Subwoofer help Req.

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November 3, 201015 yr

About a week ago i could happily wire a headunit and your standard 6x9 and door card speakers as you do, but now i wanted a sub and i wanted to know everything about them from wiring to peak performances and so on.

I want a system which is above beginner and one where when cranked up i hit my comfortable sound threashold before it does.

At first i was looking at this JVC sub 700 watts RMS, 2000 watts PEAK.

http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/product.php?pr=220

and i was going to use this amp to power it as everywhere ive looked says try and better the RMS wattage of your sub with your amp by up to 125%, and that peak isnt a neccesity.

http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/product.php?pr=174

Now as the sub is dual coil and so on i could get it to run at an Impedance of 2ohms if i ran the 2 coils in parallel

Now id like somone with a bit of knowledge to tell me if this system would be a few steps up from begginner and if it would be worth purchasing, also taking into account i listen to Drum and Bass + Dubstep mainly.

Or would it be wise to go down the route of 2 less powerful subwoofers instead of one?

Any help and advice is appreciated.

Hollings.

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Inherited 1996 300z- questions about timing belt service

so my wife and I inherited a 1996 300 Z. It’s naturally aspirated five speed, looks black, but it’s like a dark purple, beautiful car. Her father purchased it in 1998 with like 30,000 miles. For the most part, the car has been stored in a garage in Oregon and hardly driven. It has been in Phoenix now for the past five or six years. The car is in awesome condition and runs great. My question is what all is worth replacing while they’re in there doing the timing belt? I know there’s some pulleys and other accessory belts. I know many of them might be good, but if they’re not that expensive for quality parts, do I just go for it all? I should mention that the timing belt has never been done, at least not since 98 and I doubt it was done in the first 30,000 Miles, so it’s the original belt, original everything. Also, I need to get the spark plugs done. All this being said what should be a price range that I’d pay shop to do this work. There are a couple specialty shops that work on Nissan, specifically Z cars in the Phoenix area. Anyways, I appreciate any insight, thoughts, or comments. Thanks in advance!

By theotter4200 · 11 hours ago11 hr
1996 300zx fuel issues

Thanks for the reply jaikai. I did a lot of research before I joined this club and saw someone by passing pump on there car and it was there fuel pump ecu that went bad but my car starts and runs the other persons didn’t so I’m like I don’t think the was the problem. My pump didn’t look that old and was still working just making a lot of noises while running the noises would change every few seconds. Any way I cleaned as much of the green corrosion as I could and added a little more solder on all four wires then cleaned off all the flux from soldering. Reinstalled pump and tested and my fuel issue is gone now. The corrosion was causing car to not get enough gas at times.

By Lu300zxlu · 14 hours ago14 hr
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

PARTS ACQUIRED FOR THE MONTH OF JUNE 2025
Another month, another new parts acquisition for the project—and this one was a surprisingly great find from Yahoo Auctions in Japan. Not only was it inexpensive, but it also arrived in excellent, almost like-new condition. That’s a huge improvement compared to a similar unit I purchased two months ago, which was heavily covered in rust.
Because of its condition, this part won’t require the extensive restoration work that the previous one would have needed. That saves a significant amount of time and allows me to fast-track its installation of this new part into the Z sooner rather than later.

It has been a 6 week wait for this package to arrive to me from Japan. I choose to use sea freight for this purchase to save on shipping costs and so it took a while for the package to arrive to me in Australia.
Another Later Model Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Pump/Module
As you all know 2 months ago, I decided to buy and received my first series 2 or later model ABS pump/module from Japan which was relatively cheap but had the massive con of also being in a very rusty poor condition and would require an extensive restoration process on the entire assembly before I could install the unit into the car.
https://i.postimg.cc/0NYmk3Z8/First_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_Purchased_In_April_2025.jpg
(Above) Although I was excited to purchase this later-model ABS pump, it turned out to be in very poor condition. It will require a significant amount of work—disassembly, rust removal, and reassembly—before it can be made fully functional and installed in the boot of the Z.
But while randomly searching yahoo auctions this month though, I managed to find a listing for a much better conditioned later model ABS pump that believe it or not was cheaper to buy then the first abs pump and only had a small amount of surface rust present on the unit.
https://i.postimg.cc/h46909Xb/Yahoo-Auctions-ABS-Pump-Listing.png
(Above) A Deal to hard to pass at when I first saw it.
Because of its rust-free condition and lower price, I decided to purchase the new unit and have it shipped over. I’ll now be changing plans to use this ABS pump instead of the one I bought two months ago.
Not all is lost, though—the original pump came with a complete set of factory brake hardlines, which I’ll transfer over to the new unit. This will allow me to complete the installation just as it would have been from the factory.
https://i.postimg.cc/NFyxbD86/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/7hCNX91M/2_New_later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg
Upon first inspection of the new ABS pump the condition of the components was very good, there was minimal surface rust present on the unit which I may or may not try to remove before installing the pump into the boot of my Z.
When comparing the new ABS pump with the first one the difference in condition is very noticeable. The first pump I plan to keep as a spare and if necessary do a full restoration on at some point just in case I ever need to change the pump out due to a fault or failure.
https://i.postimg.cc/zvLkp7wk/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/6q7hzcVH/3_Comparison_of_the_first_ABS_pump_vs_new_ABS_pump_2.jpg
The difference in condition is night and day and in my mind a decent purchase sourcing this new ABS pump.
Even with the new ABS pump in hand, I will have to hold off installing it into the Z until I have completed my research into if retrofitting the later model ABS pump is even possible into an early model 300ZX which at this point in time I don't have any concrete information proving my theory on it being possible is correct.
As far as I can tell looking through the AUS, US and UKDM Z32 forums, no one has ever tried to do this kind of conversion before ever and there are no personal hands on experiences i can read about that can verify if it is or isn't possible, so I will just have to confirm the possibility myself on my own Z at some point in the future.

