right i had a problem yesterday when my zed was started from cold over night where it would not run boost or drive at all really. anyway i found a boost leek on the boost gauge which i sorted and the zed seemed to be going fine and was also fine when left for 6 hours or so which like a fool i thought i fixed my zed, however i started my zed this morning and i had same problem as day before! so back to square one! anybody know what controls the cold start idle? or what could be the problem. its a tt z32 with i belive a serious 2 ptu upgrade thanks dave

Your details don't say which part of the Country your in, this info helps with us suggesting others in your area you may get help from or perhaps garage wise.

So where yer live lol

smithy

i am in treherbert which is about an hour from cardiff if that helps

Almost certainly a sensor issue, getting it hooked up to a copy of conzult would probably help identify the issue (s )

 

If it won't run properly, could be worth checking the temperature sensors at the front of the engine on the water pipes.

 

Throttle position sensor perhaps?

 

Often boost leaks and vacuum leaks can cause poor running I know you have found one boost leak, but there is so many vacuum hoses and all that on these cars that finding them all can be difficult!

 

There is an Idle control valve which can get sticky i believe and would cause poor running at tickover, but I;d be suprised if it does when driving.

 

Some more information would probably help too, or a video/sound clip of the problem.

 

Is the car warm or cold when its doing this?

Does the problem stop when its warm?

Any smoke? If so colour/smell/quantity?

Auto or Manual?

Any modifications (chip, dump valves, boost controllers etc)

I'm assuming its LWB?

Edited April 1, 201114 yr by Quavey

Quayey has covered pertty much all of it mate.

Have you done an ECU diagnostic check your self?

 

Nearest garage to you (i think) who works on Zeds is still a fair drive and that's member Silverbullet on here, just in case you end up down that route.

 

But more info and check as lsited above first.

Smithy

right oh here goes it is a twin turbo manual 1992 only when its cold ie over night no smoke clears when. but when its warm the idle is really low no modificarltions other than back box's! im going towards oil being to thick and as it warms up it becomes thinner and sorts its self out so to speak! my oil pressure gauge is reading 100 when cold and 60 when driving and 30 on idle which seems high to me??? would wrong oil cause my problems? thanks guys much appriacte your help

An overfilled crank case would make it very sluggish. The 100 psi on startup is pretty high , what weight of oil are you running and how much are you filling it with?

 

Maybe this guide will help you to find the sensors that were mentioned earlier. The coolent sensor will make it run like crap on startup if it is bad. Check for corrosion.

 

http://www.z32photoguide.com/

i had 15 40 in it as my auto data cd recomended it! any way i have just done an oil change on it, yes oil change at 10 pm!!!! and it seems a lot better, much smoother i will have to see if its ok from cold in morning if not i will strip and clean the sensors! is it just a case of taking them out and use bit of brake/carb cleaner on them with wire or maybe tooth bus be better?

Yes , clean the connections and then use some dielectric grease to seal them up. How much oil did you put in the Z when you changed it? European models I believe take

 

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ma&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=10&design=default&total=33

Sorry , hit wrong button on laptop :sneaky2: Make sure you put in the correct amount and clean the connections real good.

it took just under 4 with filter change which bought it a little under full on dip stick with cold oil

problem solved started this morning no problems so wrong oil seems to be the issue not the idiot owner that put it in honest! thanks for help guys much appricated

Pretty sure the wrong oil wouldn't cause this kind of problem. And I would have thought by the time overfilled oil could cause running problem you'd have already blown seals and have ridiculous amounts of smoke from the exhaust. Sounds more like as said - coolant temperature sensor if for the fact that it doesn't drive properly if you're talking about a misfire and overfueling or if you're just talking about not having full boost - boost is resticted until you reach operating temp. HTH

^^^^ The "rest of the story" on the oil change would be good to know. I agree , an oil change alone wont fix the problems that were described.

Might be worth treading carefully with the dielectric grease, Some brands are super conductive, if spread too liberally it could cause voltage to track across the terminals giving all sorts of problems.:eek: Something I have had happen to me and just thought it would be good to pass on.:flowers:

^^^^Weird , automotive dielectric grease is non-conductive. It is a silicone based lubricant. Permatex # 81150 is what I use.

I stand corrected there Andy93z,:innocent: Must have been a different grease that gave me my problems.:oops: I threw it out so i can not say what it was. apologies!! :sad:

I have fitted my connectors dry through fear of the same problem, but having your information about the dielectric grease i will re-consider. can i get hold of it easy enough?

I stand corrected there Andy93z,:innocent: Must have been a different grease that gave me my problems.:oops: I threw it out so i can not say what it was. apologies!! :sad:

I have fitted my connectors dry through fear of the same problem, but having your information about the dielectric grease i will re-consider. can i get hold of it easy enough?

 

Auto Part store or electrical supply stores carry the stuff. It isnt expensive at all and will save you a lot of headaches when it comes to the electrical gremlins. Clean the connections and put a shot in the coupling....keeps moisture out.

ok sensor it must be as its been fine for 2 days but now starting to piss about again! why would changing the oil stop the problem for a couple of days? would that suggest a certian sensor to look at first