Well I found the fault of my brakes not working loss of vacuum as the clutch master cylinder is leaking is it repairable or do I need a new one?

When you say it's leaking do you mean brake fluid is coming out or are you referring to a vacuum leak?

 

If it's fluid then it is coming from the master cylinder seals, you may be able to get a seal kit from MJP and refurb it.

 

If it's a vacuum leak then its the brake booster that's the problem. These aren't repairable and it will have to be replaced.

 

HTH

When you say it's leaking do you mean brake fluid is coming out or are you referring to a vacuum leak?

 

If it's fluid then it is coming from the master cylinder seals, you may be able to get a seal kit from MJP and refurb it.

 

If it's a vacuum leak then its the brake booster that's the problem. These aren't repairable and it will have to be replaced.

 

HTH

 

sorry yep its a vacum leak from the booster, so im on the lookout for a booster if anyone has one :santa:

Well I found the fault of my brakes not working loss of vacuum as the clutch master cylinder is leaking is it repairable or do I need a new one?

 

Not repairable - buy a Porsche....

i think you'll have a job finding one mate, i did! they usually get sold with gearbox etc for manual conversions. Try zedworld though, hopefully they might have one for you. If not Z1 sell brand new ones (not cheap though) and iirc they sell used ones too.

I only changed mine at the weekend, after having my booster sat in my shed for 2 years! I won't lie to ya, its a bit of a pain to do. I think most people take the seat out but i left mine in. After much fiddling and swearing i managed it in about 3-4 hours with a few breaks.

 

In the mean time if you haven't already, just pull the hose off and bung it up with a bolt or something and start doing some leg exercises :D

i think you'll have a job finding one mate, i did! they usually get sold with gearbox etc for manual conversions. Try zedworld though, hopefully they might have one for you. If not Z1 sell brand new ones (not cheap though) and iirc they sell used ones too.

I only changed mine at the weekend, after having my booster sat in my shed for 2 years! I won't lie to ya, its a bit of a pain to do. I think most people take the seat out but i left mine in. After much fiddling and swearing i managed it in about 3-4 hours with a few breaks.

 

In the mean time if you haven't already, just pull the hose off and bung it up with a bolt or something and start doing some leg exercises :D

 

Tell me about it i remember fitting it for my manual conversion :tongue_smilie:

i have now blocked it up and started doing the leg excersises lol clutch control is a bit of a bugger now when your uphill in an a queue :no:

Not repairable - buy a Porsche....

 

Shhhhh lol its a secret :biggrin: i have been looking at cabriolets 3.6 mainly although some nice 3.4 out there but im afraid of the reliability issues with them what do you think matey

Shhhhh lol its a secret :biggrin: i have been looking at cabriolets 3.6 mainly although some nice 3.4 out there but im afraid of the reliability issues with them what do you think matey

 

Hehe, just popped on here and saw this post up the top :)

 

It's been said the 3.6 is more reliable, aparantly not the same bore liner issues (yet to be proven), although research has shown that the 3.6 gets thermally 'shafted' compared to the 3.4 due to the cooling set up and the 3.4 runs cooler on all cylinders. IMS seals on the 3.4 fail prematurely - it's a sealed bearing with it's own grease, once the seal breaks oil can wash away the lubricant. If the motor is running on good quality synthetic or a thin enough oil then it can become 'self lubricating' and the oil does the job instead and flows in and out. Eventually the bearings can wear down though on some motors. Mines done 112k now and is still on the original IMS. Retro-fit bearings and seal kits are availabe for about £500 fitted.

 

Either way there are pro's and cons. I've heard of as many failures of 3.6's as 3.4's, and as many mid-mileage (60k ish) to high mileage instances. The 3.4 is essentially the same as the boxster S 3.2 motor, but bored out. It makes for some of the block and liners to be a bit thin by some peoples standards (although I am sure Porsche knew what they were doing right?).

 

I would expect tbh the life of a motor in either 3.4 or 3.6 guise to be similar to that of a Z. Ones with a hard life and that wern't assembled so great may only live to 80k, while others can and have lived to over 150k.

 

It is a gamble, and they are expensive motors, but then there is never any guarantee with any motor is there? You just have to do your best to test one out, check out the history and the motor and take a punt.

 

There are specialists such as autofarm and hartech offering rebuilds at a reasonable price (read 5kish) so although anoying it's not the end of the world.

 

I would consider a 996 as somewhat of an investment, if you buy a good example and keep it mint, I don't think it should devalue any more. Shop around and get a bargain, and if the worst ever did come to the worst you could have the motor rebuilt and add that a premium onto the selling price and get most of your cash back if needed (IE, you buy a 70-80k c2 car for say 15k, with a fully rebuilt motor it should easily be worth 18-19k).