I've fitted the 330mm discs and the 8 pot calipers :) look the bees knees :)

 

I have some issues tho :(

 

1. There is loads of travel when you apply the brake, but if you release and and apply again it's a lot firmer, still not as firm as I'd like the pedal to be but definatly better. (This is when the car is travelling)

 

2. When you brake at any speed above 60mph I get major steering wheel shake :( at first I thought a wheel was coming off, but they were fine when checked.

 

All the bleeding was done on the front and rear but we didn't bleed the the whole system.

 

I'm wondering if It could be rust on the hub that's not allowing the disc to sit flush? Any other ideas? Or has somebody with these brakes fitted experienced the same or similar problems?

 

Thanks

 

Matt

deffinately check that discs are running true, although i would have thought, if they were out, you would have noticed visually.

 

sounds to me like the calipers need bleeding again.

deffinately check that discs are running true, although i would have thought, if they were out, you would have noticed visually.

 

sounds to me like the calipers need bleeding again.

 

Cheers buddy. Can you give me a correct procedure for bleeding the Calipers. There is 2 nipples on the K Sport calipers, am I meant to be bleeding from both?

 

Matt

All seating faces must be clean and smooth. Does the disc rotate freely with the wheel off?

 

Alz.

All seating faces must be clean and smooth. Does the disc rotate freely with the wheel off?

 

Alz.

 

Yep, turned fine.

Do you think bleeding the ABS will make a difference? Maybe get rid of the spongey pedal.

Definitely bleed ABS system matey.

 

Alz.

Definitely bleed ABS system matey.

 

Alz.

 

 

I'm going to do it asap. Alz, do you think I've got to check the disc runout? Could this be why i'm getting wobble from 60mph +?

when changing calipers, bleeding the ABS is'nt nessesary but won't hurt.

 

you must bleed both sides of the caliper starting with the outer nipple first then the inner nipple.

I'm going to do it asap. Alz, do you think I've got to check the disc runout? Could this be why i'm getting wobble from 60mph +?

 

When you say "disc runout" what do you mean?

 

Alz.

When you say "disc runout" what do you mean?

 

Alz.

 

I've spoken to some people who have fitted big rotors and apparantly in some cases they don't just fit straight on.

 

Measuring the run out is accomplished using a dial indicator on a fixed rigid base, with the tip perpendicular to the brake disc's face. It is typically measured about 1/2" (12 mm) from the outside diameter of the disc. The disc is spun. The difference between minimum and maximum value on the dial is called lateral runout. Typical hub/disc assembly runout specifications for passenger vehicles are around 0.0020" or 50 micrometers. Runout can be caused either by deformation of the disc itself or by runout in the underlying wheel hub face or by contamination between the disc surface and the underlying hub mounting surface. Determining the root cause of the indicator displacement (lateral runout) requires disassembly of the disc from the hub. Disc face runout due to hub face runout or contamination will typically have a period of 1 minimum and 1 maximum per revolution of the brake disc.

 

So if a disc is showing run out it's a matter of taking the disc off the hub and turning it 45degrees (moving to the next stud) and checking again, this can be done up to 5 times until there is no run out because we have 5 studs :), according that the hub etc is free of any surface rust.

 

It's also very common to get steering wobble with bad run out at around 60mph, which is what I have.

 

HTH lol! http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/brake/BrakeDisk.pdf

 

Now I need to find a brake disc run out tool.

Have a look at this to.

 

http://www.sobjoy.com/disc-brake-run-out.html

This is how i did it.

 

Uncover the ABS pump in the boot on the drivers side wheel arch cover.

Jack car up on all 4 corners

Take wheels off

Take some air bubble tubing (for a fish tank) and place it over the bleed nipple on all 4 calipers, and both bleed nipples on the ABS unit.

 

Having someone pump the brakes while you top up the brake fluid helps, use a empty container and feed the excess fluid from the air bubble tubing, with the air bubble tubing, you will clearly see the air, once the tube is pumping air free fluid, do the nipple up.

