Just got back from the MOT test of my 300zx tt. FAILED!!!!

Devastated to say the least,:crying: After 4 years of work with regards to new sills/floor etc' etc'

 

I now find myself with problems that I am unsure of how to fix. I really would appreciate some help and advice please.

 

(1) During break testing, the tester said he thought he had just blown a line at the rear, sure enough, after looking underneath there was fluid pi**ing down onto the right hand side exhaust system, heartbreaking or what.

 

(2) Both rear top tie-bar bushes were shot, causing excessive movement from left to right. When I asked him if this was a big job he would not commit himself. (What do you guy's think? Could I do it myself?)

 

(3) Next came the Emissions, Failed on all 3 idle tests!!

I have include the results for the first fast idle,

could someone suggest the possible remedy please?

 

CO, Target 0.300 Max. Actual reading, 4.251

 

HC, Target 200 Max. Actual reading, 265.

 

Lambda, Target 0.970 to 1.030. Actual 0.888.

 

One thing I did notice, On the emissions printout, it listed the vehicle as,

Nissan 350Z, Does this mean the test could be to stringent for the 300zx?

 

These figures do not mean a lot to me so would someone be kind enough to suggest the probable cause please?

At the moment I feel as though it is the end of the world, hopefully it's not.

Thanks in advance, Dave.

defo not a 350Z test!!!! and its a 92, what month (I think if its pre august)... again totally different requirements...

also if it's a jap spec they also can be in a different category.

Just got back from the MOT test of my 300zx tt. FAILED!!!!

Devastated to say the least,:crying: After 4 years of work with regards to new sills/floor etc' etc'

 

I now find myself with problems that I am unsure of how to fix. I really would appreciate some help and advice please.

 

(1) During break testing, the tester said he thought he had just blown a line at the rear, sure enough, after looking underneath there was fluid pi**ing down onto the right hand side exhaust system, heartbreaking or what.

 

(2) Both rear top tie-bar bushes were shot, causing excessive movement from left to right. When I asked him if this was a big job he would not commit himself. (What do you guy's think? Could I do it myself?)

 

(3) Next came the Emissions, Failed on all 3 idle tests!!

I have include the results for the first fast idle,

could someone suggest the possible remedy please?

 

CO, Target 0.300 Max. Actual reading, 4.251

 

HC, Target 200 Max. Actual reading, 265.

 

Lambda, Target 0.970 to 1.030. Actual 0.888.

 

One thing I did notice, On the emissions printout, it listed the vehicle as,

Nissan 350Z, Does this mean the test could be to stringent for the 300zx?

 

These figures do not mean a lot to me so would someone be kind enough to suggest the probable cause please?

At the moment I feel as though it is the end of the world, hopefully it's not.

Thanks in advance, Dave.

 

1. break lines are not that difficult to replace

2. not sure haven't had to change one

3. he has tested your vehicle as a 350z so the readings are wrong as the 350z is more economical, not to mention the completely different engine. considering the age vs that of a 300zx.

 

also what year is it? as this would also effect the reading as it can be tested as a non cat car if its 1992 and below

1. Oh dear, quite a big job to replace the rear brake lines and a weak spot - good thing they went on MOT. I believe you have to remove the rear subframe but its possible if your good mechanically.

 

2. Not sure exactly what bit he means, there was a technical document from nissan around that area stating that some play was "acceptable". However, since for the above job the rear subframe is probably coming of I cant imagine its a huge job to fettle once its all in bits

 

3. The emissions, well most zeds fail on emissions... however the car SHOULD NOT be tested as a 350z, its because there is no model data for the 300zx and so just has to pass a "BET" basic emissions test (IIRC?) which is much less stringent. However there are some issues i would say due to the very bad emissions, is it decatted? Any vacuum leaks?

If its a fairlady it has to go down as a pre cat teast due to the Fairlady not being on the data base :wink:

 

Rear brake lines can be a pig depending on where it has gone. your rear subframe needs to be droped and can be costly to fix :(

 

Ive got my MOT a 2ish :wack:

Ive got my MOT a 2ish :wack:

 

What nice bits have you got on your car?? ;) Vulchers circling...

None cat CO% Max limit is 3,500

None cat HC PPM Vol max limit is 1200

 

You would fail on the CO still.

if its a 1992 and pre cat then they should onlu do an idle test. should be no fast idle etc as they are for cat models

Firstly, Thanks for the responses so far guy's:thumbup1:

 

Hi Medalion Man, My 300zx is a UK model, Date of registration was 18th of September 1992.

 

Vodkashots, Hi also, Thanks for the info regarding the test spec' I will bear this in mind when (if?) I next get her tested.

I will have to do a bit of research and see if I have the b**ls to tackle the work myself.:censored:

 

Hi Quavey, Thanks for the input, As for the bushes I'm not sure myself, He said he has marked the offending items with chalk, so when I am over the disappointment, I will get in there and have a look.

As for the emissions, to the best of my knowledge there are no leaks, ironically she runs very smoothly, could it be down to burning oil? she has been standing for some time.:scared:

As for the pipes, they are fairly old and are an original cat type exhaust.

Would this explain the bad emissions??

 

Cheers for the info also Car Mad, As to dropping the sub frame, I think that is a bit beyond my ability I'm afraid.:scared:

 

By the way Quavey, I might have some rusty break pipe available by the sound of things, interested?:wink::tt2:

 

Vokashots, With that said about the emissions, what would be your best guess as to the main cause?

Mine passed it's emissions test and it is de-catted, has a single exit backbox, overfuels like a b*tch and popped a massive shotgun flame during the test.. I think it depends very much on where you go what they let you off with. This guy had a 750hp evo and 400hp skyline in stock so showed some leniancy. Try elsewhere for that part and ask in advance if they'll be nice ;)

 

As for the rest, it doesn't sound easy or cheap to fix :(

All pre-95 Z's are tested as non-cat equipped, and should easily pass this. The tester clearly did'nt know what he was doing, could not find your car on the Database so selected the nearest (incorrect) model.

 

Do you have results for a standard idle test ?

 

 

If its the rubber brake hose thats failed, then that is a relatively simple replacment. If its the Metal lines, then unfortuantly they are a big job to replace. You need to drop the rear subframe to replace them.

 

For the rear arms the cheapest and simplest option is to get some good condition 2nd hand arms. Alternatively you can get new bushes and have them machine pressed in. Or you can get adjustable arms with spherical bearings fitted.

redwine, im on my way past coventry on sunday, i could pop in later in the day once ive changed a gear box for someone if you want. we can have a look over the problems for you

Hi Vokashots, That,s very kind of you, I would be very grateful if you could stop by,:thumbup1: you would be more than welcome. On the face of it I am going to need all the help I can get.

How should I have the car? I'm guessing up on stands, wheels off etc'. I will do what ever I can to help. Shall I pm you my address/phone no' etc'?

im not disclosing where, or any names, but my mates car :innocent: has never had an emission test done, they accidently put the exhuast probe in the car next to it :oops:

Couldn't the metal brake pipes be spliced and re-routed through a more spanner friendly route?

Hi Yowser, I agree. I think I will have to look for a more experienced test station.

 

Below are the results of the standard idle test,

 

CO, (% vol') Target 0.500 Max, Reading, 2.643.

 

As for the leak, all I could see myself was that it was high up near the floor. I asked him where he thought it was coming from but all he could say was that he is only bound to notify me of the leak itself, not the source.

 

I like the sound of buying a pair of second hand arms, I will post in the items wanted and see what happens.

 

Thanks Again.

Edited April 26, 201114 yr by redwine300
missin info'

I had a similar problem a couple of years back, when the mot tester tested my car as a 350z. After i got some info together, i went back to him with it and it appeared he hadnt been a tester that long, but try to talk his way out of it. Anyways it passed the next time and he has been sacked since and i take my car back to the same place now as they know it really well and last time passed with flying colours.

 

I see what your saying about taking it somewhere else for a more experienced tester, but by going back to the same place armed with the knowledge is more fulfilling, plus he wont want reporting for his incompetence lol

Red pm your details and I'll contact you in a bit mate, gotta head out to my breaker for a bit

Hi Groover, I think you are right, When I get her ready for a retest, (if ever) I will go back to the same place, With the help from you guy's, I will be able to be better informed next time.

Managed to have a poke around and take some photo's, one of which shows the bushing that failed. I must admit, it does rock a bit.

Marked in yellow chalk.

Thats an easy fix. Its just the bush in the hub. get a nice pair of poly bushes fitted :biggrin:

Hi Groover, I think you are right, When I get her ready for a retest, (if ever) I will go back to the same place, With the help from you guy's, I will be able to be better informed next time.

Managed to have a poke around and take some photo's, one of which shows the bushing that failed. I must admit, it does rock a bit.

Marked in yellow chalk.

 

is that both sides failed, or just the passenger side?

That pic is the drivers :tt2:

Both sides I'm afraid.

That pic is the drivers :tt2:

 

:rofl::rofl: :wink:

 

Jeff TT

Well after a long deliberation, I have decided to tackle the removal of the sub frame myself.:censored:

At the moment, I am in the process of putting the front wheels on ramps and jacking the rear up and placing axle stands either side.(in the garage!)

If there are any pointers from people who have experience or ideas, please throw them in. I need all the help I can get.

Just for starters,does anyone know if I will have to remove the fuel tank for example?

All help wecome.

Well after a long deliberation, I have decided to tackle the removal of the sub frame myself.:censored:

At the moment, I am in the process of putting the front wheels on ramps and jacking the rear up and placing axle stands either side.(in the garage!)

If there are any pointers from people who have experience or ideas, please throw them in. I need all the help I can get.

Just for starters,does anyone know if I will have to remove the fuel tank for example?

All help wecome.

 

No need to remove the sub frame, just remove the diff unit so much less work and will give you all the access you need.

 

Jeff TT