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Question for Andy P & anyone else interested in ptu failure theory

Hi ya Andy, had a thought about ptu failures after getting involved with Ken`s probs after the timing belt change.

 

I have watched with interest the increase number of failures of these units and have a couple of idea`s you may have a view on.

 

Firstly is seems to be acknowledged that the series 1 units suffer the overheat, solder failure internally that leads to intermittent or complete failure.My thoughts on the reliability of the unit is mixed as some of them are failing after 80k, 90k or 100k+ miles or after 10 or more years service,I do not think this constitutes a failure in design but points to an external cause in use.

 

The under bonnet heat and location I feel may be a contributor but my electrical background is pulling me away from that. I see evidence of heat related damage in my line of work in many mains powered systems that fry the insulation off cables, distort 1/2" thick busbars and fracture porcelain insulators. The key cause almost all times is poor electrical connections that have led to increased current draw that eventually results in overheating and further failure of the poor conection resulting in a system failure through disconnection of the poor connection or damage to other components.

 

Having looked only externally at the ptu units not internally like yourself I see many with corroded prongs or loose connectors,my thoughts are as above the possible rise in current caused by the poor connections is the reason for the internal failure due to heat build up. It would from my experience seem likely that a poor connection at the connector would initially cause misfire or non starting that may alert the owner to a problem and a cure (tighten connection or make good)However a slow build up of corrosion could over a period of time cause excess current draw on maybe one or two output`s only, slowly causing the internal soldering to fail? But also I thing there is a more likely chance that a poor connection to more than a couple of the outputs would lead to a rapid internal heat up due to overcurrent and this could happen in a matter of minutes and result in a fried ptu,this would explain how sudden unexpected failure can occur.In Ken`s case after the garage refitting the ptu I believe a poor connection was made as the spring clip was missing! then almost immediatly the damage was done.

When substituting my ptu for his the car started and ran perfectly,after reversing them it would not even start so the whole unit was damaged, again pointing to a single catastrophic failure in one go.

 

I suppose my point is this, if my theory is correct the corrosion of the terminals and security of the connectors is the main if not all causes of ptu failure with the damaged internal soldering the result not the cause, and checking this must then be added to the service schedule of all our car`s as a damage preventative measure? what do you think?

 

Jeff TT

Featured Replies

It's an interesting theory. My view is that the internals of the PTU are VERY fragile and I reckon the most significant cause of damage is vibration. I think Nissan have acknowledged this by filling them with rubbery goo that is obviously supposed to damp the vibrations of the wires inside. All three I have taken aparts have physical disconnections inside (the spot weldings fall off)and all three have been on the main or central connection, which incidentally has two wires in parallel, so it is either expected to take more current (don't understand why that might be) or they recognise that one may fail (unlikely).

 

However, all the ones I have taken apart have also had dirty green external connectors (but what doesn't in a Zed!). I had to clean those with a sandblaster because faffing around with contact cleaner or sandpaper is not as effective.

 

Jeff,

Very interesting theory.Just like to say thanks to Jeff for comeing over and putting my mind to rest. smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

Thanks Andy for helping me out i'll buy you both a drink when i see you at the next meet(looking in the post box anxiously)

smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif!!!!!.

 

Cheers Ken.

I agree with you all,

 

I have suspected for some time that high temperature hesitation can be related to PTU failure. I saw a good article about it on one of the Ozzie Z sites, where they showed a dismantled failing PTU and the connectors inside had failed or corroded as a result of the heat or mistreatment.

 

Your PTU is fragile and should be treated with respect and care. Alternatively Courtesy Nissan do them for a couple of 100 dollars. What a bargain !

 

Good luck guys,

 

Amer.

After a long time of sudden stopping myself,

& after finding out it was the ptu unit, i investigated further.

And as said above connections were green-unit was getting to melting point when it cut out-so i did this & this was the outcome. And it hasn't done it since these mods. = 8 months ago.

revampt_ptu.jpg

The ptu has been highly polished to reflect as much heat as poss- its been rewired to fit the n/s wing to get away from hot pipes & stuff & get as much air as poss'. All connections have been 'clean coppered', the connectors to the ptu have been re-set. And touch wood in the 8 months since i did the work it has not let me down.

Sounds complex but its not.

 

harve

I think i am possibly having problems with my PTU at the moment and as a quick fix I'm going to open it up and look for bad joints then mount it back where it is but on some kind of heat insulator (eg a block of wood or something) and stick a PC CPU cooling fan on the front.

The wood should stop a fair bit of heat from the back and the fan will give a little extra cooling at the front.

Should be quick to do without re-wiring and may just help.

 

AndyP,

 

How easy are they to dismantle?

Are they screwed together or sealed unit?

 

They are a right pig to take apart. Sealed unit, you have to cut through the back panel and then the inside is filled with slimey goo. Also, the connectors inside are very fragile and use aluminium solder to connect them, so you need special solder, a special soldering iron, lots of patience and to throw a double six before you start !

(Then you have to put it back together such that it stays that way and is waterprrof etc) ...

If you know it's Donald Ducked then you could send it to me and I'll have a go.

Not sure just yet as I won't get chance to do much until the weekend. It could just be the connectors are dirty or something else entirely. I'm a wiz with a soldering iron but I presume it must be special high temperature stuff from what you've said.

Might just take you up on the offer.

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