By DJ_Party_Favor · 16 hours ago16 hr
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

MOUNTING BRACKET (REAR BRAKE CALIPER) – SANDBLASTING PROCESS
With all of the brake caliper hydraulic pistons now restored to a usable condition, I turned my attention to the caliper bodies themselves. The next step in the restoration process is to strip the factory coating and repaint the calipers in a high-temperature gloss black finish.
From my research, achieving a durable and high-quality paint finish starts with proper surface preparation. Ideally, paint should be applied directly to bare metal wherever possible. When done correctly, the process involves applying an etch primer to the bare surface, followed by the colour coat, and finally a clear coat for added durability and protection.
Because I plan to use an etch primer—which is specifically designed for bare metal as I've mentioned before—I need to remove as much of the original factory coating from the OEM calipers as much as possible.
Up to this point, I’ve had good success using traditional grinding and metal resurfacing techniques to strip coatings from various parts. My initial plan was to use the same method on all four brake calipers. During testing, the bench grinder removed the factory coating effectively, but I noticed it was also altering the surface of the aluminium. I suspect this is due to heat buildup caused by friction from the wire wheel.

(Above) The stripped metal surface appears to show heavy pitting, likely caused by heat buildup during grinding.
Another issue was accessibility—getting the grinder into tight areas proved difficult. Progress was slow, with even a small section taking around 30 minutes to complete.
At this stage, I decided the bench grinder was no longer the best tool for the job. While it could achieve the desired result, it required too much time and effort. It also produced a lot of debris, unpleasant odours, and airborne particles that ended up on my clothes and skin.
For years, I’ve been researching alternative methods for stripping automotive parts more efficiently, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to upgrade my setup.
So I purchased a Unimac 90L benchtop sandblasting cabinet—the most affordable and compact option available to me. I’ve wanted one of these for quite some time, and after watching countless reviews and demonstration videos online, it became clear how effective sandblasting is for quickly stripping metal parts.
The main reasons I held off previously were the cost and limited storage space. However, after reorganising my workspace and weighing the long-term benefits, I decided it was a worthwhile investment.
This cabinet should significantly improve my workflow—not just for this project, but for future restorations as well. The ability to strip parts down to bare metal in minutes rather than hours is a huge advantage.
https://i.postimg.cc/7hXKQhjw/1_New_Sandblaster_setup.jpg
(Above) The cabinet is connected to a 2.0HP high-flow 60L air compressor and a 1000W dust extractor. I also installed a water trap and air regulator to control pressure and reduce moisture in the air lines.
https://i.postimg.cc/qqQ1ZqWM/1_Sandblaster_Work_Area.jpg
(Above) I also chose a coarse 30/60 grit garnet blasting media, which is affordable and easy to source locally.
I set the air regulator to the recommended 90 PSI (0.65 MPa).
https://i.postimg.cc/KjQ0sjCc/1_Setting_Max_air_pressure_on_regulator.jpg
(Above) Moisture control is critical in sandblasting, as water in the air lines can clog the system. The regulator with a built-in water trap helps minimise this risk.
Before moving on to the calipers, I decided to test the setup on a smaller component—a pair of rear caliper mounting brackets.
Here’s the condition of the brackets before blasting:
https://i.postimg.cc/mkVm6kKF/2_Brackets_Before_Blasting.jpg
(Above) While most of the factory paint coating had been removed, tight areas still retained some of the old paint—exactly where sandblasting should excel.
With everything set, I placed the brackets in the cabinet and began blasting. The results were exactly what I hoped for—fast and effortless. The remaining paint was removed in seconds, and both brackets were fully stripped within minutes.
https://i.postimg.cc/ZnjwDnXC/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wMFwbMnt/2_Bracket_After_Blasting_2.jpg
(Above) Both brackets are now completely stripped back to bare metal, with all of the factory coating removed.
This first test confirmed that investing in a sandblasting cabinet was the right decision. The time savings and improved results are immediately noticeable, and I’m looking forward to using this setup to restore all four brake calipers next.

By DJ_Party_Favor · 16 hours ago16 hr
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

Another small update for this month’s blog, but progress was made nonetheless. I picked up a new piece of equipment that will help me strip paint and rust from old car metal parts much more efficiently—and much faster.
In addition, I acquired another component for the braking system. This one is in significantly better condition than the part I purchased a couple of months ago, so it’s a solid upgrade.
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ADAMZX Instagram: instagram.com/adamzx_z32

By DJ_Party_Favor · 16 hours ago16 hr

Subwoofer help Req.

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