either end or did you just swap the big ones for the small ones??

 

Cheers, Jon

thats disapointing news jon last i heard it was solid and you were happy! as the kit only comes in 3 components for each side and the brackets are marked L and R its pretty straight forward to fit, your old hicas bushes were pretty fooked and fell to bits when the arm was taken off! if i remember correctly the DWK locking arm fitted straight on without much effort but if we had fitted the other locking nuts the toe in would have been horrendoes! by all means if you think the other locking nuts fitted would make a difference then change them but i think it has been mentioned that your rear shocks may have a part to play in the rear going all over the place when you go over pot holes/man holes ect!

 

dan.:sad:

thats disapointing news jon last i heard it was solid and you were happy! as the kit only comes in 3 components for each side and the brackets are marked L and R its pretty straight forward to fit, your old hicas bushes were pretty fooked and fell to bits when the arm was taken off! if i remember correctly the DWK locking arm fitted straight on without much effort but if we had fitted the other locking nuts the toe in would have been horrendoes! by all means if you think the other locking nuts fitted would make a difference then change them but i think it has been mentioned that your rear shocks may have a part to play in the rear going all over the place when you go over pot holes/man holes ect!

 

dan.:sad:

 

It's really weird Dan, going in a straight line it's fine and no bouncing around like it used to. But now after a few days of just going 30Mph over little bumps in the road it really does wiggle to the left or right depending what side of the road the bumps are on and worse than before...

 

Totally agree with you that if we put the other nuts on as well as the ones that we're all ready on there then yes it would toe in to much as it would be pushing the rear of the wheels out too much to give toe in! Just wondering if the other nuts are smaller now as by eye when you look at my rear wheels they are toeing in.. Lee Dent mentioned he had to use the other nuts as the originals we're causing too much toe in..

 

Guess it's worth a try fitting the other nuts and seeing if it makes the rear wheels straight and true and with the car jacked up making sure there is no wiggle in the wheels and it's not something else that's fooked like a subframe bush. Was just guessing it was the shocks as the wiggle is still there.

 

Thanks again for fitting it the other day tho dude! :bow:

Stupid question Lee but did you use them in conjunction with the bigger nuts either end or did you just swap the big ones for the small ones??

 

Cheers, Jon

 

I removed the larger nuts and locked off the bar with the smaller nuts provided.The larger nuts are too big and was affecting the adjustment..Lee:biggrin:

there is a 4mm difference between the 2 sizes of bolt 1 being 12mm and the other 8mm so you would gain 8mm if you changed them over in the lenght of the arm but i may be wrong but regardless of what size bolts you have fitted i thought the idea of the DWK was it locks the rear so you wouldnt get any movement at all and once you tighten the arm up its locked solid.

 

dan.:confused1:

 

p.s. i thought the kit was a bit tight on washers!

Whichever nuts you've used should not have any affect on movement or play. Just the length of the arms, and hence the amount of tow when fully wound in.

 

Driftworks started including the extra thinner nuts because owners were complaining about not being able to have as much tow adjustment as they wanted.

 

The Car is going to need to have its geometry checked and adjusted after fitting any adjustable suspension component.

 

Incorrect tow will affect stability, but I would get under there and check the tightness of everything, incase something has worked loose.

I take it you have have bolted the subframe mounts on with 2 bolts per side dude?

Incorrect tow will affect stability, but I would get under there and check the tightness of everything, incase something has worked loose.

 

Gonna get under it again and swap it for the smaller nuts and have it geometry checked as i'm convined it's towing in too much... Found this great website that explains a lot about suspension adjustment.

 

 

 

http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehicle_Dynamics_-_Cause_and_Effect_Guide

I take it you have have bolted the subframe mounts on with 2 bolts per side dude?

 

It only bolts up with one bolt per side mate, straight where the old lock out bar used to go using the shorter bolts as per this picture...

 

 

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/suspension/nissan-suspension/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-nissan.html

 

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/410x328/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/H/i/HicasEliminator1_48.jpg

there is a 4mm difference between the 2 sizes of bolt 1 being 12mm and the other 8mm so you would gain 8mm if you changed them over in the lenght of the arm but i may be wrong but regardless of what size bolts you have fitted i thought the idea of the DWK was it locks the rear so you wouldnt get any movement at all and once you tighten the arm up its locked solid.

 

dan.:confused1:

 

p.s. i thought the kit was a bit tight on washers!

 

Yeah it does lock the rear Dan so we're not supposed to get any play in the wheels or that wobbly effect but I guess if the toe is wrong then that's whats causing my wobbley skittish issue over bumps and things in the road!!! The effect when going over a bump happens very quick but the back end does feel unsettled. It's great in a straight tho line and better than when I had that old lock out bar!

 

Guess i'll fit those smaller nuts and have it geometry checked on a 4 wheel lazer alignment unit to make sure it's as it should be... At least with the smaller nuts fitted it'll give the wheel alignment guy some room for adjustment!

 

I'll report back to you with the results dude then i'll help you fit yours when we know what nuts we're supposed to be using!

 

Lee says the small nuts we're good for him! :scared: