Im at the point of trying to remove the 2 pipes from the engine bay that lead through the bulkhead into the back of the heater matrix, I seem to have very little to no room to be able to access these 2 pipes, has anyone had to remove anything from the engine bay to be able to get to these pipes properly. even if i manage to remove them with a long screwdriver, there is no way i can get at them to put them back on when im re-installing the heater matrix. The dash is fully removed, it is a manual and still has the clutch in place.

 

leigh

Im at the point of trying to remove the 2 pipes from the engine bay that lead through the bulkhead into the back of the heater matrix, I seem to have very little to no room to be able to access these 2 pipes, has anyone had to remove anything from the engine bay to be able to get to these pipes properly. even if i manage to remove them with a long screwdriver, there is no way i can get at them to put them back on when im re-installing the heater matrix. The dash is fully removed, it is a manual and still has the clutch in place.

 

leigh

 

best thing to do, is cut the pipes leading to the heater matrix close to it. then use a 2 x small bits of rubber hose and 4 x jubilee clips to reconnect them saves having to fiddle about at the rear of the engine and as you have the dash out should be a lot easier too.

 

there was a picture floating around but cant seem to find it now :(

sounds a good idea, do you mean the copper pipes that run from the matrix? behind the small black box on the left side of the clutch pedal?

Link here http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.341

 

this is with the dash board in situ though, might still help?

I did this a few weeks ago. I cut the two copper pipes that join the matrix near the clutch pedal. Made things a lot easier. So ar so good, fingers crossed no more leaks

Yep did this last week, i cut the pipes using a bosch all in one machine, which uses vibration/sonic waves for cutting. Nice clean cut using the half moon wheel.

I then bought 1metre of hose from halfords cost £2 its 15.8mm internal diam. So its tight but can still be slid over the pipes. I cut off 2x 2" pieces and make sure you use good jubilee clips and not the halfords cheapies in a selection box. 2 clips per pipe.

For added peace of mind i smeared some instant gasket over the copper pipe, but no too much, you dont want it getting into the inner copper pipe.

 

Cutting the pipes made the job quicker, without having to undo the bolt from inside the engine bay.

The other benefit of cutting the pipes: you can leave the cable on for the valve, you only need take the spring off. Getting the spring on is easier by undoing the retaining nut at the control side, lift out the hook part of the spring, place the spring end through the eye of the top of the valve mechanism first, then using ling nosed pliers, hook the other end of the spring back over the bolt in the retainer.

pop down machine mart and buy yourself some long handled pliers the like foot long size very very usefull for working round that area