I was close to buying the spl track rods ends ($220 excluding postage and customs) to compensate for lowering, which bring the track arms back to centre, correct funky steering arm angles and bump steer under suspension compression. Pretty simple really.

 

Heres what i have done. Still going through a few tests, the tracking is way out now so a full alignment will be needed, still haveent had it tracked since i fitted the lower arms i just lined it up best i could by eye.

 

Before spacing the rose joints:

notice the angle of the steering arms. WOW seriously out.

 

Heres what the setup looks like:

 

 

check out the corrected angle, much better:

 

I will take it for a few test drives just to make sure nothing bend/breaks or comes loose. I may have to change the size of the rod that attaches to the hub for more strength and safety but it may not need it.

very nice jimbo, let me know how the test drive goes, my ownly concern is the lateral forces on such a long extension

very nice jimbo, let me know how the test drive goes, my ownly concern is the lateral forces on such a long extension

 

Yeah thats what i have been thinking......

 

Got to see how it goes and if anything gives way.

 

No real weight is seen on the track rods, well not compared to the tension rods or lower arms. However im still thinking of alternatives.

 

Im thiking about drilling new mounting holes for the front lower inner arm joint so they mount higher and sit at a more horizontal level or even slightly tilted. I have seen this done on the Aus site. The unique zed has every suspension component joint raised either by cutting and welding or driling higher mouting holes, all this will help comabt the negatives of lowering.

OK :)

heres the changes.

 

Now using an m18 bolt which tapers into an m14, the rose joints are m18 along with the spacers, now using castle nuts with pins inside to prevent them loosening. Also have pins in the lower arm nuts :)

 

 

The steering rods and lower arms are as close to the same angle as possible by eye.

What we think now?

 

 

Next things to do are replacing the lower grade steel nuts on the lower arms with grade 8 or so which i have already just waiting to be fitted along with a stronger washer.

P.S the lower arm nuts are touching the brake guards but i can assure you they do not touch the disk EVER.

Edited September 20, 201015 yr by j1mmytt

nice work but you do realise that its the centres of the ball joints that you want to get in line, not the physical arm?

nice work but you do realise that its the centres of the ball joints that you want to get in line, not the physical arm?

 

Your very wrong, the steering arm has to be the exact same angle as the lower arm. They must be parallel. You could not be more wrong lol.

 

read this scroll down to where the diagram of the lower arm and steering arms are: http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-bumpsteer-9404-install.html

[YOUTUBE]gKJAukSZRT0[/YOUTUBE]

Ahh that could cause problems

Fair enough mate, im only trying to give some experienced advice.

[YOUTUBE]gKJAukSZRT0[/YOUTUBE]

 

Thats exactly what you dont want it to do. On a lowered zed thats what the suspension would be doing on compression due to the change of arm angles, so when turning right the left front wheel will turn outwards on compression meaning you have to turn the wheel more to get the right amount of turn you need then when the suspension decompresses you turn in too much meaning you have to keep adjusting the steering wheel, not ideal at all. Found myself constantly battling with the wheel to get it in the right direction. This mod should make a huge difference.

all im saying mate is dont assume that the centre line of the arm is parallel to the tube in the vertical plane because its not. its the centre line of the arm ie the theoretical line drawn between the centre of each ball joint that you want to be parallel to

all im saying mate is dont assume that the centre line of the arm is parallel to the tube in the vertical plane because its not. its the centre line of the arm ie the theoretical line drawn between the centre of each ball joint that you want to be parallel to

 

Draw me a diagram :)

all im saying mate is dont assume that the centre line of the arm is parallel to the tube in the vertical plane because its not. its the centre line of the arm ie the theoretical line drawn between the centre of each ball joint that you want to be parallel to

 

I'm pretty sure I follow that, although looking at the pictures, it looks in reality that the pivotal point is pretty much in line with the arm.

having said that, I can't see the inner end of the arm and have no idea what it looks like!

Best way to tell is to remove the coilovers/shocks etc, then raise and drop the hub and draw out a chart to see how much the wheel turns from full droop to full compression, you can do this with a laser attached to the front of the wheel and have it aimed straight ahead at a white wall and jot down a horizontal line and see how far it moves away from the line.

all im saying mate is dont assume that the centre line of the arm is parallel to the tube in the vertical plane because its not. its the centre line of the arm ie the theoretical line drawn between the centre of each ball joint that you want to be parallel to

 

I get what your saving and this is why it will never be perfect unless we draw out a bumpsteer chart and have it lines up with lasers. But this is the best we can do without all that fancy stuff.

I feel as if I understand the bump steer thing, particularly after Joely's video, but I don't see why lowering the car should affect it? The problem seems to me to come about by the pivot points of the steering arm and wishbones not being parallel. But that would be the same whether or not the car is lowered - the pivot points don't change, the angles of the arms will change, but not relative to each other they won't, they all move together.

I feel as if I understand the bump steer thing, particularly after Joely's video, but I don't see why lowering the car should affect it? The problem seems to me to come about by the pivot points of the steering arm and wishbones not being parallel. But that would be the same whether or not the car is lowered - the pivot points don't change, the angles of the arms will change, but not relative to each other they won't, they all move together.

 

I think the z32 has slight bumpsteer as stock and the lower the stock arms sit the more the angles become uneven, My steering arm angles were way out due to the aftermarket arms which sit at a completely different angle to stock, so mine was completely pissed causing unwanted steering on heavy cornering which was very noticable, Now the steering feels miles better and it turns in alot quicker, im going to have to add some toe in on the rear as i have too much oversteer now. Might even adjust my rear toe arms somehow to compensate with bumpsteer, but il have to work out what the rear is doing in terms of steering under compression, could end in disaster if i get it the wrong way round lol

Edited September 21, 201015 yr by j1mmytt