Hicas arm/ rod replacements a common issue that will at some time effect all twin turbo`s with the hicas rear steering fitted.

 

Once the wear has been correctly identified as the arms rather then the outer bush changing them is fairly straight forward but it helps to have the correct tools and parts at hand.

 

(17 mm spanner, side cutters 2 x30 mm spanner, 1 pair of grips, split pins, hicas arms 2 x cable ties ball splitter)

 

The outer rod end has a spilt pin that needs removing, then undo the 17 mm securing nut, a ball splitter helps with parting the rod end from the outer bush.

 

 

The gaiters are held in place by wire clips, cut this with a pair of side cutters taking care to not catch the rubber gaiter, once the clip is removed pull the gaiter clear of the ball joint.

 

 

 

Whether you are changing one or both arms you need to do undo both gaiters, then with two 30 mm spanners one on each of the inner ball joint nut flats undo them against each other. Only one will come undone, the other needs to be undone a slightly different way.

 

 

 

 

Now undo the stopper lock ring and adapter, this when removed gives access to a 17 mm flat on the steering rack ram so it can be held in place whilst the remaining arm can be undone.

 

 

One real important tip is when using the ram flat the old arm should be reinserted first as the ram is hollow and will deform if there is no arm fitted, this will wreck the ram and the new hicas arm will not fit in the thread and hence a new rack will be needed.

 

 

Now with a 30 mm spanner and a 17 mm spanner the other arm can be remove.

 

 

 

Refitting the arms is a reverse of the removal, but the rear steering will need tracking, if you go along to any two wheel alignment place they can do it by reverse fitting their 2 wheel kit, 0+ 1 toe in is a good setting for low tyre wear but firm track.

 

 

 

The effects of worn arms can range from slight unsettled feeling to dangerous, by far the most common failure and the most beneficial to replace, most drivers will be pleased by the change in how their their zed feels after worn arms are replaced, some MOT stations miss them not understanding the hicas system so just because your zed has an MOT does not mean your hicas arms are good.

 

Worth checking, with the wheels off the floor and hand brake off check by placing your hands at the quarter to three position and pulling and pushing to feel for wear, its useful if a second person can hold the outer bush and the inner bush to detect the wear, sometimes it can be both but most of the time its the arm/ rod.

 

Jeff TT

so so much easier with the exhaust off . i did mine with the zorst still on . what a PITA

We should have a section in the FAQ area for all your nuggets of info Jeff. Another quality right up mate :bow:

so so much easier with the exhaust off . i did mine with the zorst still on . what a PITA

 

Yes we normally change them with the exhaust on but in this case a new exhaust was been fitted so took the opportunity to change the hicas arms before the new one was fitted....much easier.

 

 

We should have a section in the FAQ area for all your nuggets of info Jeff. Another quality right up mate :bow:

 

Thats not a bad idea, would keep them all together for all to see in one place rather than searching, and always happy to add more.

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff, is it the same for an electrically operated Hicas.

 

cheers Paul

LOL well, thanks for that jeff, im no longer confused in anyway shape or form, so it wasn't my plight yesterday that prompted this write up? either way, thank you very much.

 

Would also like to point out to everyone, that the reason the MOT guy thought it was a wheel bearing on my zed, was due to how he checked,

 

Grabbing the tire in a quarter to 3 position, and wiggling it right to left, yielded movement.

 

I questioned this as with a wheel bearing, i was sure you would be looking at a 360 degree wobble, and not one that just occurred from right to left, (left to right it was solid)

Hi Jeff, is it the same for an electrically operated Hicas.

 

cheers Paul

 

Slightly different, in fact easier, but firstly the actual arms are different size so make sure you get the correct ones or they will not fit.

 

Undoing the arm ball joints is easier as you do not have to hold the other end, so its less hassle as if changing just one arm you only have to strip one side down, no need for two spanners.

 

 

 

Jeff

so it wasn't my plight yesterday that prompted this write up?

 

It was, by pure chance was doing the same job today so thought hey take some pics and write it up.

 

Not uncommon for MOT tester to get it wrong on the bearing thing, especially if they have not sussed the rear steering.

 

Wheel bearings are usually checked by rocking the wheel top and bottom, but a word of caution, the outer hub bush can also give movement in the top and bottom test!!

 

Jeff

Jeff your a genius mate :D

 

Rocking top to bottom it was solid as well, i also checked both rear wheels, and its only on the drivers side, suppose i best invest in some 30mm spanners now :(

Slightly different, in fact easier, but firstly the actual arms are different size so make sure you get the correct ones or they will not fit.

 

Undoing the arm ball joints is easier as you do not have to hold the other end, so its less hassle as if changing just one arm you only have to strip one side down, no need for two spanners.

 

 

 

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff