i have almost complted my manual conversion but cannot get the car to start - all lights are on and evrything electrical seems to works but nothing at the starter - i have fully charged the battery - i have checked the connections at my starter and they are tight (it was my original starter so i know that to be alright) - i found the thread on the starter relay bypass which i have done (put a wire in the connector with the black/yellow wires) - i have tried the gearstick in all positions - i have tried the neutral switch connected and not - i have a toad alarm/immobiliser - the rest of the alarm is working fine and i didn't knowingly disconnected anything - i am out of ideas - any help would be sooo great

 

dave

stupid question but did you change the ECU over to a manual one?

no mate, i changed as little as i could and just cant think what else i have disturbed - i just cant help thinking about the alaram or something to do with the autobox cut out

it might be the ECU thinking that the car is in something other than neutral or Park, so stopping you starting it.

how can i check - is there anything i should have done with the wiring that goes from the auto shifter - i dont get the noise of the fuel pimp either - its just quiet

It sounds like an immobiliser has kicked in if there its no fuel pump running. Other than that from memory I think on an auto zed you have to depress the brake pedal before starting have you done anything with the switch on the brake pedal?

It sounds like an immobiliser has kicked in if there its no fuel pump running. Other than that from memory I think on an auto zed you have to depress the brake pedal before starting have you done anything with the switch on the brake pedal?

 

my auto starts with just the key in the ignition once the immobiliser has been disabled. never had to put my foot on the brake to get it to turn over.

 

This might come in handy though

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=916979&forum=technical&dtSearch=28

 

i have to admit though, it might be immobiliser issue, i did have a good write up for the conversion saved as a fav, but cant find it now :(

Edited September 23, 201015 yr by vodkashots

thanks for all the replies - i have read so much about the wiring that just as i think i have found something i have missed a try it and its the same

What toad immobilizer have you got, do you have to use the transponder (not wise to give your model out, just say if you have a transponder or not lol)

what about a main fuse have you checked the ones in the engine bay and the ones in the drivers footwell

i am sure i have checked all fuses unless they have gone since - which one could be the culprit - when i turn the key to start i can here a relay click and thats it - sounds like it was coming from drivers footwell - i hace a toad c5 -

have you taken off the coloum surround and checked for a feed to the starter if there is a live to the starter there then your imobiliser could be the problem, most alarm imobilisers are wired in after the ignition switch hope you get it sorted asap mate

hello mate,

 

many thanks for the replies - i have the column surround off now and can see the wires from the immobiliser i think - i have the immobiliser module accessable - can this just be unplugged or not as simple as that - it just seems something silly and its driving me nuts

Hiya bud have you tried to bridge across what was the isolater feed instead of running it through the neutral switch just in case the switch is faulty , i was pi55ing about trying to get my reverse lights to work only to find the reverse switch wasn,t working :angry::angry:

how can i check - is there anything i should have done with the wiring that goes from the auto shifter - i dont get the noise of the fuel pimp either - its just quiet

 

Have you not bridged the grey connector? (2 wires)

Check out things like Quavey is saying as there are switches behind the pedals, to stop it starting, even on the manuals, they should not start if its in gear although some do.

i have tried bridging the grey connector (in the same loom as the starter) - i tried to see if there was any life in the starter by connecting a jump lead to it but it was lifeless - i have removed the starter now for further testing but so far i have tried a direct jump lead from good battery to starter nut and also with a neg jump to the casing and it still does nothing - could this be dead or am i testing it wrong (if it is dead i dont understand how - it was perfect when i removed it and to put it back without so much of a click - can it do this - am i just looking for an easy option - i dont hear the fuel pump kick in when the ignition is energised or does it all work in sequence

I see you are not far away from us in this area, maybe you would like to come to a meet sometime, we have devon and

have cornwall meets sometimes.

 

Sounds like starter is not working if you have given it a direct feed, any starter alternator shop will test that for you.

the ecu from the auto will be fine on the manual, mines been converted and runs fine off the auto ecu

many thanks guys for all the replies - it was a massive help - went under the car this morning and tested with multi meter and there was nothing - so checked the ignition wires and it was definately the immobiliser - gave the folks a ring who fitted it and they advised how to bypass it and started first time (thank god) - only smaller issue now is i have no indicators - hazards ok just no indicators

 

once again many thanks and once sorted will come and meet at the more local meets

 

dave

If your hazards are working but the indicators are not, check the plug into the back of the hazard switch, give it a wiggle or push it in harder, should solve the problem. The only other thing to try if not the hazard switch is to waggle the indicator stalk. My money is on the hazard switch plug lol

absolutely spot on - hazard switch was loosely mounted

 

many thanks