 

I bleed them in this order.

 

Bleed the ABS

Bleed the rear brakes

Bleed the front brakes

Bleed the ABS again

 

Check, if all is ok, the peddle should stiffen up every time. if there is still air in the system, it will feel soft and spongy. ive heard rumors that you should do it, passenger side, drivers side fronts, the rear drivers, rear passenger side, then the ABS unit. but when i did that i found that i still had plenty of air in the system.

I would check that first, yes. You can make an indicator if you have a solid flat surface and an engineering height gauge/marking out tool. You could even make a set up with the disc still on the hub, maybe some sort off "G" clamp holding a scriber/pointer close to the disc surface then rotate. A bit crude, but may give you some indication.

 

Alz

This is how i did it.

 

Uncover the ABS pump in the boot on the drivers side wheel arch cover.

Jack car up on all 4 corners

Take wheels off

Take some air bubble tubing (for a fish tank) and place it over the bleed nipple on all 4 calipers, and both bleed nipples on the ABS unit.

 

Having someone pump the brakes while you top up the brake fluid helps, use a empty container and feed the excess fluid from the air bubble tubing, with the air bubble tubing, you will clearly see the air, once the tube is pumping air free fluid, do the nipple up.

 

I bleed them in this order.

 

Bleed the ABS

Bleed the rear brakes

Bleed the front brakes

Bleed the ABS again

 

Check, if all is ok, the peddle should stiffen up every time. if there is still air in the system, it will feel soft and spongy. ive heard rumors that you should do it, passenger side, drivers side fronts, the rear drivers, rear passenger side, then the ABS unit. but when i did that i found that i still had plenty of air in the system.

 

Have just found this thread in the search section. Cheers V.S!

 

I would check that first, yes. You can make an indicator if you have a solid flat surface and an engineering height gauge/marking out tool. You could even make a set up with the disc still on the hub, maybe some sort off "G" clamp holding a scriber/pointer close to the disc surface then rotate. A bit crude, but may give you some indication.

 

Alz

 

Sounds like a plan. I'll get on the case asap and let you know the outcome.

 

Thanks again guys.

long travel on first press = air in the system

They should just bolt on no problems.

 

I have them all round as do a few other without any issues. I would double make sure you bleed them again. When i did mine i did the whole system.

 

Also when i bled the calipers i did both sides of the caliper together

It will be run-out, too much pushes the pistons too far in hence the first 'pump'.Explains the wobble too!

I'm going to do it asap. Alz, do you think I've got to check the disc runout? Could this be why i'm getting wobble from 60mph +?

 

That must of been a very clued up person you phoned at 13:15 today:whistling: how'd it go?

That must of been a very clued up person you phoned at 13:15 today:whistling: how'd it go?

 

 

LOl! After a bit more research and a lenghty chat with Mr Probert he's going to sort it this week :) He's got the run out kit as well :)

All sorted and the zed is back!!! :)

Old thread but this explains a lot, we didn't bleed the ABS hence soft pedal. Does anybody have pics of where the ABS bleed nipples are on a SWB TT? The unit is different to that of the LWB (not that I know where they are on a LWB anyway)

some units had the nipples others didnt, not sure if this is the same for the LWB, bud couldnt be that hard to find as they look just like the nipples you get on cats, sorry i mean callipers, on the LWB if the unit has them they are directly ontop, so would imagine if you do have them, thats where they would be.

some units had the nipples others didnt, not sure if this is the same for the LWB, bud couldnt be that hard to find as they look just like the nipples you get on cats, sorry i mean callipers, on the LWB if the unit has them they are directly ontop, so would imagine if you do have them, thats where they would be.

 

perv.... :laugh:

some units had the nipples others didnt, not sure if this is the same for the LWB, bud couldnt be that hard to find as they look just like the nipples you get on cats, sorry i mean callipers, on the LWB if the unit has them they are directly ontop, so would imagine if you do have them, thats where they would be.

 

Focker?!?