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misfire help needed

:confused1:i had a weird idle which upon investigation reveled i had a misfire on the drivers side front clynder. ive cleaned the injectior connection, done the screwdriver test, and it was clicking, ohmed the injector which came back with 12.9 i believe this is acceptable? ive also checked that i have a spark swapping the coil packs made no differnce and i pulled the plug and grounded it to the plenum and i got a nice fat spark. the plug itself looked normal no blackness or chunks missing etc. ive cleaned the ptu connections. all im thinking now is taht it could be the injector connector is so badly corroded its past salvage? any advice greatly recived my mot is due this week and im assuming im not gonna be passing with a misfire, due to emmisions.

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had similar problem on mine today developed a misfire swaped coil pack no difference then swapped plugs between 2 cylinders and it fired back into life not sure what caused it, only thing i can suggest is try swapping plugs if the injector is clicking it should be putting fuel into the cylinder

this may sound silly but which pary of the injector are you putting the screw driver on?

its best with a long screw driver and place on top of the plate that holds the injectors in place (should be a loud click). I had a problem with mine on sunday :(

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i used a long maybe foot to 18" on the plate on top the injector heard lots of rapid clicks they all made the same noise.

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cheers black zed i read your post earlier and repolied to it, tried swapping therough and just ran codes which came back code 55 aka alls good

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yeh been through all the injector connections its starting to do my head in im sure its summin silly/electrical

maybe a silly one but have you tried cleaning the plug on the offending cylinder? it may have a weak spark or something

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i swapped the plug for teh cyldner next door and the cyldner still doesnt fire, hence ive pretty much decided its not an issue with spark there was a good healthy spark from the plug when i checked it.im thinking its either the ptu the harness or the timing in some way. but i cant see how taht could have changed overnight

I had the same problem mate. I ended up stripping back the loom only to find that I had a break along the thin negative return that was shorting out. I still had a spark and the other things that you had tried are the same as what I had done to investigate the problem. I decided to go for the loom first as I didn't have another PTU to slave in. Hope this helps.

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osty1 was that on the spark circuit or injector circuit? and zed me up i think your right im fairly convinced that its summin of that sort its just finding out wetahter its right without replacing everything till summin helps, time is not on my side

just reading through again, have you closed the conecters up inside the green plug,

if you look at the pulg your see a litlle gap where ypu can get a very small screw driver. push them down ( not all the way) so it looks abit like a V shape.

This was the last thing i tried on mine and it worked :)

Ok maybe i didnt say injector in the last post lol

but it did take me 5hrs of headaches to find out that last bit of info

To be honest mate, i've had both. The spark issue was caused by a break in the thin wire from the coil pack back to the Ptu. Another more recent issue I resolved with the help from another forum member(alanz) was that I had a weak injector. I done the screwdriver trick, and was able to just make out that one injector, although clicking away, was not as strong as the others, and guess what it was? Yes, you got it. Another break in the loom, this time in the footwell near the ECU. From a number of ignition problems I have had in the past, I will always go for the loom first. But as you will know, electrical issues are whitemans magic, so could be a number of things. Keep us informed of progress. Tony.

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how did you trace your faults was there a method or simply a case of going over eachwire witha fine toothed comb?

I got fed up with the multimeter and decided to just open the loom up. Once I started it didn't take long to see the state of the complete loom above the engine. There was so many cracks in the insulation that it was only going to be a matter of time before I got a short. With all the clips open, the conduit removed and PVC tape bonner, I then started the prrocess of removing damaged wire and splicing in some new.

this is some advice jefftt gave me.

 

simply the cylinders effected have either a spark issue or a fuel issue, check spark with a spare plug sitting on the plenum with the coil pack pluged into it, start engine and see whats happening.

 

If no spark swap coil packs with an adjacent working one, if still no spark go back to the ptu conections.

 

Fuel injectors clean and close up connectors, listen to each one whilst moving the connector,

 

Jeff TT

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ladies and gents the non firing cylnder is firing, trouble is anopther has gone down just gonna try the same trick

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right, went for a quick drive it seems to be firing on all six now but still bogs at idle which im for the time being gonna assume is the idle control vaklve which il have to take apart and clean see if taht cures the issue. the car drove as normal as it ever did if anything it seemed faster. the turbo kicking in was like warp factor! lol i believe the virtual pint goes to zed me up for suggesting pushing the spade a little closed witha small screwdriver, it did the trick

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and the problem hasnt gone, yesterday it was a little funny on idle. so today i cleaned teh idl;e control valve connections and teh cas and ptu and water temp for teh ecu. bothe the cas and the water temp(ecu) were a bit tatty. now it well just doesnt run on its own ie some accelorator has to be applied. im gonan book the car in tomorrow with alocal jap specialist. im convinced its summin tertribly silly. but my noodles baked with it and id like them to have a good poke around and check the rest of the car over.

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